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Cheap(ish) lights for a 200l lidded tank

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alex369

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I would appreciate some advice about lighting please - things seem to have come on a lot since I last looked at it !

I recently set up a low tech 200l tank (Fluval Roma). Previously I had a low tech 96l setup with a white superfish slim light inside the hood (~40w), which I have transferred over. This is fairly old (5 years +) and far too short for the new tank. I would like to keep the closed lid on the new tank (cats...) but this seems to really limit the options for lighting. I assume IP67 is the minimum I should be looking at for use where there is going to be condensation. Very few state IP ratings which makes me assume they aren't waterproof!

At the budget end of the scale there seems to be:

AQQA

hygger submersible

White only lights:
Interpet eco

Superfish scaper:

Superfish Scaper LED 112 - 93-112cm Aquarium LED Light 44W

Plant Growth Slim Line LED Light for Planted Aquarium Fish Tanks Sunset Sunrise timer Settings with Accessory (separate purchase)
www.pro-shrimp.co.uk www.pro-shrimp.co.uk

Varmhaus submersible

How much of a difference do the multiple colour lights make? I have only ever had cheap white only lights, or fluorescents.

Many thanks!

Alex
 
alex369 said:
How much of a difference do the multiple colour lights make
Click to expand...
Now that is what I call a question. I look forward to someone with a bit of physics and biochemistry responding.

As far as I can ascertain, PAR is all that really makes a measurable difference when dry plant weight is measured. I get by with cheap floodlights and the use of white semi-budget LED bar from Superfish. RBGW lights do seem to bring out the colours in fish and in a hooded tank would not annoy me, on open tanks I really don't like the disco effect if my eye catches the underside of the bar.
Fiddling/bodging/fitting light bars to branded hoods is a pain, good luck.
 
My thoughts on multiple colours are that you have the chance to adjust the light to be optically pleasing and bring out the colours of fish and plants. White only may appear to wash out the colours. As @Connswater says, PAR is the main thing, to ensure plants have sufficient light.

Depending on how much you want to spend, you may also want to to consider this light:

www.aquariumgardens.co.uk

Twinstar G-Line Waterproof LED Light 120G

TWINSTAR Light G-line beautifully enhances your aquarium environment with vivid colors, exceptional durability, and quality craftsmanship, utilizing
www.aquariumgardens.co.uk www.aquariumgardens.co.uk
 
alex369 said:
How much of a difference do the multiple colour lights make?
Click to expand...
Massive.

I just took delivery today of some 5mm clear solid Lexan polycarbonate sheet. I think polycarbonate is the answer to your woes. Make sure you order it the right size, and then epoxy an angle strip around the perimeter so that if the cat jumps onto it it will not fall in. It is tough to cut so you need to have it cut slightly shorter on the sides where your cables or pipes run. If you went with 8mm then I think a goat could jump on it and your tank would be fine. They also do a scratch resistant version. Then choose whatever lights you like. Seaoura and Hygger seem far more popular than Nicrew. I would be willing to bet that they have better light quality than the Twinstar B series, possibly the discontinued C series, but nobody I know has compared them side by side. These newer brands sure do pack a punch and have complex controllers included - just do your homework because the older models weren't that user friendly to adjust. The <Hygger with the controller on the bar> seems to get rave reviews. With the epoxy, just get a cheap tube like JB weld and lightly abrade the polycarbonate before you glue it. PVC angle strip is cheap, and I bet there are thick versions and even aluminium or brass if you like that kind of thing! Epoxy will glue virtually everything. There you go - project done. Plus you end up with a bullet proof lid, cat platform, elevated viewing angle, and the option you upgrade you lighting as you see fit. I have even seen people drill holes for hydroponic plant baskets and use two pieces with a hinge.
 
alex369 said:
I would appreciate some advice about lighting please - things seem to have come on a lot since I last looked at it !

