Garuf
Member
Ooo she's a beauty, I threw a disk in my back last winter so I'm thinking about getting straight risers, how are you finding them?
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For Dave and supercoloey :-)
- Thread starter Mark Evans
- Start date
Thanks 🙂
Love them. I had aero bars before (bullhorns), but they hurt my wrists. Super comfortable ride now! Though I would appreciate drops when the wind is high, but I just duck down and look funny instead 😉 Just fitted some Crud Road Racers with all this rain. Tight clearances!
Love them. I had aero bars before (bullhorns), but they hurt my wrists. Super comfortable ride now! Though I would appreciate drops when the wind is high, but I just duck down and look funny instead 😉 Just fitted some Crud Road Racers with all this rain. Tight clearances!
Garuf
Member
I think right now, I'd do pretty much anything for a more comfy ride on my lower back, hunching up kills me after about 30mins in the saddle.
I had a hybrid wheel on the back till I hit a pot hole, destroyed the wheel and hub, had such a fiasco with getting a new front wheel, couldn't get a wheel, riser** that would fit properly.
**tubes
I had a hybrid wheel on the back till I hit a pot hole, destroyed the wheel and hub, had such a fiasco with getting a new front wheel, couldn't get a wheel, riser** that would fit properly.
**tubes
Yeah it took me a LONG time to get it right, (especially the right saddle), now I can ride for at least 90 mins without any discomfort whatsoever 😀 my wheels are pretty bomb proof, I've smashed through potholes so hard I was convinced the wheel was caved in, but not even a scratch 🙂 riser bars are also good for hopping over potholes and curbs too.
Garuf
Member
Yeah I could do with them! Mine was built as a long distance bike so hopping was never on the agenda, as almost killing the wheels trying to hop up the curb aside my house proved.
Oh my god seats, the one that I had on in it originally was SO comfy, I snapped it recently however and now I'm on a cheap one, I fancy a velo orange but I'm not sure I dare part with the money.
Oh my god seats, the one that I had on in it originally was SO comfy, I snapped it recently however and now I'm on a cheap one, I fancy a velo orange but I'm not sure I dare part with the money.
Yeah they are a bit pricey. Mine's a San Selle Marco Regal Titanium, you can get a replica here:
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopmisc.html
I woulda bought that if I knew about it before hand!
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopmisc.html
I woulda bought that if I knew about it before hand!
Garuf
Member
That's nice that, I think I know where my loan will be going.
I'll tell you what the weirdest thing is after not riding for like 3 years, not being able to see anything more than 12 feet ahead of the bars without getting neck ache. I don't remember how I did it haha.
I'll tell you what the weirdest thing is after not riding for like 3 years, not being able to see anything more than 12 feet ahead of the bars without getting neck ache. I don't remember how I did it haha.
GreenNeedle
Member
Old picture here. Wheels are now Mavic Ksyrium ES Speciale with Yellow Michelin Pro Race.
Just bought some Schwalbe Ultremo R1 yellow. They look the DBs, supposed to be super fast. Will have to see how quick they cut and wear though.
addle is a Selle SLR carbon suppose to be 115g but I measured it at 129g. Still most saddles are in the 300g region at least 🙂
Will post up some new pics after
Garuf - It's more likely the postitioning than the actual saddle. The saddle can make your bum hurt but if its your back then its the riding position. Silly things like length of pedal cranks, length of bar stem, height of stem, saddle etc.
On mine I have a little frame and to counter that I have 40mm spacers below my headset to lift the bars up, then a 120cm stem which pushes the bars forward a little more than usual. The saddle is up pretty high and then towards the back on the rails 🙂
The carbon bars and seatpost help reduce any vibrations too.
AC
Just bought some Schwalbe Ultremo R1 yellow. They look the DBs, supposed to be super fast. Will have to see how quick they cut and wear though.
addle is a Selle SLR carbon suppose to be 115g but I measured it at 129g. Still most saddles are in the 300g region at least 🙂
Will post up some new pics after
Garuf - It's more likely the postitioning than the actual saddle. The saddle can make your bum hurt but if its your back then its the riding position. Silly things like length of pedal cranks, length of bar stem, height of stem, saddle etc.
