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Help re White Spot

AquaCare Anti-fungus and White Spot from Maidenhead Aquatics worked for me. It is coloured but at the suggested dose it didn’t noticeably effect the water or stain the silicone.
Amano shrimp were unaffected, I don’t have any cherries.
 
Ady34 said:
Nightmare, I too am suffering white spot.
Is there a treatment that will not dye silicone and is shrimp safe.
Thanks for any advice.
First time in years I’ve had white spot 🙁
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Hi
Think all ich treatments available in uk will stain silicone due to composition.Metronidazole will clear the ich but I struggled to obtain it here.Do U have the option for hospital tank.
Regards Konsa
 
Konsa said:
Hi
Think all ich treatments available in uk will stain silicone due to composition.Metronidazole will clear the ich but I struggled to obtain it here.Do U have the option for hospital tank.
Regards Konsa
Click to expand...
I do however catching the fish without destroying the scape will be impossible.
I’m going to get asha exit to treat and hope the minimal silicone remains largely unaffected aesthetically.
I’m devastated that the fish are suffering, I’ve had two jump out over the last two nights and they had gone into hiding after initially being curious....I should have known something was up.
Thanks for the info.
Ady
 
goldscapes said:
AquaCare Anti-fungus and White Spot from Maidenhead Aquatics worked for me. It is coloured but at the suggested dose it didn’t noticeably effect the water or stain the silicone.
Amano shrimp were unaffected, I don’t have any cherries.
Click to expand...
Thanks goldscapes, I think I’m going to give the esha exit a go unless I can’t obtain it quickly.
 
Ady34 said:
I’m going to get asha exit to treat and hope the minimal silicone remains largely unaffected aesthetically.
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From experience it stays that way assuming you have platinum cured silicone.
Unsure what it does to PVC type hose though.

I always keep bottle of Exit and 2000 on hand Amazon is Friday right now, I think complete aquatics is next day and pro-shrimp I know is if you pay the extra but you will need to get order in soon.
 
I used esha exit and 2000 both available on Amazon. It did clear up the white spot and is recommended by many on here.
 
Stu1407 said:
I used esha exit and 2000 both available on Amazon. It did clear up the white spot and is recommended by many on here.
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Just ordered some, no one near me stocks Esha so will have to wait until Friday unfortunately. No other brands I’m confident of being shrimp safe.
Thanks for the reassurance Stu. How badly did it effect your silicone or do you have black?
 
I've used it before, and as far as I can remember it didn't stain my silicon. But just to be on the safe side, I'd dose the tank slowly and in the middle so that it's diluted properly before it comes in to contact with the silicon.
 
I've used it before, and as far as I can remember it didn't stain my silicon. But just to be on the safe side, I'd dose the tank slowly and in the middle so that it's diluted properly before it comes in to contact with the silicon.
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Good tip Tim :thumbup:
 
I always get best results with whacking the temperature up to 30 degrees for about 4 days. No chemicals or additives. I've had it twice in the year and a half ive kept fish (always from not quarantining new fish) and thankfully this worked fast both times.
 
The treatment arrived promptly yesterday (a day early), however I planned to add it this morning after a water change. When I came home from work last night the fish were much better, with much fewer spots. I thought I would carry out the water change and see how they were tonight as I know it’s a cycle disease. The fish are much better again being much more active with minimal evidence of spots. I’ve read the cycle takes 7 days at 77f, so likely a little longer in my tank at 74f. Can fish battle the disease successfully without treatment if they overcome the stress or am I just awaiting a strong return if I don’t treat? I know this seems like a pointless question as normally you would just treat to be sure but the fish are so much better, I can tell in their behaviour straight away, selfishly I don’t want to add the treatment to my tank if I can avoid it as I really would prefer not to stain the silicone in my optiwhite tank 😳:stinkyfeet:.
Also could the benefits of the chihiros device be a factor, perhaps co2 was a contributing stressor and the additional oxygen has improved conditions??.......
 
Ady34 said:
selfishly I don’t want to add the treatment to my tank if I can avoid it as I really would prefer not to stain the silicone in my optiwhite tank
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I had no problems with the silicone in my tank; just the tubing. - photo below.
Personally I would still put treatment in but that's just my opinion.


Blue silicone.jpg
 
stainless treatment:
1) do large water changes to improve water quality and remove as much of the spores you can.
2) increase temperature to the upper range of what your fish can handle, preferable 28-30 degrees Celsius. the parasite does not cope well with higher temperatures.
3) feed your fish live or good quality frozen food, to improve their overall condition and compensate for higher metabolism .

after 3 or 4 days the symptoms should be gone, and you can slowly bring your tank back to its normal temperature and routine.

always worked for me.
 
Hi
The temperature increase will have quite negative impact on the plants if it goes near 30.My buces melted and rest plants were damaged as well when I was treating my puffers for ich but my treatment went for 3-4 weeks.
Regards Konsa
 
Last ich outbreak (from newly introduced fish) I managed to get rid of by only doing large daily water changes and feeding garlic infused foods over a three week period.

Now, it could be that the improved diet of frozen and pellet food is more important here, or garlic actually does help, or both.

Anyway you cut it, the point is it’s possible to get fish through a period of ich without formaldehyde and malachite green oxalate cocktail.
 
Thanks for the replies, I will monitor the fish and treat if necessary.
 
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