I have a kitchen counter Nano that is tripping along in a state of benign neglect (just a few shrimp and snail inhabitants)
- run out of CO2 3 months back
- no water changes (just top ups for evaporation)
- no fertilizer since
It is drastically in need of a TRIM (I swear I’ll get things back in order every week
)
There is no visible algae
The Eriocaulon cinereum decided rather quickly that it was NOT going to live in a non-CO2 world
The Hydrocotyle verticillata has stuck about but is no longer bent on tank domination
The R Vietnam H’ra, H micranthemoides, and Bacopa australis (which seldom likes my Lazy Aquarist style - it’s not usually this bad in that I generally maintain some CO2, water changes and Tropica fertilizers - is thriving
) have been slow steady growers and it’s a Real Jungle in there
BUT
plants in this tank were established with small steady CO2 (recall the lazy bit? I just left it running at 1bubble per few seconds (Tropica Nano CO2 System)), regular water changes, intermittent fertilizers (Tropica Premium & Specialized as water is very soft), Tropica Powder Soil
Filter - Ehiem mini up (which is barely trickling as I’ve not done the weekly sponge clean either
)
Light - ONF Nano + (6h 50-75% intensity, 6h very low intensity (just enough for me to see the tank ... though really who would want to gaze upon this neglected plant mass for so long
)
When you’re new at this whole plant thing I suggest following a regime such as Tropica’s 90Day App (as you’ve got the Tropica Soil), it’s aimed at general success for moderate water (if your water is very hard or very soft, this presents some different challenges) and moderate effort (I think 1/3 water changes every 3rd day to start - sorry I’ve not downloaded the App and it’s no longer visible on their website without the download (at least I couldn’t find it in the usual place
))
EI is certainly cheaper in terms of fertilizer cost BUT it isn’t as simple as just pressing the toggle on that pre-mixed bottle of stuff (I choose Tropica brand as they’re in the business of growing plants, they have done extensive growth experiments before they release their products to market, and I can cover all I need with their 2 options ...)
I recommend people switch to alternate types of fertilizers once they have some (successful) plant growing experience - though if you were starting with a 500litre aquarium, I’d say just follow Zeus.
Roma 125
Aquarium dimensions ( L x W x H): 80 x 35 x 50cm
Set up your Chihiros and look at the light/shadow (empty aquarium in a dark room), if there are more shaded areas, plant your hardscape/plant scheme accordingly
Once the hardscape is in, look again at how the light fall has changed
CO2
I would always recommend using this when establishing plants - transition from emerse culture to submerse growth is so much easier for plants when there is suitable C (Carbon) available for new leaf structures
Fertilizers - I’m in the lean water column nutrients camp (pretty much the opposite of the EI folks)
This doesn’t negate the need for regular water changes, but does tend to be more forgiving
You can dose weekly, but plants do seem to prefer (smaller) daily doses
Having a nutrient rich substrate (Tropica Soil) definitely gives you more latitude re forgotten fertilizer doses
Filipe Oliveira has some thoughts and videos - he runs his tanks as “low energy” systems despite providing relatively high light, CO2 (note use of good surface skim/agitation)
I believe Aquarium Gardens is still running the most recent scape he did (workshop) following his protocols
Jurijs mit JS also discusses this “low energy” concept in some of his videos
This video tutorial from Jurijs (and Florian) demonstrates planting technique with (mostly) 1-2-Grow type plants
(and I love the hardscape)
First 1-2 Months - depending on plant choices and plant quality, more/less frequent water changes are required
If you observe leaf melt/plant breakdown, the released nutrients seem able to trigger MORE melt, more algae growth, so general rule is water change, water change AND physical removal of damaged leafs, visible algae
Once tank is established, you can begin playing with options to slow growth etc (but be prepared for some Plant Revolt)
Livestock - for a low maintenance tank, make sure you have a good clean up crew in place, eg, Clithon sp snails, shrimp (not japonica if you go for a sand path
), maybe Otocinclus
Generally lower bioload is suggested if you’re looking to do fewer/smaller water changes
Don’t add Corydoras or other substrate sifters until plant’s are well established (especially if you use 1-2-Grow type “baby” plants as they are easily uprooted and stems and leafs are delicate)
Wait until tank is established before adding the bulk of your livestock