AverageWhiteBloke
Member
Re: DIY ADA stand, which paint??
A paint shop would use either 2K paint (2 component) which not a lot do these days due to EU emissions but is still available from paint suppliers, the second component is the hardener so when its dry its egg shell dry and doesn't easily mark. The down side of these are the contain isocyanates which is a derivative of cyanide. NOT to be sprayed without air fed masks and some form of extraction or the newer water based paints which I'm not too familiar with as I've been out the trade for a fair few years but would be very expensive I guess.
I have been looking at doing a bit of spraying again, I have my own business doing suspended ceilings, partitioning and plastering for the last fifteen years but I have space in my workshop currently being habited by my old golf vr6 highline which has been sat there for about 3 years 🙄 I'm thinking of using my old spraying equipment to do up this car and get it out and look at doing a few light cosmetic damage or restorations just as a bit of a sideline and keep my hand in. I did enjoy it but the money wasn't in it when I did it anyway, also plenty of health risks (see my previous comment on 2K) 😀
Speaking to a few of my old panel beating friends some of the aerosols you can get now are supposed to be really good used in automotive factors. They have nozzles you can adjust to get a better fan pattern so you don't get streaking or an orange peal effect but never really tried them. The beauty of this is you can look at the colour chips they match with cars by getting the colour codes and they will mix the aerosol to your chosen colour.
On a side note probably worth mentioning if you go down the route of a base colour topped with clear lacquer you would have to get the clear over pretty much as soon as it is touch dry so the lacquer solvents will eat into the base and key. If you leave it too long between the two the base colour would need keyed with a grey scotch brite pad which runs the risk of seeing the scratches under the lacquer which no amount of flatting or polishing will take out.
A paint shop would use either 2K paint (2 component) which not a lot do these days due to EU emissions but is still available from paint suppliers, the second component is the hardener so when its dry its egg shell dry and doesn't easily mark. The down side of these are the contain isocyanates which is a derivative of cyanide. NOT to be sprayed without air fed masks and some form of extraction or the newer water based paints which I'm not too familiar with as I've been out the trade for a fair few years but would be very expensive I guess.
I have been looking at doing a bit of spraying again, I have my own business doing suspended ceilings, partitioning and plastering for the last fifteen years but I have space in my workshop currently being habited by my old golf vr6 highline which has been sat there for about 3 years 🙄 I'm thinking of using my old spraying equipment to do up this car and get it out and look at doing a few light cosmetic damage or restorations just as a bit of a sideline and keep my hand in. I did enjoy it but the money wasn't in it when I did it anyway, also plenty of health risks (see my previous comment on 2K) 😀
Speaking to a few of my old panel beating friends some of the aerosols you can get now are supposed to be really good used in automotive factors. They have nozzles you can adjust to get a better fan pattern so you don't get streaking or an orange peal effect but never really tried them. The beauty of this is you can look at the colour chips they match with cars by getting the colour codes and they will mix the aerosol to your chosen colour.
On a side note probably worth mentioning if you go down the route of a base colour topped with clear lacquer you would have to get the clear over pretty much as soon as it is touch dry so the lacquer solvents will eat into the base and key. If you leave it too long between the two the base colour would need keyed with a grey scotch brite pad which runs the risk of seeing the scratches under the lacquer which no amount of flatting or polishing will take out.
All I needed to know at the time was it wasn't nice stuff. A lot of the time I was in contact with this stuff either directly of third party, from what I could make out it can also be absorbed through skin pores. H&S wasn't what it was then as it is now and very few body shops would provide the correct equipment. The compressor feeding the mask was often situated in the body shop instead of isolated in a clean environment which defeated the purpose of air fed masks. The clear plastic rip strips which were used to cover the masks were not always available and because you couldn't see because of the over spray I would often resort to using a plain charcoal filter mask which didn't cover the whole face.
would probably at the time explain when people came to me saying they didn't know how I could work in there but I couldn't even smell it any more. Just shows H&S does have a place! None of this information was made available to me at the time. Makes me wonder why such a dangerous chemical was even used at all.
