Help!

[Matty123]

Always had a tank on the go since 1999 but of late I'm seriously contemplating jacking it all in and buying something simple to keep like an earthworm... my latest tank has been set up since last September where it's just caused me grief.

Could anybody suggest what is causing this algae or what ever it is please?

It's been suggested in my previous cry for help last week that it was micronutrient toxicity but since stopping my micros and just adding macros my situation has got worse and to top it all off I'm now experiencing surface scum and more brown and black deposits on plant leaves.

All my parameters are normal. I just do not understand where I could possibly going wrong

Thanks

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[rusticdr]

From the looks of it the plants in the pics don't seem to be doing well. Especially the older leaves. And the dark patches look like GSA to me. Now my advise to u is this.. do not try and fight the algae. Try and keep ur plants healthy. That s the key. I have had several types of algae hit my tank. Think except BGA I have seen it all. And I am just one year into this hobby.. so I am no Tom Barr. What I have learnt is that though ur may get a lot of help in here.. it's only u who can figure out wats exactly wrong cos u r seeing a continous picture. And it's definitely not rocket science.. break it up into these basic questions..
1. How s my light.. this is one of the key aspects of ur tank. U got to hit the right amt and duration. For example I used to switch on in the mornings for 4 hrs and nites for 3 hrs so that I get to view the tank more. But realised that some of the plants started getting string algae.. I upped the nitrates as it was suggested that it cud be nitrogen deficiency. But no change. Then the plants involved closed up their leaves in the evening and opened in the morning. It was not using the lights in the evening. Now after keeping only daytime lights.. no string algae.. excessive light or duration.. hair algae magnet..
2. Co2.. this is applicable only in high light tanks.. u just have to make sure that ur c02 is evenly distributed . Also an inline reactor is one of the best ways to get it in.
3. Flow.. Yes this is more important than ferts.. Can't stress too much on this. Distribution of nutrients co2 and avoiding build up of toxic ammonia from dead fishes or leaves.. it need not be a whirlpool in there but it shudnt be a pond either.
4. Ferts.. this is the last but it's important in lots of ways too. EI recommends excess rather than too little. However u can't go too high either as I found out. At one point even though I was dosing as per ei calculations and making weekly 50% water changes.. my nitrates and phosphates were off the charts and they burned my rotala. As soon as I brought the levels down they did recover a bit but they had been too badly damaged. U have to find the right balance of ferts and then stick to that. Ur phosphates may be a little low.
And finally even though I don't have any algae now.. I still haven't figured out why some plants r doing well while some keep dying in my tank. That's the beauty of it all. It keeps u enthralled and trying to figure things out all the time. Instead of becoming another piece of decoration it becomes ur project. And if u have had enough or don't have the time.. just go low light without co2 with plants like java fern and anubias and Moss. It's quite easy.. I have a nano 4 G like that.. without algae. Plants don't grow much but they don't die either.
That's long enough essay. All the best. Post more specs of ur tank. Let's c wat the issue is.

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[Matty123]

Many thanks for the reply it's much appreciated!

My parameters are all good including co2, flow and lighting, all of these have been assessed individually and limited to give a balance. My phosphate levels are a wee bit high at 5ppm regardless of water changes, it still goes to show this amount. I've ditched the EI method as I think it's too harsh regardless of 50% water changes each week. Im now feeding Neutro+ which is a more balanced less potent feed. I'm quite sure this is down to the EI method of an accumulation of ferts that have caused this as the deposits are a more blue/black/grey which after research and help from members on this forum point to heavy metal toxicity. Even the free flowing roots on my penny wort turn orange where as they are meant to be white, which again goes to show it's a metal in the water that's causing this. It's only the lower leaves (nearest to the substrateI that are affected). Toxicity can be mistaken for deficiencies as the visual symptoms of 2 look the same! I was going to change my substrate and start again but I think eventually it'll all leach out from the substrate in time with regular water changes. 2/3 months ago I heavily put root tabs (12+) within the substrate and think this caused the overdose and toxicity that and with the EI method caused a massive overload. Everything in life is all about learning from our mistakes and if what I'm saying is correct I've learnt! I'll keep the forum updated on any improvements but I am seeing promising signs from my polysperma which is looking more green and white and more healthier looking green veins and never had it before in those red tints on the end leaves. Apparently fast growing stems like these will 'feed out' this excess of nutrients in time.

Thanks again for your input it's great to see I aint alone!

Kind regards
Matt


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