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DIY Lid

J

JH007

New Member
Joined
23 Feb 2022
Messages
21
Location
UK
Hi all,

I'm in the process of changing the lighting on my aquarium, but it's an aquantlantis brand and i cannot find replacement lights anywhere in the UK. I'm fine to get an alternate light, my current light unit and hood / lid flaps sit together perfectly, something that won't happen with a light that sits slightly above the aquarium on the raised, slideable metal hinges.

I was contemplating taking a few cm off each flap, to allow a new light unit to fit in, but would need to cut off enough to ensure no shadows.

Or I qas wondering if something like this would work instead, and I could spare the original lid

Ash Grey S2 9642 Perspex® Frost Sheet Disc Shape | Cut To Size

Perspex® Ash Grey S2 9642. Available cut to size, bespoke shape or full 2040mm x 3040mm sheet sizes. Choose thickness from 3mm to 5mm. Cast acrylic Perspex Frosts are ideal for a wide range of uses from fabrication to design.
www.perspexsheet.uk www.perspexsheet.uk

Is this material suitable for a lid? The main reason I want one, is to reduce condensation as much as possible (which is why I like my current closed setup), and also to stop the kids throwing toys in there.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Perspex has a tendency to sag in the middle even if 5mm thick!
What length is the light unit?
What lighting system is the unit T8/T5/LED?
 
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Thanks for helping out. Regarding removing the light and replacing with another unit, I've tried to attach some photos so you can see what it looks like. The top of the silver strip is aluminum and acts as a heatsink. It's only about 5cm wide so if I could get the existing light off, I'd need to bond a new one on and there'd be some overlap where the new light would have air above it, maybe that would be ok and aid cooling? The lights I'm looking at all have heatsinks on the top, so I'd be bonding a heatsink to a heatsink, I think? It's a low tech setup so would just opt for a hygger / nicrew light, or something similar.

The current light unit is about 99cm×5.5cm including the covers that rest on the aquarium hood lip.

My light is working, it's just nearly 8 years old and isn't quite as good for plant growth as it once was.

The existing light unit has a recess that allows the flaps to stay upright, and I think it also acts as a support for the existing 2mm flaps that are quite flexible, but don't sag presumably because they re quite thin at 15cm, and have all round support.

I probably haven't explained the setup well, but have uploaded more pictures to try and illustrate. Thanks again.
 

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It's an Aquatlantis Fusion 100, it's not made anymore and has been replaced by the 'splendid' below, but they look almost identical.

www.aquatlantis.com

SPLENDID

Maravilhosos aquários de nível avançado para os entusiastas mais exigentes.
www.aquatlantis.com www.aquatlantis.com

They're a Portuguese company so spare parts are a no-go in the UK; all pond solutions were a stockist (I got it from there and they stocked replacement parts at the time) but appear to have stopped since then.

Thanks again,
 
It had had the option of water-cooling pulling aquarium water from one end to the other, but I never used it.

Those AI blades do look good, just a touch more than I was hoping to spend for a low tech setup, but they do look good!
 
JH007 said:
It had had the option of water-cooling pulling aquarium water from one end to the other, but I never used it.

Those AI blades do look good, just a touch more than I was hoping to spend for a low tech setup, but they do look good!
Click to expand...
I see!
Depends on how much you want to spend....You could purchase a Twinstar and bond it underneath the holder!
twinstareu.com

C-Line III - Twinstar EU

Twinstar european exclusive distributor website
twinstareu.com twinstareu.com
 
Here's what happens if I simulate having a new light that doesn't have the support for the stock hood flaps, as you can see it majorly sags. So means that it might be easier to tried to remove the existing light and replace it, by bonding a new strip to the existing aluminium bar? Just not sure how strong that wold be, and if there'd be any cooling issues? Would hate for the bonding to fail and the light to drop away from the silver bar and land in the water.

Thanks again
 

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JH007 said:
Here's what happens if I simulate having a new light that doesn't have the support for the stock hood flaps, as you can see it majorly sags. So means that it might be easier to tried to remove the existing light and replace it, by bonding a new strip to the existing aluminium bar? Just not sure how strong that wold be, and if there'd be any cooling issues? Would hate for the bonding to fail and the light to drop away from the silver bar and land in the water.

Thanks again
Click to expand...
Strangely enough....I've dropped a Twinstar in the aquarium twice with no issues other than a light full of water!
I did a hack in this thread!
www.ukaps.org

Hagen Fluval Flex Aquarium 34 Litre, hood light quick hack!

Hi Team As we all know the lighting unit in the hood is not up too much. In my case I think the one in my hood is nearing its end of life as the Blue LED will not switch off sometimes. Ive started rescaping this aquarium "more on that later"...therefore this was a ideal time to fit a new light...
www.ukaps.org
 
Thanks for that, I'll have a read now. Did you find any cooling issues bonding a heatsink onto another surface?

I think the twinstars or the AI blade will be a purchase when I convert the aquarium to a high tech setup when I have a bit more time. For now I was wondering if something like the below would work? I only have easy stem plants and some epiphyte plants so the other lights are a bit overkill :)

Amazon product ASIN B0BG8KN9SS
Is your light bonded to the lid completely, or just in places? IE do you have airflow around the top of your twinstar?

Thanks again
 
JH007 said:
Is your light bonded to the lid completely, or just in places? IE do you have airflow around the top of your twinstar?
Click to expand...
It's bonded onto the Acrylic Door Finger Plate with just three blobs of silicone!
 
Hopefully if I remove my bulb I have a flat surface to bond the new light to, I guess I won't know till i try and take it apart!
 
JH007 said:
So is your heatsinked light unit bonded to that plate with silicon, and then the plate is attached to the hood with screws? Presumably that was because the hood of the flex is a bit curved I think? Hopefully if I remove my bulk I have a flat surface to bond the new light to, I guess I won't know till i try and take it apart!
Click to expand...
Yes, that is correct!
 
Thanks for all your help. I'll take apart the unit tomorrow to see if the above idea will work. One other option I have just thought of, would be to bond little supports intermittently onto a new light that sits flush with the tank (similar to the AI Blade), those supports would then hold up the flimsy hood flaps in theory. Though that would require me to take a couple of cm's off each flap to accommodate a wider light!
 
One of the reasons I did it that way is if the bond fails or the light fails I can remove the plate and go to plan B.
I can always remove the inside of the light and replace it with a new LED strip also if that fails.
 
JH007 said:
Thanks for all your help. I'll take apart the unit tomorrow to see if the above idea will work. One other option I have just thought of, would be to bond little supports intermittently onto a new light that sits flush with the tank (similar to the AI Blade), those supports would then hold up the flimsy hood flaps in theory. Though that would require me to take a couple of cm's off each flap to accommodate a wider light!
Click to expand...
You won't need to do that as the new light unit would sit below on the aluminum edges!
 
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