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Me neither but it sounds right. Nutrient poor habitat is usually the most diverse. Classic example is wildflower meadows. The poorer the soil the greater the species richness and diversity. Higher nutrient load often favours one or two competitive species. It’s why most folks fertilise their...

I think what’s important is a viable and species diverse inoculation community or colony. It’s not quantity that’s matters it’s quality.It’s like any community of organisms or any food web the more diverse the greater its robustness and stability and the greater its adaptability to environmental...

This is an interesting thread on the subject https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/best-filter-media.68616/page-2#post-713792

You’ll only make them ill if you’ve used them to do the washing up first. Seriously, they are a perfectly adequate and safe alternative to Gucci media.

I had one of those 😁

Video isn't showing @Misenko

Regardless of flow, looking great Well done.

I doubt it, plants grow well hydroponically. I know it was the usual excuse back in the day when folks plants didn't grow or melted. I guess an UG filter was a common element and so it, or rather water movement around the roots, got the blame...

I can't imagine the flow would be evenly distributed throughout the entire substrate. I think it will inevitably exploit channels of least resistance. Therefore, it's likely there will still be zones with different radox potential across the whole substrate. But it really depends on how porous...

Reverse flow UG filtration sounds very doable, especially with substrates like Amazonia and Tropic AS. Maybe it could be the next new planted tank innovation, as @foxfish mentions above. Maybe we just need someone brave enough to try it and lead the way. Or perhaps Gardman greenhouse shading...

Back in the day, I ran UG filters with a canister filter on a marine tank, but had it running in reverse so the water came up through the sand and the canister filtered the coarse detritus. But either way will work well, especially with plates and relatively coarse substrate like pea gravel.

That’s what I thought. Me too.

I know Vaseline wasn’t recommended for use with rubber prophylactic birth control products, for instance. But aren’t modern O-rings made of petrochemical resistant material?

I've had a few over the years. Eheim have always been the quietest and probably the most efficient; most recently the largest Eheim Ecco Pro. And even though it's getting on for 10 years old it's still going strong and very quiet.

I like Juwel biomaster filters, easy to manage and swap media out etc, plus the powerhead creates really decent flow. I've just set up a Rio 180 for my son, and for convenience added the media that came with it. But I think when it's time for a change I'll probably just use coarse sponges...

What @seedoubleyou said above, the 10x rule takes all that in to account. In addition, it also ensures adequate flow for CO2 distribution throughout the tank. However, 10x is only a guideline, albeit a relatively foolproof one, it should give the best chances of success. But folk have succeeded...

There's this The Old Drilling a Hole Trick And your old thread...;) https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/incase-a-hose-pops-off-and-floods-your-house.64541/

Like a good lawyer... never ask a question you don't already know the answer to. Unfortunately science has long since become politicised, weaponised, and hijacked by corporations pushing profit engineering agendas. Yet it still maintains a hold over folk, many of whom are educated and ought to...

No not at all. There is more than one route to success, and discussing those routes is something this forum does particularly well. I think what is generally advocated though is a tried and tested method that will hopefully provide the greatest chance of success. This especially so when it comes...

Cabomba aquatica?

@Karmicnull, beat me to it ;)

Some folk can get them to work well, I think it can depend on the power of the filter, in that they don't work so well with lower turnover filters. I think using a syringe to inject enough air in to float the skimmer properly can work...

APS filters are okay, they're reasonably well made and fairly quiet, but like most things you get what you pay for. However, APS customer service often leaves a lot to be desired, just check out the company's eBay feedback.

Welcome to UKAPS :) Maybe @Siege will be able to offer some advice too.

Oase BioMaster Thermo range spring to mind, available at Aquarium Gardens...

If you haven't already maybe get yourself a couple of Eheim double taps or the like, it makes uncoupling a filter for cleaning easy. Even single taps will help.

Not a pretty picture but this is how I've done it in quite a low height cabinet...