I recently set up a low tech 200l tank (Fluval Roma). Previously I had a low tech 96l setup with a white superfish slim light inside the hood (~40w), which I have transferred over. This is fairly old (5 years +) and far too short for the new tank. I would like to keep the closed lid on the new tank (cats...) but this seems to really limit the options for lighting. I assume IP67 is the minimum I should be looking at for use where there is going to be condensation. Very few state IP ratings which makes me assume they aren't waterproof!

At the budget end of the scale there seems to be:

AQQA

hygger submersible

White only lights:
Interpet eco

Superfish scaper:

Superfish Scaper LED 112 - 93-112cm Aquarium LED Light 44W

Plant Growth Slim Line LED Light for Planted Aquarium Fish Tanks Sunset Sunrise timer Settings with Accessory (separate purchase)
www.pro-shrimp.co.uk www.pro-shrimp.co.uk

Varmhaus submersible

How much of a difference do the multiple colour lights make? I have only ever had cheap white only lights, or fluorescents.

Many thanks!

Alex
Click to expand...
The hood has room for 2 Aquasky lights afaict.
Little brother to the 3.0


Expandable:
Click to expand...

Includes space for optional 2nd LED (sold separately)
Click to expand...
 
Connswater said:
Now that is what I call a question. I look forward to someone with a bit of physics and biochemistry responding.

As far as I can ascertain, PAR is all that really makes a measurable difference when dry plant weight is measured. I get by with cheap floodlights and the use of white semi-budget LED bar from Superfish. RBGW lights do seem to bring out the colours in fish and in a hooded tank would not annoy me, on open tanks I really don't like the disco effect if my eye catches the underside of the bar.
Fiddling/bodging/fitting light bars to branded hoods is a pain, good luck.
Click to expand...
Many years ago I used to work on phytoplankton so have some familiarity with PAR, but I am rusty and have no feel for how shape "white" LEDs will produce lines up with what aquarium plants want. I too look forward to hearing more detail - this hobby certainly is a lot more scientific than most!

Changing tank meant also moving it. Previously it was in bright sunshine and I wasn't sure how much of the work the sun was doing. Certainly the Eleocharis parvula was growing better than I would have expected for a low tech setup with a cheap light. Good to know that plain white on its own would work for plants at least.

I have been in greenhouses with the pink grow lights and know what you mean about the disco effect - certainly not what you want in your living room!

Currently the actual lid is a home made bodge out of plywood so screwing stuff into it won't be a problem. I hadn't planned on this switch, but the old tank sprung a leak. Fortunately I had the spare in the loft, but everything had to be done in a big hurry without any time for planning in advance...
 
Simon Cole said:
Massive.

I just took delivery today of some 5mm clear solid Lexan polycarbonate sheet. I think polycarbonate is the answer to your woes. Make sure you order it the right size, and then epoxy an angle strip around the perimeter so that if the cat jumps onto it it will not fall in. It is tough to cut so you need to have it cut slightly shorter on the sides where your cables or pipes run. If you went with 8mm then I think a goat could jump on it and your tank would be fine. They also do a scratch resistant version. Then choose whatever lights you like. Seaoura and Hygger seem far more popular than Nicrew. I would be willing to bet that they have better light quality than the Twinstar B series, possibly the discontinued C series, but nobody I know has compared them side by side. These newer brands sure do pack a punch and have complex controllers included - just do your homework because the older models weren't that user friendly to adjust. The <Hygger with the controller on the bar> seems to get rave reviews. With the epoxy, just get a cheap tube like JB weld and lightly abrade the polycarbonate before you glue it. PVC angle strip is cheap, and I bet there are thick versions and even aluminium or brass if you like that kind of thing! Epoxy will glue virtually everything. There you go - project done. Plus you end up with a bullet proof lid, cat platform, elevated viewing angle, and the option you upgrade you lighting as you see fit. I have even seen people drill holes for hydroponic plant baskets and use two pieces with a hinge.
Click to expand...
Very interesting to hear. I would have assumed that having a sheet of anything there would cause problems with reflections etc. Having a small bit hinged would be handy with getting access for feeding. The non waterproof lights are also so much cheaper that even with the polycarbonate it would come out as less!
 
hypnogogia said:
My thoughts on multiple colours are that you have the chance to adjust the light to be optically pleasing and bring out the colours of fish and plants. White only may appear to wash out the colours. As @Connswater says, PAR is the main thing, to ensure plants have sufficient light.

