What makes the TDS jump to 150?I do the water change with remineralised RO to a TDS of 130 but I top up with 'pure' RO.
I'm still in the mode of checking the TDS daily and it's stable at 150, the GH stays at 6 and the KH is negligible.
What makes the TDS jump to 150?I do the water change with remineralised RO to a TDS of 130 but I top up with 'pure' RO.
I'm still in the mode of checking the TDS daily and it's stable at 150, the GH stays at 6 and the KH is negligible.
Hi @erwin123 Congrats! The breeder I will get mine from is in the 150-160 ppm range. So 162 seems fine. Of course, your tank needs to be in the same range as well. Drip acclimate for sure - but I am sure you did that.I'm starting my cardinia journey with regular bee shrimp first (i.e. the 'normal' black striped version) as they are supposedly less sensitive than CRS (and cost a lot less, at least the low grade ones I got). When I measured the TDS of the water they came with, it was 162.
After 6 months of trying to get the CRS to breed, they now won't stop. I've put the issue down to a heater that fluctuated wildly.
Since replacing it with an Eheim thermocontrol, the temperature has remained between 21 and 21.5. The tank has new shrimplets once a week for the last 3 weeks. Stability is the key, via effective monitoring of all the relevant parameters.
sounds like some happy shrimps you have thereThey get bacter ae and a nettle/dry bloodworm/fish food/algae wafer dust I've milled down, as well as dehydrated nettle (fresh blanched when in season) a mixture of dried leaves and snowflake.