I tried it once, it's just more prone to getting gunged up and therefore not necessarily working as efficiently. If it helps I have both heater and atomizer on the outlet. Atomizer first and then heater.

Aside from a coarse sponge prefilter I just use Eheim Substrat Pro. It's not so important to pack your filter full of media with a planted tank; the plants do much of the work. I've used just enough to cover the bottom of the trays in the past and all has been fine. Although, I tend to use more...

The only thing I can think of is to design one yourself and use a 3D printer to manufacture it.

I'd just transfer the media. I've done it several times from main tank external filter to holding tank internal filter and back again whilst in between scapes and it works well. The denitrifying capacity of the mature media isn't changing just the container it's in. If your new filter has a...

I suppose by definition it's true in so much as the pumps energy is supposedly used to just circulate the water. But I think I get where Ed is coming from. My understanding of physics is rudimentary to say the least...but if the desired flow is greater than that generated by gravity isn't the...

It's the same with a lot of products. And it's why manufacturers sometimes won't honour the warranty if bought elsewhere in Europe or if it's a grey import. It forces consumers to buy from authorised retailers to keep the price of their products artificially inflated. The cost of a product is...

Those are two more reasons for the 10x flow rule. It's all factored in to a degree ;)

Ideally, for a high-energy injected tank, a filter that can turnover 10x the tank capacity per hour. So for a 100 litre tank you need a filter that can turn over 1000 l/hr. I think it started out as a somewhat arbitrary rule of thumb but it has since been adopted as a proven standard for growing...

To remove a lily pipe from tubing - the trick is to push it in a little bit first, that releases the seal and then it's easy to pull it out.

I think the point is that it doesn't really matter. Any CO2 corrosion related issues will be diluted to the point of insignificance, and I'm guessing you don't plan to place your tank in direct sunlight, so UV won't be an issue either. And Isn't UVc absorbed by O2 in the air and the O3 layer...

You don't need to worry about the CO2 thing for filter pipes, it doesn't matter. I use clear pipe, similar to this from Aquarium Gardens...

I tend to do mine once a month, or more if need be. Same with the filter, although that doesn't really get that bad unless I've disturbed the substrate.

Lily pipes to fit are out there, for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/291598767597?chn=ps and maybe these https://www.aquasabi.com/aquarium-filtration-in-outflow And the tubing will usually stretch a little. Just stick it in some hot water first, it will become very soft and malleable.

Sorry hoggie, didn't mean to sound dismissive :) The APS skimmer sounds pretty much like the design of the Eheim. Must admit to being a bit bugged by the power cable exiting through the bottom of the Eheim unit, a bit counter intuitive. But I guess it's easiest from the design and manufacturing...

I thought about the APS version, but over the past couple of years their customer care has left something to be desired. And reading some of the feedback on eBay the goods aren't always up to snuff either.

I've tried the Hinterfeld and the Aquascaper version and gave both up as a bad job after 10 mins of fiddling...I came to the pretty swift conclusion that, although it's a good idea in principle, niether was ever going to work properly, no matter how well designed... I bought the Eheim. It's...

I could never get mine to work properly either, so I went back to normal lily pipes and bought a Eheim Pro Skim 350 instead.

Definitely sounds like you are after a TwinStar. They were mainly developed to deal with algae. But now I think the consensus amongst us planted folk is that they are a very efficient and effective oxygen generator; extra O2 is always welcome, especially in a CO2 injected tank. Aquarium Gardens...

Pretty much, but you don't have to take my word for it, try a search, many folk have had issues with them. Hinterfelds eBay shop, aquahk-uk, should stock the normal inflow.

As for scissors get the wave ones. Or alternatively just get the spring loaded curved shaped ones. I have both and tend to use the latter more often than not. Although mine are JBL Pro Scape, so I can't comment on the quality of the Hinterfeld ones, but I'm sure they will be fine...

You'll be better off with the normal type. The jet will cause too much directional flow in a small tank without tall hardscape and plants to soften it. This will be detrimental to the health of your critters. Further, the normal outflow causes good surface agitation which is good for gas...