Depending on how much you want to spend, you may also want to to consider this light:

www.aquariumgardens.co.uk

Twinstar G-Line Waterproof LED Light 120G

TWINSTAR Light G-line beautifully enhances your aquarium environment with vivid colors, exceptional durability, and quality craftsmanship, utilizing
www.aquariumgardens.co.uk www.aquariumgardens.co.uk
Click to expand...
Thanks. May have to save for a bit, but not impossible! It is frustrating how difficult it is to get data for side by side comparisons of the cheaper end of the market (though perhaps not surprising).
 
alex369 said:
Changing tank meant also moving it. Previously it was in bright sunshine and I wasn't sure how much of the work the sun was doing. Certainly the Eleocharis parvula was growing better than I would have expected for a low tech setup with a cheap light. Good to know that plain white on its own would work for plants at least.
Click to expand...
Funny, My 55 which now just homes an Orchid because of a deteriorating rim (making it structurally unsound) is currently getting 900 "PAR" (ppfd) due to south facing windows, low sun angle, and clear sky.
Sunlight is capable of around 2000"PAR".

Depending on your exact situation the sun does a LOT of the work.

Oh and don't over think it. you aren't growing a cash crop.. 🙂
 
alex369 said:
I would have assumed that having a sheet of anything there would cause problems with reflections etc.
Click to expand...
Well polycarbonate is unlike acrylic because it isn't particularily affected by heat or light, so the LEDs can be allowed to sit close enough so as not to cause too much of a reflection. The hinges they make are designed specifically to hold the sheets together and to provide access.
 
Since polycarbonate was mentioned I would add using the twin wall as an option.

Arguably easier to work with. than clear sheets.

Nothing wrong with tempered glass and living hinge either. 5mm or thicker. Consult an expert though.

1/4" Clear RPVC Living Hinge | U.S. Plastic Corp.

Living hinge is a continuous, coextruded thermoplastic hinge combining the toughness of RPVC wings with a polyester thermoplastic hinge m...
www.usplastic.com www.usplastic.com

Use-able on poly sheet as well. Obviously clear is best and one catch: The one I used is stiff so it doesn't fold back as well as other style hinges. YMMV.
Oh another catch is possible reflections.

So like 3 choices.
 
Hi all,
oreo57 said:
Depending on your exact situation the sun does a LOT of the work.
Click to expand...
That is the one. Sunlight is incredibly bright <"https://www.ccfg.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Conf09_PBurgess.pdf">.
oreo57 said:
Since polycarbonate was mentioned I would add using the twin wall as an option.
https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topi...-greenhouse-aquarium-lidshow-to-make-a-hinge/
Click to expand...
I <"use this">. Thin wall, but structurally rigid, and also a good insulator.

cheers Darrel
 
oreo57 said:
Funny, My 55 which now just homes an Orchid because of a deteriorating rim (making it structurally unsound) is currently getting 900 "PAR" (ppfd) due to south facing windows, low sun angle, and clear sky.
Sunlight is capable of around 2000"PAR".

Depending on your exact situation the sun does a LOT of the work.

Oh and don't over think it. you aren't growing a cash crop.. 🙂
Click to expand...
Very true about the overthinking. Being able to look stuff up is both the joy and the curse of the internet. Previously I would just have gone and bought "a light" and seen what happened. Now there are many glorious rabbit holes to go down!
 
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