CalRed
Member
I now use a dimmer to reduce light intensity but to be honest it seems as though the algae issues have gotten worse. Green spot on the glass and now another fine hair algae on top of the diatom algae that is on the moss.
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Algae on Christmas Moss
- Thread starter CalRed
- Start date
CalRed
Member
The blackout route is an avenue i'm willing to try so long as it has no impact on livestock and plants.
CalRed
Member
I'm almost certain it's Fragilaria on the moss.
Hi, a few thoughts... ths is what I'd do. I don't claim it to be The Answer however.
I'm not sure what light you have, but you only have 2 hours a day when its at its highest intensity, and even then it's only at 75%. Lack of light could be a factor. I'd go for a 10 minute ramp up and down and then leave at the 75% for the moment.
I can't see if there is a diffuser in the tank, or are you using a reactor? Either way your drop checker is a very dark green and some of your plants have that look of being a bit co2 starved. If your drop checker is light green at lights on then you know you've optimised co2 to its safe potential, more or less. So I'd try to do that. You already have it coming on 2 hours in advance, so you need to increase the injection rate. Do it very gradually over several days, tweaking each day, until you get light green at lights on. Keep an eye on livestock.
I'm no ferts expert, but dose as per recommended on the APF website for a high tech tank.
Do 2 water changes a week if you can. At least for a few weeks.
Giving more light, food and co2 is going to give your plants the best chance to thrive.
I'd also consider the Algexit route if you don't see improvement.
Of course all this could make it worse, but it would be my route from here.
I'm not sure what light you have, but you only have 2 hours a day when its at its highest intensity, and even then it's only at 75%. Lack of light could be a factor. I'd go for a 10 minute ramp up and down and then leave at the 75% for the moment.
I can't see if there is a diffuser in the tank, or are you using a reactor? Either way your drop checker is a very dark green and some of your plants have that look of being a bit co2 starved. If your drop checker is light green at lights on then you know you've optimised co2 to its safe potential, more or less. So I'd try to do that. You already have it coming on 2 hours in advance, so you need to increase the injection rate. Do it very gradually over several days, tweaking each day, until you get light green at lights on. Keep an eye on livestock.
I'm no ferts expert, but dose as per recommended on the APF website for a high tech tank.
Do 2 water changes a week if you can. At least for a few weeks.
Giving more light, food and co2 is going to give your plants the best chance to thrive.
I'd also consider the Algexit route if you don't see improvement.
Of course all this could make it worse, but it would be my route from here.
CalRed
Member
Thanks Kezzab. Today's water change day so i'll put all that into practice and see what happens over the coming weeks. I've probably underestimated the importance of hitting 30ppm CO2 at lights on to be honest.
I've done several blackouts recently on my tanks to deal with Spirogyra. The fish have been completely fine every time, other than hiding for a bit when it's ended (best to take the plastic off in the evening with lights out so they don't get full light until the next morning). The algae was always depleted, but not always eradicated, sometimes it needs multiple with just a few days in-between blackouts.
Edit: also the plants were all fine, the worst that happened was that my lotus stems grew very long so it isn't compact any more, other than that hardly any change.
Last edited:
CalRed
Member
Update...
Light has been set at 75% intensity for 6 hours with a 10 min ramp up and down.
CO2 has been increased to hit 30ppm at lights on.
EI dosing regime has continued (going to do a Nitrate and Phosphate test today before water change)
Algae situation hasn't changed yet but remaining patient. Next steps are to introduce another water change into the week.
One potential issue I may have found while looking into lighting is the PAR rating of my light. 269 PAR at source with a tank depth of 15 inches seems overkill?
From charts i've seen, 200 PAR (75%) is still very intense?
Maybe i've got even more room to drop the lighting?
Light has been set at 75% intensity for 6 hours with a 10 min ramp up and down.
CO2 has been increased to hit 30ppm at lights on.
EI dosing regime has continued (going to do a Nitrate and Phosphate test today before water change)
Algae situation hasn't changed yet but remaining patient. Next steps are to introduce another water change into the week.
One potential issue I may have found while looking into lighting is the PAR rating of my light. 269 PAR at source with a tank depth of 15 inches seems overkill?
From charts i've seen, 200 PAR (75%) is still very intense?
Maybe i've got even more room to drop the lighting?
Personally I would leave the light as it is for a few weeks at least, unless things take a turn for the worse. Even then with good co2 and EI dosing that lighting should note be problematic (others more expert than i may differ!).
Look for how your plants are responding, are you getting more, stronger, healthier growth over time?
Try ignoring the algae for a while and just focus on good growth.
Ive learnt patience is really weeks not days unfortunately.
Look for how your plants are responding, are you getting more, stronger, healthier growth over time?
Try ignoring the algae for a while and just focus on good growth.
Ive learnt patience is really weeks not days unfortunately.