Failing that throw yourself down the outdoor rapids at Centre Parcs...feel the hydrodynamics ;)

Thanks willsy. Has anyone else bought the Hinterland version, and if so does it work okay?

@willsy So the one that doesn't work is from Hinterland?

That would indicate it can be used to control flow long term. Why do you ask?

I use just enough media to cover the base of each compartment, no more. You don't need a lot with a heavily planted tank and low bioload. Also, I binned the floss pad, it didn't do anything for water clarity, and it impeded flow.

Great minds think alike...:p I've used them myself in the past, they work really well.

I don't think you need to worry, I'm sure what you have already, brown or not, will still provide enough surface area for bacteria. I'd save my money and spend it on plants. They do a lot of the filtering for you. Either way there is no need to spend a load of money on expensive media, pan...

External filters usually come one of two sizes of tubing, often depending on their capacity - a) 12mm internal and 16mm external diameter, so you need a 13mm lily. b) 16mm internal and 22mm external diameter, so you need a 17mm lily.

Off gassing CO2.

I must admit, I don't really get it, he has plenty of freshwater but he's not interested, he always makes a bee-line for my tank. Maybe @Edvet can shed some light as to why?

Just like my cat Scruffy :rolleyes:

Try this thread https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/oase-biomaster-thermo-external-filter.41568/

I use them to restrict flow and so far they haven't leaked. And given the choice I'd go with Eheim as well ;)

I use the media that came with the filter, one of each type in each container. I've done away with the floss type stuff. It actually didn't make any difference to the clarity of the water and restricted flow quite considerably; I should imagine that sponge will do the same, so I wouldn't use it.

I've run a 90l high-energy tank with the Ecco Pro 300, without any problems. The 10x rule is a good guide, but I guess it's how you use available flow and how you design your scape to take flow in to account that also determines which filter you choose. You could always give the Ecco Pro a go...

Absolutely Clive, looking back I think my tank benefitted more from the surface flow and aeration my mod created in terms of gas exchange https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/maxing-co2-in-low-techs.29856/page-3#post-330177

When I started back with planted, I bought a Juwel with an internal. I modified it with Eheim tubing and pipes so the pump/powerhead discharged over the top of the filter housing and directly in to the aquarium. I got very good flow, definitely enough for a low-energy setup. You can just see it...

For filters there is a fairly large choice, depending on your budget and preference. A lot of folk with a tank that size use two filters - in your case each turning over around 1500 l/h. This gives you two inlets and outlets, one at either end of the tank. Obvious benefits are you get good flow...

Just push the lily pipe in to the hose a little further, sounds counter-intuitive but it should be easy to remove afterward.

They are reasonably good filters, and I'm sure if you buy one it will serve you well. However, if things don't go according to plan you may experience some problems with their after sales service... I can testify through personal experience that it's definitely a target area for improvement.

Yep, if you're injecting take a look at where the little CO2 bubbles go. Or some such strategy, floaty bits of sediment etc.

It's probably just caused by the build up of a biofilm as already stated...it happens to the best of us, perhaps more frequently than we'd like to admit. It's probably due to the build up of organics, for whatever reason. I get a biofilm as thick as treacle and as wrinkly as Nora Batty's...

Try this https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/surface-film.13603/

I'm with Darrel on this also...if only because I've never found it necessary to add additional ammonia in order to cycle a tank. My heavily planted dirt tanks usually cycle in a week or so. Although, I also acknowledge there are several paths to success:)

I have the atomizer before the heater and it's fine. Just make sure the heater is vertical, as per instructions, otherwise you'll probably get an airlock and eventual failure.

OK, 22mm outside diameter:rolleyes:. Good luck with the drilling...

I'm sure with that powerhouse of a filter you don't really need to worry about a few mm difference in diameter restricting flow, or damage especially since it has "Smart Pump Technology". It'll be fine.

