sparkyweasel
Member
- Joined
- 30 Jun 2011
- Messages
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You could get a big bunch of Elodea from a pond shop; it's cheap and fast-growing to increase your plant mass. You can replace it gradually with more interesting plants as and when funds allow.
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General advice, almost ready to call it a day!
- Thread starter DaveP
- Start date
John q
Member
To be fair the ph of milk from the supermarket can be anywhere between 6.4 and 6.8.
Quote from above linked article.
"The pH of a glass of cow milk ranges from 6.4 to 6.8. Milk fresh from the cow typically has a pH between 6.5 and 6.7. The pH of milk changes over time."
Interestingly my ph meter measures Iceland milk at 6.89, maybe I need to recalibrate it. 😁
Hi @John q
Yes, the article does indicate a range of milk pH values and I was aware of this when I suggested milk as a possible reference. But, my priority was that it should be a readily-available household substance and that it was safe to use. Perhaps you'd like to suggest an alternative that falls within the pH range of the JBL test kit (6.0 - 7.6). The objective is simply to validate measurements made by the JBL test kit. Or not, as the case may be! And, please feel free to suggest an alternative method entirely.
JPC
Yes, the article does indicate a range of milk pH values and I was aware of this when I suggested milk as a possible reference. But, my priority was that it should be a readily-available household substance and that it was safe to use. Perhaps you'd like to suggest an alternative that falls within the pH range of the JBL test kit (6.0 - 7.6). The objective is simply to validate measurements made by the JBL test kit. Or not, as the case may be! And, please feel free to suggest an alternative method entirely.
JPC
John q
Member
Apologies if my post came across in a mocking fashion @jaypeecee that wasn't my intention. I mentioned the possible pH range merely to inform the op that a definite 6.6 wasn't set in stone.
For what it's worth I think you've suggested a good way to determine if the jbl test is "good enough" for our purposes, if its somewhere near 6.4 ~ 6.8, and as long as it gets repeatable readings, then its good enough for our needs.
BTW, I genuinely think I need to recalibrate my ph meter, that wasn't a joke.
Hi @John q
Another option is saliva! I don't think I'd get very far suggesting this to NIST* but, according to Wikipedia, "Saliva maintains the pH of the mouth. Saliva is supersaturated with various ions. Certain salivary proteins prevent precipitation, which would form salts. These ions act as a buffer, keeping the acidity of the mouth within a certain range, typically pH 6.2–7.4."
* NIST = National Institute of Standards and Technology
JPC
Another option is saliva! I don't think I'd get very far suggesting this to NIST* but, according to Wikipedia, "Saliva maintains the pH of the mouth. Saliva is supersaturated with various ions. Certain salivary proteins prevent precipitation, which would form salts. These ions act as a buffer, keeping the acidity of the mouth within a certain range, typically pH 6.2–7.4."
* NIST = National Institute of Standards and Technology
JPC
Hi @John q
No problem. I didn't interpret your reply as being in a mocking fashion. All is well.
JPC
DaveP
Member
Thanks! I couldn't find my old PH kit, so all I've got is the tester as part of my bigger test kit, which only measures to 0.5 PH increments. So I need to get the one you recommended.
I tested, and it looks like the PH is 7.5 pre-gas and 6.5 by the time lights come on, but of course the accuracy isn't going to be 100% with my kit, but at least I can see a reasonable change.
DaveP
Member
Thanks for everyone who has responded, I'm really impressed with the warmth and helfulness of this community!
I'm going to follow the advice on light, CO2 and Ferts - and of course my maintenance practices, which have been chucking organics everywhere in the tank!
I have a few questions from the advice given:
1. Will the BBA go away after a while of following the new advice, or do I need to take out all the hardscape and nuke it with Hydrogen Peroxide or similar and replace?
2. What light intensity do you advise I should use? i've dropped to 50% (and some of the fish are out more rather than hiding in the shade), so I go down more than that?
