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Chlorine

S

sWozzAres

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30 Jun 2010
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231
Location
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I will be doing 50% water changes weekly. This amounts to 150 litres so I am looking for the cheapest way to remove chlorine/chloramines from the water.

Plan A is to fill up my bath tub! It doesn't get used for anything. My question is how long approximately, would it take for chlorine to evaporate. I have 2 heaters in there and a koralia pump.

Plan B is to use dechlorinator. I do this at the moment in a smaller tank but I am concerned this would be quite expensive on my new tank. Has anyone got any suggestions for doing this cheaply? I am looking at API Tap Water Conditioner which is apparently safe for fish even though the safety PDF says "Very toxic to aquatic life" !!

Any help much appreciated...
 
Thanks - Prime looks good and cheap. 25 pence per water change, I can cope with that 😉
 
I would use the dechlorinator. Leaving the water so that the chlorine evaporates will get rid of the chlorine, but if your water has chloramine then this will not be removed. The only way of removing both is to use dechlorinator.
 
Depending on how your filling the tank back up, if it's via Hose etc then you need to add the prime prior to filling and treat for the whole tabk rather than the amount going back in.
If done by buckets you can just treat each bucket Full for that amount of water.


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No, this is completely unnecessary. Treat the tank either prior to filling or during filling and be done with it.

Cheers,
 
I use similar method i use an 100ltr bin with heater and charcoal filter run that for 24hr with loads of bubbles
that will be enough to remove the chlorine but also add dechlorinator to remove chloramine

Chlorine will only remain active in water for 24hours so using loads of bubble and surface movement it will remove the chlorine but not chloramine

Unlike straight chlorine, chloramine does not produce trihalomethanes that are toxic to humans, which is why it has become much more popular than chlorine in public water supplies. Chloramine is more stable in water than chlorine and cannot be efficiently bubbled out of standing water. (Taken From http://www.petplace.com)
Click to expand...

Or you can use a pond dechlorinator like said above it more concentrated so you get more for ya buck i use a pond one only takes 5ml to treat almost 500ltrs
 
I use API tapsafe, does both and it isn't too expensive but it's much better value to get pond stuff as been mentioned
sussex_cichlids said:
I use similar method i use an 100ltr bin with heater and charcoal filter run that for 24hr with loads of bubbles
that will be enough to remove the chlorine but also add dechlorinator to remove chloramine
Click to expand...
Surly this is pointless if you're using a dechlorinator anyway..?
 
No as the water goes in the tank at right temp so there no sudden temp spikes
Also using carbon will remove some of the other things we don't test for like

  • Arsenic
    Bacteria and Viruses
    Bad Tastes & Odors
    Chlorine
    Fluoride
    Hydrogen
    Sulfide
    Heavy Metals
    Nitrates
    Radon Sediment
    Iron
    VOC's
 
Have you thought about investing in an RO unit? Would be a lot less hassle and you'd get 99.98% pure
 
I do have Ro Filter

How that easier far more work involved when using Ro

then still got to be heated to stop the temp spike

Just grab 100ltr bin fill it use a 400ltr internal filter packed with just carbon small spray bar and 300w heater 24 hrs later turn heater off remove spray bar attach hose and pump water from the bin to the tank simple no lifting heavy drums above the tank splashing water everywhere clean tidy and no stress for me or the fish
 
Yea seams everyone has there own methods

I use to breed and keep few discus so just a habit that i followed since keeping them but difference id use RO with mix of tap instead of just tap

But yea all to there own and that
 
I've found just recently that Prime can be spoiled even though Seachem say Prime doesn't expire.

I had been using Prime for a year. Then when the (250 ml) bottle was nearly bottomed out.
I switched to Sodium Thiosulphate crystals since it's so cheap and my tap was treated
with chlorine, not chloramine.

One month later, at a water change, I used Prime because I wanted to use up all the small
amount of it in the bottle. But suddently fish showed chlorine toxicity symptom
(Embers and Otos were hit hard). I had to double the dose to avert the effect.

I thought it's because there was a huge spike in chlorine in the tap.
But at the same time I felt there was something not being right. So I bought a chlorine test kit,
the cheaper type that turned yellow when there was chlorine presented.

Then came another water change. With the test kit, I then knew I had to double the dose
of Prime to clear out the chlorine in the tap.

At last, at another water change, it was clear that the Prime was really expiring.
Because this time, even higher than double dosing couldn't make the chlorine test turn clear.
It stayed as yellow as direct tap water. This also might explain the mysterious deaths of my Ember tetras
a few months back.

So I switched back to Sodium Thiosulphate. And found that just a normal dose
(capable of neutralising 1 PPM of chlorine) could clear all the chlorine out.
So the chlorine level was probably normal then.

BTW, Seachem claim Prime can neutralise 5 PPM of chlorine at normal dose.

So, keeping small amount of Prime in the bottle may accelerate degrading process?

In the future, if my tap is chloramine treated, I will buy only dry stuff (Seachem Safe perhaps)
and use it with a chlorine test kit.
 
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