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DIY Project High flow DIY reactor - now with video

Blatant plug - I'm selling my 20" housing as I'm not going to get around to doing this any time soon 🙂

It's in the sales section for anybody who is interested 🙂
 
Well don't get rid of it yet because I am still working on a more efficient design ......



Sorry to dig up such an old thread, but I'm looking at possibly building one of these reactors, based around a 20" housing shown here: http://www.chemsoldirect.co.uk/20-clear-bowl-3-4-inc-wrench-bracket

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Did the vortex vein you created work John (@foxfish ), as I am thinking of doing the same thing. Do you think the wide 20" housing shown above will work well, or would I be better with a narrower housing so there is more water pressure pushing the CO2 around the outside of the inner outlet tube?
 
hi @foxfish Could you let me know where you got the elbow joints from connecting the filter to the 21mm pipe fittings? I am trying to search for them and having a hard time finding anything, thank you.
 
hi @foxfish Could you let me know where you got the elbow joints from connecting the filter to the 21mm pipe fittings? I am trying to search for them and having a hard time finding anything, thank you.

I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but I've just ordered these to fit standard aquarium hose to: Hosetail Male Adapter Elbow for the filter housing i have ordered.
 
Boney, you should be able to find 21.5mm elbows in any B&Q or similar store, it is just standard kitchen sink overflow pipe and very common.
The threaded fittings are also standard overflow fittings, generally used as a tank connector.
So first is a tank connector screwed in with sealing tape, then a short piece of pipe then a elbow fixed with solvent glue.
 
Thank you @Wookii and @foxfish I have looked on the Homebase and B&Q websites but not had much look... I will go and have a browse in the store at the weekend, looking at your initial pictures I couldn't figure out how it was connected. Solvent is the answer!
 
Yes solvent glue but you have to make sure you buy solvent weld pipe and fittings, in the last few years there is also a soft plastic push fit product and that is not what we want.
If you go to a B&Q ... best ask a staff member for solvent weld pipe.
To be honest I buy all my plastic from a “over the counter “ plumbing outlet.
 
This was my first thought, and I was looking through the Screwfix catalog, this seemed full of either Brass or push fit items only. Theres also a Wolseley a few miles down the road from me so I can always go there if im stuck
 
is it worth including an extra pump with this design, to help push the water through and not restrict flow?
 
I assume that’s for a salt water rig?

Yup sure is, the dimensions of the return section of the sump hosting the plumbing is around W15xD35xH40cm, so tight fit is an understatement, it’s not the final configuration, still trying to optimise it. Trying to keep 2x media reactors with 2x variable area flow meters, 2x Corrente digital flow meters, one for the return line to tank and the other for the UV, all put together with unions, ball and gate valves, crammed all in the one space, the UV is having to get hard plumbed into the RO top up section (D-D UV unit body is suitable for immersion). Trying to optimise the system for ease of maintenance and cost as that lot will run into several hundred and I don’t want to waste money by having parts left over or having to source extra because I missed something. I built it all in SketchUp, the stuff on the left of the sump is an Octo 100 skimmer and an Inovitec X-Filter 1.0 roller filter.

I’m still waiting for delivery of an AI Prime Fuge Light, so sump build on slow mo. I’m hoping it’s not in an ISO container at the bottom of the Japan Sea.

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Fingers crossed it’s arrival is imminent!

🙂
 
Hi all,

I made this reactor last weekend. Works perfectly at 80 bpm. I upped it to about 120 and I started to get a build up of co2. I'm now looking at placing a diffuser inside to see if that helps.

Can anyone recommend anything?

Thanks

I haven’t made one yet but this issue has crossed my mind. I thought of placing a powerhead in there and pointing up to agitate the water more.
 
If you watch the video on page one you can see there is no need for an extra power head, the design is based on mixing the gas and water near the top of the bottle neck.
The bubbles are being aggressively and repeatedly agitated until they beak down and dissolve.
Unfortunately, to get it working at its best does require some fiddling and adjusting, the bottle shape plays a big part in this.
 
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