3. Should the CO2 stay at a 1 PH drop regardless of light intensity?
4. Should the ferts drop if light is lower - presumably that will give slower growth?
5. In the past I've found that flow in some areas suffers when there's more plant mass due to stem plants growing up and taking lots of space (like my rotala is doing now), any advice/insight into this? I think my flow is really good in 70% of the tank, but not sure about the rest.
Thanks!
I'm going to follow the advice on light, CO2 and Ferts - and of course my maintenance practices, which have been chucking organics everywhere in the tank!
I have a few questions from the advice given:
1. Will the BBA go away after a while of following the new advice, or do I need to take out all the hardscape and nuke it with Hydrogen Peroxide or similar and replace?
2. What light intensity do you advise I should use? i've dropped to 50% (and some of the fish are out more rather than hiding in the shade), so I go down more than that?
3. Should the CO2 stay at a 1 PH drop regardless of light intensity?
4. Should the ferts drop if light is lower - presumably that will give slower growth?
5. In the past I've found that flow in some areas suffers when there's more plant mass due to stem plants growing up and taking lots of space (like my rotala is doing now), any advice/insight into this? I think my flow is really good in 70% of the tank, but not sure about the rest.
Thanks!
Wookii
Member
It will recede on its own, but it can be very persistent and take a long time even if it is no longer growing. I personally prefer to mist it with some Excel to give it the final kick in the nuts! Just turn the filter off, and use a syringe to mist the CO2 over the affected areas. Leave the filter off for a further 15 minutes, then turn it back on again. The BBA should turn pink after a while, and then start to break down. Any shrimp you add will feast on it in short order. Don't exceed the recommend tank dose of Excel with the amount you mist over the BBA, and don't worry if that means its not enough to treat all areas on day one. Do one area one day, wait two days for the Excel to break down, and then treat the next area, and so on.
Its difficult to know for sure, you'll have to play it by ear - I would have thought 40-50% to start with and see how it goes.
No, definitely not. The lower light may slow growth, but you still want to ensure an excess of ferts, so don't mess with that so its a variable you don't have to think about for now.
You may need to experiment with filter inlet and outlet placement to maximise flow. Adding a stream pump or skimmer can help with deadspots.
DaveP
Member
Thanks!! I'll get on with it and hopefully will have some results to show before too long!
DaveP
Member
I had a JBL test kits, but it was used for an old tank (not much planted) a few years ago and I can't find it now.
The test kit I use is an NT Labs Multi test kit - it has a broad range PH 6-9 test in 0.5 increments.
seedoubleyou
Member
I’m just playing with you mate.
I don’t think a JBL test kit will work to measure the PH of milk, so it wouldn’t be a valid test.
My initial comment was based of having no faith in liquid test kits that require you to make a comparison between colours.
I think as hobbyist we end up cheating ourselves into seeing what we want to see.
seedoubleyou
Member
They make PH probes specifically for testing the PH of milk, your hobbyist probe wouldn’t work in that instance.
It would be like using a refractometer for measuring the specific gravity of water, to measure the specific gravity of honey.
It would be like using a refractometer for measuring the specific gravity of water, to measure the specific gravity of honey.
Fun, isn't it?
And you may be correct. But, it was at least worth suggesting.
It is true that comparing colours is not ideal but I'd rather have a ballpark figure than no figure at all.
JPC
John q
Member
Works for me, sometimes you have to question who's being told what by whom. Most cheese makers use test strips to determine when then milk is ready to "be turned in to cheese", folks that breed horses know when they're about to foal with ph test kits, or strips, and we worry our "test kits" are inaccurate.... makes you wonder how important a test kit is? I always find trying it before passing judgment. @seedoubleyou what reading do you get in milk with your ph probe?
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seedoubleyou
Member
I don’t think you’ve understood the point I’m making mate.
I don’t use any test kits. I don’t trust any of them and I don’t trust myself with them.
It’s far more effective to observe the health of your tank and make subtle changes as and when required.
Also does your point even confirm the accuracy of a PH test or does it just indicate a change that then indicates whether a milk is ready for cheese or a horse is about to drop?
John q
Member