On mine I have a little frame and to counter that I have 40mm spacers below my headset to lift the bars up, then a 120cm stem which pushes the bars forward a little more than usual. The saddle is up pretty high and then towards the back on the rails 🙂
The carbon bars and seatpost help reduce any vibrations too.
AC
Garuf
Member
Hmm, I'll have to have a look and see, I was planning on riding her about for a month or so and seeing if it's just me rediscovering unused muscles. I really can't get used to the not being able to see where you're going thing though, neck ache is the worst sort of ache, do you think a taller headset would help with that?
GreenNeedle
Member
To be honest Garuf on the older Bikes there aren't a huge amount of options without spending money. That of course means that you may as well get a more modern second hand bike than spend that money. lol
Looking at your picture Your front steering is the old style of a threaded set of forks which are seperated from the stem. The stem looks like the old swan neck style and is therefore pretty fixed. It then tightens up via the screw and wedge inside the steerer.
If you look at mine and the other posters our forks go through the frame and out the top, then the stem is clamped directly onto the 'steerer' We can therefore choose shorter or longer stems to push the bars forward or bring them closer.
I may have referred to headset earlier but all the headset is really are the cups that hold the bearings on the frame part where the forks go through.
One thing that I can't see. Maybe seceptive because the angle you've got your bike leaned at is the saddle. Most people 'tilt' the saddle up at the front. I used to years ago too but like this hobby researched a lot.
If you notice mine and the posters above we have our saddles perfectly level or very very slightly up.
If you put yours level then you will know if the sadlle is in the right place on its rails from if you keep having to move your bum backwards or forwards. You just move the saddle to where your bum keeps ending up 🙂
Thats one of the joys of modern (good quality) bike is that the way they are setup these days means you can alter things sooo much easier. The real top end bikes you go and get fitted up. The shop then gets the applicable frame and all the things like pedal cranks, stems, bar widths, saddel heights and set are all worked out before fitting. lol.
Personally I would get something second hand. You can pick up a £1000 bike for £300ish on ebay if you collect and then it is infintely better than any new £300 bike. plus what you take off is saleable and therefore you can part fund all the upgrades 🙂
So for you to get yours set up properly, you would need a new headset, new forks, new stem Maybe around the £100 second hand region BUT hard to find because I think your frame will be threaded for the forks and therefore can't use a modern style set of forks!!!
AC
AC
Looking at your picture Your front steering is the old style of a threaded set of forks which are seperated from the stem. The stem looks like the old swan neck style and is therefore pretty fixed. It then tightens up via the screw and wedge inside the steerer.
If you look at mine and the other posters our forks go through the frame and out the top, then the stem is clamped directly onto the 'steerer' We can therefore choose shorter or longer stems to push the bars forward or bring them closer.
I may have referred to headset earlier but all the headset is really are the cups that hold the bearings on the frame part where the forks go through.
One thing that I can't see. Maybe seceptive because the angle you've got your bike leaned at is the saddle. Most people 'tilt' the saddle up at the front. I used to years ago too but like this hobby researched a lot.
If you notice mine and the posters above we have our saddles perfectly level or very very slightly up.
If you put yours level then you will know if the sadlle is in the right place on its rails from if you keep having to move your bum backwards or forwards. You just move the saddle to where your bum keeps ending up 🙂
Thats one of the joys of modern (good quality) bike is that the way they are setup these days means you can alter things sooo much easier. The real top end bikes you go and get fitted up. The shop then gets the applicable frame and all the things like pedal cranks, stems, bar widths, saddel heights and set are all worked out before fitting. lol.
Personally I would get something second hand. You can pick up a £1000 bike for £300ish on ebay if you collect and then it is infintely better than any new £300 bike. plus what you take off is saleable and therefore you can part fund all the upgrades 🙂
So for you to get yours set up properly, you would need a new headset, new forks, new stem Maybe around the £100 second hand region BUT hard to find because I think your frame will be threaded for the forks and therefore can't use a modern style set of forks!!!
AC
AC
GreenNeedle
Member
