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Cerges reactor - bigger sized pipes needed?

xZaiox

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31 Mar 2022
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186
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Maidstone, UK
Hi guys,

Really sorry for such a basic post, but I'm clueless with this stuff and I'm struggling to find the information that I need. Basically I'm wanting to swap to using a CO2 reactor, and it seems that the cerges reactor is possibly one of the easier ones to make. I've been reading up on it here - How To Build A Cerges Co2 Reactor

Now, from the information in the link, it seems the author has made it for a 12/16mm tubing filter (given the hose barbs), and my filter is a fluval 407 (16/22mm tubing). Am I right in assuming that I DON'T want to use the pipe reductions that the author used? I.e going from 3/4" to 1/2" pvc pipes? Am I best off sticking with only 3/4" pipes?

My understanding is that using reduced tube sizes reduces flow, and puts extra pressure on the motor head, right?

Also my filter has a rated flow rate of 1450 L/H, is this co2 reactor likely going to be compatible?
 

MartyK

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17 Apr 2022
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16
Location
USA
Yes, 3/4" would be perfect for your 407 in order to minimize restrictions.

Assuming this will be inline with the filter, you will want the reactor installed on a bypass so you can dial in how much flow goes through it. Then the flow rate of the filter doesn't matter as much because most of it may not go through the reactor (depends on tank size, CO2 target, etc.).
 

X3NiTH

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Joined
13 Apr 2014
Messages
1,559
You might want to look at using a 20 inch filter housing for a dwell time reactor, it’s what I use for 16/22 pipe work. I run mine in-line after the filter (inline Qanvee 16/22 atomiser between filter and reactor), my flow rate is around 900lph, the reactor can easily handle more flow.

7A361865-9CEA-46DC-9D21-D6FB2EB459D3.jpeg


:)
 

xZaiox

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Thread starter
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31 Mar 2022
Messages
186
Location
Maidstone, UK
@MartyK and @X3NiTH - Thank you both for your comments.
Assuming this will be inline with the filter, you will want the reactor installed on a bypass so you can dial in how much flow goes through it. Then the flow rate of the filter doesn't matter as much because most of it may not go through the reactor (depends on tank size, CO2 target, etc.).
Thanks for the confirmation on the 3/4" size being appropriate, and for your suggestion of the bypass. Looking up a co2 reactor bypass looked a bit daunting to me at first, but now I can see it's actually pretty simple, and I like that it will enable control of flow through the reactor.

I think my plan is to go with a 10" filter housing and also build that bypass. I haven't seen anyone complaining that a 10" filter housing is inadequate (yet), and I'm hoping the addition of the bypass will make that irrelevant anyway.

Where do you guys get the components from to build this? Like the pipes, connectors, hose barbs etc? I can obviously see that I can order them online, but it seems every place charges high shipping costs, so I was wondering if anywhere in particular I can go in person sells all of this?
 

hypnogogia

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6 Apr 2017
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1,215
Location
Oxfordshire
Where do you guys get the components from to build this? Like the pipes, connectors, hose barbs etc? I can obviously see that I can order them online, but it seems every place charges high shipping costs, so I was wondering if anywhere in particular I can go in person sells all of this?
 

xZaiox

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Thread starter
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31 Mar 2022
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186
Location
Maidstone, UK
Brilliant, thank you!

One final question from me - is threaded or slip piping best for this? I had planned on using threaded but upon reading into it more, it seems it may be more prone to leaks? Over on various reef forums, those guys seem pretty adamant about slip fittings being best :nailbiting: is PTFE tape on threaded connections a no-no?
 

MartyK

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17 Apr 2022
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16
Location
USA
There's no real 'best' option other than what you're comfortable with assembling and comfortable with not being able to reuse in the case of slip & solvent weld joints. I personally prefer to hard-plumb all of my systems as much as possible but this is because I already have a big tub of PVC fittings and I hate dealing with uncooperative tubing. Threaded fittings are just fine if you use a good pipe sealant or if you are careful with the PTFE tape.

I will note that Spears Mfg Co - who are one of the world's largest PVC fitting & valve manufacturers - recommended only pipe sealant and said do not use pipe tape as it can lead to the fittings cracking when overtorqued. This was for professional/engineering applications though where the pipe sizes are larger, and the grunts are less careful with the big tools they use to install things...
 

xZaiox

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Thread starter
Joined
31 Mar 2022
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186
Location
Maidstone, UK
Hey guys,

So I've ordered the water filter housing and it's now arrived. I feel confident going forward in doing the exterior connections, but I just wanted to clarify my understanding of the connection in the middle. Am I literally just using PVC pipe and solvent welding it to the middle of the interior filter housing? Or is there some sort of connector I use? I figured it was PVC solvent but I didn't want to do that and then find out I wasn't supposed to lol (again I'm clueless with this stuff :arghh:)
 

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MartyK

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17 Apr 2022
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USA
Yep, PVC solvent/cement if you want it to be permanent, silicone or a hardening pipe sealant (same stuff as for the threaded fittings) work too. I have even used silicone faucet grease for similar applications.
 
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