DIY LED Full Spectrum Design

[oreo57]

Can make it easy for me with the spectrum thing.These are brod terms to catch upon. If you have time would u teach me more on those terms and i don't know how to use raycal 2.0. I just thought spectrum can be changed with use of Bluetooth controllers.Bt making a light jst like Chihiros vivid with individual colored emitters is much better and light intensity that is brightness can be controlled would be better.Help me decide which one is good.These images shown is a aquarium lights made in India the with rgb leds and a Bluetooth controllers which can make colour changes and brightness change.I use this one in my aquarium.

Maybe start with the basics of "constant voltage" design.

How To Calculate and Connect LEDs in Series and Parallel - Homemade Circuit Projects

The post provides a detailed explanation regarding how to calculate LEDs connected in series and parallel using formulas and equations.

www.homemade-circuits.com

And understand the 2 ways to run leds..
Constant Voltage v.s. Constant Current LED Drivers - uPowerTek

I picked the constant voltage method because controller s are numerous and cheap..
To be honest constant current makes a lot more sense BUT a diy system can cost more than simply buying a light.

Cheap strip light controller as an example.
Can be used on any series/parallel led array that stays withing its power rated capacity..

C04W RF and Alexa Tuya WiFi RGBW LED Tape Controller

Adjust the brightness and change colors of your RGB+W led strip through mobile Tuya Smart Life APP, RF remote, and Alexa, Google Home Assistant voice speakers.

www.superlightingled.com

Maximum power is 180 watts if connected to a 12V RGBW LED strip and 360 watts if connected to a 24V RGBW LED strip.

Soo here would be , say the blue channel. White and green would be the same

Red is another story though..

I choose 200mA more for a "just because I can" situation.


Note the watt size should be 2x the recommended.
for blue 2W, for red 1W

10+16+16+16 (say red/cyan/blue/warm white ) would be total wattage for an array built on the above specs.
TOTAL power.. Led power is less due to losses in the resistors. But total is needed to make sure you do not exceed the controller specs.
In this case no problem..58 watts..
Each channel can "do" 180Watts (@24V) BUT collectively they state 360 watts.
7.5A/CH, Max 15A
Which is 90 W /channel if using 4 channels


On the blue/cyan/green, white leds 8.2 Ohms 4W resistor should get you 500mA

 

[Mortis]

Can make it easy for me with the spectrum thing.These are brod terms to catch upon. If you have time would u teach me more on those terms and i don't know how to use raycal 2.0. I just thought spectrum can be changed with use of Bluetooth controllers.Bt making a light jst like Chihiros vivid with individual colored emitters is much better and light intensity that is brightness can be controlled would be better.Help me decide which one is good.These images shown is a aquarium lights made in India the with rgb leds and a Bluetooth controllers which can make colour changes and brightness change.I use this one in my aquarium.

Sushant PM me your phone number. Ill add you to a local Aquarium group. Some people have have made DIY lights on it as well.
For your first build just try and keep it simple.

Simplist would be to use the multi chips.
RGB or rgb6500kw.
Controls color blending.
As to controllers cheapest is if you design it to be run at constant voltage not current.
That is what's used to control those 5m ribbons of LEDs ect.
Designing around it is a bit of hit and miss as to the size of the resistor.
And wiring a bunch of strings in a series/ parallel fashion is more complicated than just running large series strings.

But first decide on what your base spectrum will be. You can use this and the generic 1w
LEDs

RAYCAL

RAYCAL can perform the optical simulation of many required for coral breeding. RAYCALはサンゴ飼育に必要な多くの光学シミュレーションを行う事が可能です。

1023world.net

Digging through my old files iI found this.
Not wired but what I consider a general starting plan.. I'd probably change green to cyan.
View attachment 219745
cyan instead of green.

