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EI daily methods or PMDD + PO4

plantbrain said:
This is an example of EI for a 12 week supply for a 20 gallon tank for those with teaspoon adversion.

To 1 liter of DI water add:

60 grams KNO3
10 grams of KH2PO4
25 grams of GH booster

Add 5 mls daily.
Add TMG at 2.5 mls daily.

That's it.
As always, focus more on CO2.
That makes or breaks results more than anything else.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Click to expand...

Sorry if i am starting back at the beginning but can I please ask a few questions.....
What is TMG?
Will there still be a 50% weekly water change?
If I dont add the GH booster will the mix ratios still be the same for the other two powders & will it be OK to admit the GH?
 
Tropica Master grow = TMG, now renamed to Aquatic plant nutrition traces.
Same thing.

The goal of many is less % or frequency for WC's.
To do this, we start at a some non limiting value, say EI.

We slowly and progressively reduce the % dosing every 2 weeks till we see a negative response, yellowing or leaves, algae presence etc.

Then raise the dosing back up to the next higher level the prior week before.
This should be about the min amount needed to dose and keep things good for that particularly tank.

It requires that you look at the aquarium and adjust accordingly.
You should do this no matter what method anyone uses.
Common sense.

There's no perfect method that will adjust to every tank.
Aquarist need to take responsibility and use good judgment
Some seem to skirt this or gloss over it when promoting "their method".
EI nor any method is meant to be followed strictly.
You can and should adjust things to see what effects they often have and then discuss those observations.

So if reduced water changes is the goal, and you want not too little, watch the plants, and not too much: slowly reduce down till you have a response then bump it back up, you should be able to do once a month water changes say 30-60% without much issue.

You can also do this method even easier with less plant issues if you use a rich sediment like ADA AS or worm castings etc.

That way even if you run too lean in the water, there's a back up in the sediment.
ANYONE wanting reduced water changes should use soils/rich sediment types.

Also, if the goal is reduced WC's and less labor, why bother with daily dosing at all?
Reduce the light and then dose 1-2x a week, add plenty of fish etc, rich sediments.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 
keymaker said:
I just made an Excel File that can be easily used to calculate the all-in-one solution dosing quantities needed to comply with the EI range of nutrients. The chart can be customized to any regime of water changes and can be used to mix a solution with dry ferts.

I used fert amounts from the DIY TPN+ solution published on James' site and NO3 data from my water company (the others are still missing). The molecular weights calculation is based on James' dosing calculator.

Big thanks to James, and to Mark for giving me the initial calculation method. As Mark rightly pointed out, this calculation does not include the amounts used by plants and assumes there is no other source of nutrients. It should be used as a guide only.

If you see anything that could or should be modified, please let me know, and I'll edit this post accordingly!!!

Download with confidence - No Viruses! (I made it under Mac OSX !) 🙂

screencapturejh9.png


http://akvarisztika.budapet.hu/dosing_calculator.xls
Click to expand...


Hi,

I like the calc well made 😀

I have one question, i thought to get dgh/dkh from mg/l or ppm you divide by 17.9. I think you have set it divide by 10

Is this correct
 
Folks make EI way to complicated :lol:

Add ferts, be done with it. focus on CO2, lower light, then the real goal .........gardening.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
hi not sure if to add a question here but here it goes.

i have just started using co2 and wanted to know if i should use something like this http://www.aquariumplantfood.co.uk/spec ... 250ml.html

or should i do this EI daily method? the only reason i ask is i am a beginner and reading the first page or so i don't really understand the ingredients or where to get them etc where as the fertilizers i listed above is already made and cant really go wrong, but i want the best option and obviously value for money.

i have a 125ltr tank
2 x 40w 4' t8 tubes 7hrs a day
co2 running through a atomizer on my fluval 205 external
28 degrees
sand substrate with plant tabs

now i have a breeding pair of discus so cant have any form of dosing effecting these.
 
You can get them at the various vendors here, AE (Aquaessentials etc) sells them........just ask them.

Seems intimidating initially, after a couple of times, it's like "making" cereal.
 
if you go to the APFUK section and ask Jonny (the owner) the same question he should be able to help. His ferts are getting good reports, but are a bit more expensive than mixing your own, but they are ready to use straight from the packet. Hope this helps, Matt
 
Does someone have the calc meantioned in the link? It seems broken, and im unable to download it.
 
keymaker said:
I just made an Excel File that can be easily used to calculate the all-in-one solution dosing quantities needed to comply with the EI range of nutrients. The chart can be customized to any regime of water changes and can be used to mix a solution with dry ferts.

I used fert amounts from the DIY TPN+ solution published on James' site and NO3 data from my water company (the others are still missing). The molecular weights calculation is based on James' dosing calculator.

Big thanks to James, and to Mark for giving me the initial calculation method. As Mark rightly pointed out, this calculation does not include the amounts used by plants and assumes there is no other source of nutrients. It should be used as a guide only.

If you see anything that could or should be modified, please let me know, and I'll edit this post accordingly!!!

Download with confidence - No Viruses! (I made it under Mac OSX !) 🙂

screencapturejh9.png


http://akvarisztika.budapet.hu/dosing_calculator.xls
Click to expand...

Nice looking calc unfortunately link not working.

Has anyone got a copy or link please?
 
I am sure these questions have been asked before and I am sorry if I am repeating this:

1. Why not dose all micros and macros together once off at the beginning of each week and avoid the x3 micros and x3 macros? Also if they react together then why not dose all macros on Monday and all micros on Tuesday and be done with it?

2. Do micros and macros react together to something unwanted?

3. Is is better to dose macros first and then micros or vice versa or doesn't matter?

Thanks and sorry once more if I repeated these questions.
 
1. Yes they do react together the phosphate reacting with iron to produce insoluble iron phosphate which precipitates out and becomes unavailable for the plants to use. So dose alternate days to prevent reaction.
2. Yes.
3. Doesn't matter.
 
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