CalRed
Member
Plant growth is ok. I have to trim every week however algae growth is relentless. We had a newcomer to the party in staghorn algae this week.
Im remaining patient, co2 is 30ppm at lights on and id say im pushing it to its limit with the dropchecker (lime green bordering yellow).
Light has remained the same and ferts are still dosed using the EI kit from Aquarium Plantfood. 15ml a day micro and macro for my 90l tank.
Ive just bought a downward facing lily pipe outlet to try and help with any potential flow issues.
Im remaining patient, co2 is 30ppm at lights on and id say im pushing it to its limit with the dropchecker (lime green bordering yellow).
Light has remained the same and ferts are still dosed using the EI kit from Aquarium Plantfood. 15ml a day micro and macro for my 90l tank.
Ive just bought a downward facing lily pipe outlet to try and help with any potential flow issues.
Fred Dulley
Member
The drop checker offers a guide but really the limitation is dictated by the tank inhabitants. If the plants and algae indicate you need more CO2 then you either need to add more CO2 or decrease light intensity. A lot of folk will adjust their injection rate to the point where the CO2 is at a level where the fish show signs of it being too high for them, then theyll back off the injection rate so they fish return to normal. They then know that is the limit.
Hi, it's been a week since you changed your light setting isnt it?
The pics Look to me like you are getting really nice new growth on a lot of plants.
But you have what looks like soft brown diatoms, staghorn and hair algae.
The diatoms should just be a phase, but Otos will often eat it. Do you have any? If not keep up the manual removal with toothbrush or what3vr.
In terms of the staghorn, is it affecting old growth or old and new? If just old id trim away the old leaves. If on new too, then look at your cleaning and water changes.
In my experience hair algae can be a nuisance once it's established. I'd give it another week and then maybe Try the Algexit route, but note that is a 4 week treatment.
More time, more growth, will start to balance the tank out.
You could reduce light but I think your plant growth looks like the light is right, at least in the pics you've posted.
The pics Look to me like you are getting really nice new growth on a lot of plants.
But you have what looks like soft brown diatoms, staghorn and hair algae.
The diatoms should just be a phase, but Otos will often eat it. Do you have any? If not keep up the manual removal with toothbrush or what3vr.
In terms of the staghorn, is it affecting old growth or old and new? If just old id trim away the old leaves. If on new too, then look at your cleaning and water changes.
In my experience hair algae can be a nuisance once it's established. I'd give it another week and then maybe Try the Algexit route, but note that is a 4 week treatment.
More time, more growth, will start to balance the tank out.
You could reduce light but I think your plant growth looks like the light is right, at least in the pics you've posted.
CalRed
Member
The plants do need regular weekly trimming to help maintain a good flow around the tank. I've just changed to a downwards pointing lily pipe to see if that makes any difference.
Big water change this evening, removing the dead leaves where staghorn algae was forming. Removed a lot of the diatoms and some green hair algae but like you say, its difficult to remove. I cleaned the trays in the biomaster which were quite dirty.
In terms of algae treatments, i'll hold out till as long as possible. I've a feeling it's going down that route if im honest, the hair algae has taken hold in the last week and with it being difficult to remove manually, that may be the only way.
I've probably got 5 Amanos left, 2 zebra nerites, 2 maybe 3 Otos and 6 corydoras in there. I thought they'd have had more of an impact on the tank but it doesn't seem as though they can keep the greenspot, diatoms and hair algae at bay.
It's probably been 2 weeks now since the lighting has been off full intensity. CO2 has been a lot more stable now and the dosing has been consistent.
Big water change this evening, removing the dead leaves where staghorn algae was forming. Removed a lot of the diatoms and some green hair algae but like you say, its difficult to remove. I cleaned the trays in the biomaster which were quite dirty.
In terms of algae treatments, i'll hold out till as long as possible. I've a feeling it's going down that route if im honest, the hair algae has taken hold in the last week and with it being difficult to remove manually, that may be the only way.
I've probably got 5 Amanos left, 2 zebra nerites, 2 maybe 3 Otos and 6 corydoras in there. I thought they'd have had more of an impact on the tank but it doesn't seem as though they can keep the greenspot, diatoms and hair algae at bay.
It's probably been 2 weeks now since the lighting has been off full intensity. CO2 has been a lot more stable now and the dosing has been consistent.
CalRed
Member
The only issue that is preventing me from pushing the CO2 further is one of my corys that seems to have started 'passing out' since i upped my co2. The rest of the fish are fine so it may be something completely unconnected but whe I use my outlet to oxygenate the water he seems to pick up. You can see him on one of the photos motionless and on his side. This happens often and then he swims off when disturbed or when i oxygenate the water.
Fred Dulley
Member
I completely understand. After all, the fish are the main reason we are in this hobby.
Perhaps increase the CO2 but raise your outlet to promote good gas/oxygen exchange. The plants will also photosynthesise more with an increase in CO2 and therefore produce more oxygen.
