• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Bind hardscape

Nigel95

Nigel95

Member
Joined
5 May 2017
Messages
756
Location
The Netherlands
Hi looking for the best way to connect spiderwood with ohko stone.

First I was thinking about super glue or epoxy but this will leave marks (and I want to use the hardscape later in future again)

Thinking about to use silicon kit that is used to make aquariums. Will it work on stone and wood and is it easy removable from the hardscape?

Any other suggestions welcome.
 
Edvet said:
I dont think glueing wood ( which gets wet and will loose the gluebond) will work long time. Drilling holes and screwing would be the way to go, or using Tie-rip's or non rusting wire ( plastic, rustfree steel)
Click to expand...

In my current scape I used tie-rip's with wood and slate but unfortunately this isn't possible in my new scape.
 
I used a hot glue gun, but as Ed points out once the wood gets wet and expands the bond ain't so good. I have a few pieces that have come adrift.
Although, for me it lasted long enough to keep everything in place whilst the wood soaked; those loose pieces pretty much stay in place now anyway.
It helps if both bonding surfaces are completely free from dust and dirt and are bone dry.

P.S. it doesn't leave marks the glue just peals off.
 
Last edited:
Epoxy can do a great job iff applied correctly, also with kit you can do the same, regarding it leaving marks than you need to prepare to mask this. For this you can use grinded peat or the correct color sand, or wood chips, or take a very coarse file or sandpaper and piece of the same wood and grind it, collect what comes off. Epoxy needs many hours to cure and stays sticky a long time. When it's still wet and sticky sprinkle it with what ever material combination masks it the best. Than plant epiphytes and mosses on the joints, these will grow and attach before it ever comes loose and hold it together and give extra cover.

Actualy very simple, if you have black rock, use black sand to sprinckle in the epoxy on the rocks.. On the wood a mix of grinded peat and wood dust. Brush it in.. And you'll be surpised how natural it can look.. It's the same technique used to make artificial backgrounds for terrarium an aqauriums and using the correct materials it can look awfully realistic..
https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/423056958721601692/?lp=true
Note Epoxy needs 7 days to cure..

Unfortunately the 3th party hosting is temporarely unavailable. No idea when it comes back. But believe it or not, this pipe organ bellow
5896eebfd722f78d138a0ba115605fd6.jpg

Looks pretty darn real tree trunk once it is finished.. I wouldn't hesitate to put in my tank. :)
http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/76459-custom-tank-build-36-x24-x18.html
 
zozo said:
Looks pretty darn real tree trunk once it it finished.. I wouldn't hesitate to put in my tank. :)
Click to expand...
I'm often struck at how much scaping has in common with modelling anyway, especially diorama scapes.
 
Tim Harrison said:
I used a hot glue gun, but as Ed points out once the wood gets wet and expands the bond ain't so good. I have a few pieces that have come adrift.
Although, for me it lasted long enough to keep everything in place whilst the wood soaked; those loose pieces pretty much stay in place now anyway.
It helps if both bonding surfaces are completely free from dust and dirt and are bone dry.

P.S. it doesn't leave marks the glue just peals off.
Click to expand...

A friend of mine also had a "bad" experience with hot glue it just came off after some time.

I went to the shop and the bison silicone kit needs 4-8 days airing time which is not really handy. As when I put the wood in the tank I tie mosses to it.

What about jbl pro haru universal?
https://www.jbl.de/en/products/detail/8013/jbl-proharu-universal-200-ml

Yeah my idea was to crush dragon stone or aqua soil and sprinkle that over the glue points.

Or just glue mosses on it.
 
Check out Tec7 :)

Often used by reefers to glue coral constructions etc.. It absolute non toxic and also cures under water..
http://www.tec7.nl/nl/producten/tec7

skinning in 8 minutes, 25 minutes non sticky, full curing time 24 hours per 3mm thickness. But as said cures submersed, so no need to wait, just to know..

And do not underestimate the power of epiphytes.. ;) I got a piece of wood balancing verticaly for 3 years now with no other support than held errect by anubias and mosses.
 
zozo said:
Check out Tec7 :)

Often used by reefers to glue coral constructions etc.. It absolute non toxic and also cures under water..
http://www.tec7.nl/nl/producten/tec7

skinning in 8 minutes, 25 minutes non sticky, full curing time 24 hours per 3mm thickness. But as said cures submersed, so no need to wait, just to know..
Click to expand...

Thats a lot cheaper than jbl pro haru universal... :)
 
Nigel95 said:
product says that it is mildew resistant.
Click to expand...

The one you linked to from westdijk pondshop is the one, but i would take the transparent one.. It's a polymer product, that is different from silicone.
It's mildew resistants is a polymer propperty it doesn't need chemicals for that.

But silicon needs an additional chemical to be molt resistant, thats why we have Aquarium safe silicone and mold resistant non aquarium safe silicone.

If tec7 also commes in smaller tubes i do not know.
 
So this gives 2 choices. The tec7 100ml bottle for €7 (price in shop) or jbl universal 80ml for €13 (online) excl shipping but this one is black.

Jbl is 1 k hybrid polymer
Tec7 is ms polymer

Which polymer is better for my purpose? In terms of binding stuff and in removing the stuff (as much as possible) when rescaping?




Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top