View attachment 219746

I was just wondering, how much of an improvement it would make to add "advanced" spectrum LEDs like IR, UV, RB, DR, cyan and amber in terms of growth ? Maybe they will trigger a different growth pattern vs an identical fixture that doesnt have these ?
I know that when we DIY our own lights, we tend to get a bit greedy in wanting the ideal growth spectrum and CRI but I guess we can still have a great tank using only W, R, G and B LEDs in whatever their standard wavelength band is.
Im also asking because in the future Im planning on an ultra overkill unnecessarily complicated fixture but it will only be limited to the standard WRBG set and dont want to have FOMO if my build lacks the extra spectrum !
Although I could add them via a separate light bar LOL
BTW I keep meaning to ask if you are JeffKroll on TPT or is that a different person

 

[oreo57]

I was just wondering, how much of an improvement it would make to add "advanced" spectrum LEDs like IR, UV, RB, DR, cyan and amber in terms of growth ? Maybe they will trigger a different growth pattern vs an identical fixture that doesnt have these ?
I know that when we DIY our own lights, we tend to get a bit greedy in wanting the ideal growth spectrum and CRI but I guess we can still have a great tank using only W, R, G and B LEDs in whatever their standard wavelength band is.
Im also asking because in the future Im planning on an ultra overkill unnecessarily complicated fixture but it will only be limited to the standard WRBG set and dont want to have FOMO if my build lacks the extra spectrum !
Although I could add them via a separate light bar LOL
BTW I keep meaning to ask if you are JeffKroll on TPT or is that a different person

Only one L ....yea that's me.
Growth for growths sake really was never an objective for me.
Generations of tanks grown under everything from incandescents to fluorescents and now led prove the currently ignored a bit " ends" of the spectrum aren't necessary.

In the terrestrial world there are differences with different spectrums for some species and some factors.
Like aromatics for taste and flavor.
In the saltwater world IR may help corals deal with high intensity par values like 3x " our" normal high UV may add some stimulation in pigment production. Neither of which seem necessary for us
Pigments can be stimulated by just intensity.
Certainly are a lot of unknowns for fw spectrum and plants.
Some stuff still holds true like using heavy blue spectrum to "stunt" height growth in some stem plants.
Main point is practically I don't see any advantage to make things that complicated but certainly wouldn't discourage it either.
Maybe there is some spectrum that would encourage flowering. Only the extremest may find out .
One thing though .It is interesting that the under water spectrum signals are somewhat the exact opposite as land based signals..
More blue/ green to red = lower light.
Unlike above water where this equals higher light

All the science is fine but prefer to think of looks and presentation as the more important aspect.
And of course balance of the 3 nutrients.
Light/CO2/ferts

 

[Mortis]

Only one L ....yea that's me.
Growth for growths sake really was never an objective for me.
Generations of tanks grown under everything from incandescents to fluorescents and now led prove the currently ignored a bit " ends" of the spectrum aren't necessary.

In the terrestrial world there are differences with different spectrums for some species and some factors.
Like aromatics for taste and flavor.
In the saltwater world IR may help corals deal with high intensity par values like 3x " our" normal high UV may add some stimulation in pigment production. Neither of which seem necessary for us
Pigments can be stimulated by just intensity.
Certainly are a lot of unknowns for fw spectrum and plants.
Some stuff still holds true like using heavy blue spectrum to "stunt" height growth in some stem plants.
Main point is practically I don't see any advantage to make things that complicated but certainly wouldn't discourage it either.
Maybe there is some spectrum that would encourage flowering. Only the extremest may find out .
One thing though .It is interesting that the under water spectrum signals are somewhat the exact opposite as land based signals..
More blue/ green to red = lower light.
Unlike above water where this equals higher light

All the science is fine but prefer to think of looks and presentation as the more important aspect.
And of course balance of the 3 nutrients.
Light/CO2/ferts

I also agree with you. The extra spectrum bits are nice to have, maybe in a small proportion but overall, plants will grow in pretty much whatever light you give them if the intensity and other growth factors are taken care of as long as the light isnt generally crap. The extra stuff is just us nerds doing nerd stuff for our own satisfaction LOL.