Back in the day, I used to turn my filter off at night:eek: My fish tank was in my bedroom and the filter was noisy and kept me awake otherwise. No ill effects whatsoever... Obviously, this is a practice frowned upon nowadays tho':p But I suppose it makes sense if the dominant filter bacteria...

Seachem's guidelines say each 250 ml treats up to 1,000 L (250 US gallons) for up to six months. But some of us use much more than is required. I use the 100 ml bag version for my 60 l shallow.

In retrospect I think then you'd probably be happier with the F2...it's a matter of personal choice at the end of the day. I must admit for a tank the size of a 60P I've used lily pipes similar in size to the F2 and they're probably a better choice. Also consider the G2 the difference is the...

Well if you have a read of this http://www.calaqualabs.com/fluxus.html I suppose they would recommend the F1 since the F2 is for tanks larger than 20gals. However, the F2 would be fine too. Personally I'd go for the F1, its smaller and adds to the sense of scale. And its perhaps more flexible...

Absolutely, I agree with you on this...but by the same measure as you mention it allows for a margin of error - which could conceivably make the difference between success and failure especially for a newbie, and them staying in, or leaving the hobby...lack of flow and distribution of CO2 and...

Hi, it would help if we had a pic or two of your tank;)

o_O And yep it usually comes vacuum sealed...

It's always worked for me, check this out...http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/snails-invasion.36137/#post-395496

Good tip...pretty hard to do with lily pipes tho'

I guess it's a balancing act between minimal equipment in the tank and keeping that all important flow and distribution...most tho' seem to have two outflows and inflows in that size tank...but I suppose the type of layout and its obstructions to flow also play a part. But there are other ways...

Haha...mains conditioners/scrubbers and expensive HDMI interconnects spring to mind. It's all a bit "Emperor's New Clothes"...

Cripes...I've just got used to the idea of the Twinstar...what other uses are they going to find for electrolysis? I agree though the data set is a bit spurious. Good luck with the daphnia bioassay...that'll be a first for a LFS:geek:

Hail Hydra!...puncture one absurdity and another two inflate in its place.

The idea of a full length spray bar seems like an elegant solution - cost effective and good flow and distribution. Although, I suppose it depends on your final layout.

What turnover will your filters give you James?

I barely have any media in my canister (just enough to amply cover the base of the trays) and it still provides extremely efficient and effective filtration...what with a small bioload and large plant mass. I discovered that using floss added very little if anything to water clarity but...

Your absolutely right about Vaseline. It's not a good option for lubricating birth control prophylactics for the same reasono_O Just use a drop of washing up liquid...it's what I use and no problems so far... That is no problems with the filter etc, not with preventing extra kids.

Not entirely sure what you're after but maybe it's this - Stainless Steel Mesh Aquarium Filter Intake Guard Fish Crystal Red Shrimp Safe | eBay I believe it's the same as this http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/neutro-stainless-steel-inlet-12mm-p-6449.html though I could be wrong...

Try a forum search for acrylic pipes...Or there's always relatively cheap glassware on eBay.

I think that there are probably lots of reasons why high flow works well, some we're probably not always aware of, although I guess high flow isn't perhaps that necessary if you really know what you're doing. For instance, I reckon in the case of a fuel injected tank it's something of a...

So does a small drop of washing up liquid, if we're talking about the filter head sealing ring. Vaseline will degrade rubber and latex just like sa80mark says.

I rinse mine under a tepid mixer tap...my filter media that is...;)... ...nothings died - yet...

You can only suck it and see. If it doesn't work out you can always swap it for a spray bar later, or vice-versa.

The mind boggles...I guess multiples of very large well built filters, like Eheim and Hagen, and as Tim says powerheads. I think most filters are rated without the hindrance of media, so a lot of the time drop off is attributable to accumulation of detritus, and thereafter I suppose poor design...

I'd use the JBL with the minimum amount of media needed to support the bioload thus keeping the turn over as close to max as poss. I think it's ok to use around 5x turn over for low-energy it you've got low light, low bioload, and you're not dosing much etc, but personally I still try to stick...