To me the way the tank looks under a particular light matter. It should look white and natural, maybe a bit cooler to reinforce the "water" aesthetic so 6500K to 8000K is good spot. The RGB is just to boost the saturation a bit and act as a live version of Photoshop and just enhance the way that plants look.
I absolutely detest the radioactive Blurple look that most aquarium lights have these days although most people seem to love it because it makes the plants look good even if their actual health is only decent instead of being great.

 

[Sushanth Kiran Bhat N]

Sushant PM me your phone number. Ill add you to a local Aquarium group. Some people have have made DIY lights on it as well.
For your first build just try and keep it simple.


I was just wondering, how much of an improvement it would make to add "advanced" spectrum LEDs like IR, UV, RB, DR, cyan and amber in terms of growth ? Maybe they will trigger a different growth pattern vs an identical fixture that doesnt have these ?
I know that when we DIY our own lights, we tend to get a bit greedy in wanting the ideal growth spectrum and CRI but I guess we can still have a great tank using only W, R, G and B LEDs in whatever their standard wavelength band is.
Im also asking because in the future Im planning on an ultra overkill unnecessarily complicated fixture but it will only be limited to the standard WRBG set and dont want to have FOMO if my build lacks the extra spectrum !
Although I could add them via a separate light bar LOL
BTW I keep meaning to ask if you are JeffKroll on TPT or is that a different person

I would love to be member of group you have mentioned. I don't know how to pm in this site . 8138886900 is my phone number.Any one who love help in this project can connect me.Pleased to help in making diy grow lights.

 

[Sushanth Kiran Bhat N]

Sushant PM me your phone number. Ill add you to a local Aquarium group. Some people have have made DIY lights on it as well.
For your first build just try and keep it simple.


I was just wondering, how much of an improvement it would make to add "advanced" spectrum LEDs like IR, UV, RB, DR, cyan and amber in terms of growth ? Maybe they will trigger a different growth pattern vs an identical fixture that doesnt have these ?
I know that when we DIY our own lights, we tend to get a bit greedy in wanting the ideal growth spectrum and CRI but I guess we can still have a great tank using only W, R, G and B LEDs in whatever their standard wavelength band is.
Im also asking because in the future Im planning on an ultra overkill unnecessarily complicated fixture but it will only be limited to the standard WRBG set and dont want to have FOMO if my build lacks the extra spectrum !
Although I could add them via a separate light bar LOL
BTW I keep meaning to ask if you are JeffKroll on TPT or is that a different person

sushanthkiranbhatn@gmail.com this my mail ID .

 

[Sushanth Kiran Bhat N]

Only one L ....yea that's me.
Growth for growths sake really was never an objective for me.
Generations of tanks grown under everything from incandescents to fluorescents and now led prove the currently ignored a bit " ends" of the spectrum aren't necessary.

In the terrestrial world there are differences with different spectrums for some species and some factors.
Like aromatics for taste and flavor.
In the saltwater world IR may help corals deal with high intensity par values like 3x " our" normal high UV may add some stimulation in pigment production. Neither of which seem necessary for us
Pigments can be stimulated by just intensity.
Certainly are a lot of unknowns for fw spectrum and plants.
Some stuff still holds true like using heavy blue spectrum to "stunt" height growth in some stem plants.
Main point is practically I don't see any advantage to make things that complicated but certainly wouldn't discourage it either.
Maybe there is some spectrum that would encourage flowering. Only the extremest may find out .
One thing though .It is interesting that the under water spectrum signals are somewhat the exact opposite as land based signals..
More blue/ green to red = lower light.
Unlike above water where this equals higher light

All the science is fine but prefer to think of looks and presentation as the more important aspect.
And of course balance of the 3 nutrients.
Light/CO2/ferts

I would love to contact you also bro . Kindly help with it .
As A lighting guru provide me with knowledge sushanthkiranbhatn@gmail.com this my mail ID

 

[oreo57]

I would love to contact you also bro . Kindly help with it .
As A lighting guru provide me with knowledge sushanthkiranbhatn@gmail.com this my mail ID

What do you need help with?