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Buce Specific Nutrient Dosing

Hi Happi,

Why is that? Would you please elaborate on the reasons? Thanks

Based on our experience and feedback from other users, we encountered inconsistent results when using CSM+B. The inconsistencies stemmed from several factors:

  1. Mixing Method: Some sellers pre-mixed CSM and Boron before shipping, which may have contributed to uneven distribution.
  2. Grain Size Variation: The different particle sizes in the powder led to inconsistent compositions. For example, imagine mixing fine white powdered sugar with coarse brown sugar—one user might scoop 10 pieces of brown sugar while another scoops only 5, leading to an imbalanced mix. As a result, microelement levels varied, especially when using smaller quantities of CSM+B. This issue was somewhat mitigated when larger amounts were used to prepare solutions.
  3. Formula Modifications: Many users had to adjust the CSM+B formula to enhance its performance. For instance, I personally added MnSO₄ and DTPA Fe to improve effectiveness. Edward from PPS Pro also modified it, as documented here.
  4. Overuse Leading to Toxicity: Some users had to add excessive amounts of CSM+B to achieve desired results, which sometimes led to toxic buildup of certain micronutrients. This was likely a consequence of inconsistencies in the mix—either due to missing elements or an overabundance caused by particle size variation in the CSM+B powder.

This was true at least during those years, but I haven't used CSM+B in a decade, so I’m unsure if improvements have been made since then. In general, a finer powder formulation tends to provide a more consistent mix, whereas leaving some elements in larger grains increases the risk of uneven distribution.

Additionally, I believe there are better mixes available today for the same or a similar price, some of which may include both EDTA and DTPA, offering improved stability and effectiveness.


References:

  1. Fertilizer Consistency, Bulk Blending of Fertilizer Material: Effect of Size, Shape, and Density on Segregation
  2. CSM+B Toxicity Experiment
  3. Intelligent Substitutions: CSM+B, Microplex, Fe DTPA
  4. The unbalanced micronutrient fertilizer: CSM+B
  5. Question re. CSM+B precipitate
  6. Question on the composition of Plantex CSM + B
 
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50% KNO3 and 50% Urea is fine as well

I personally wouldn't recommend CSM+B, try to use different Micro/Fe if you can.

No need for extra potassium, it's already covered in KNO3. So what exactly does the Shrimp GH adds?
Shrimpy gh is basically just pure cal/magnesium 4:1 ratio for caridina shrimp.

Is there a recommended micro fert that's already made in powder form? Can I use something like general hydroponic micro mix.

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Shrimpy gh is basically just pure cal/magnesium 4:1 ratio for caridina shrimp.
is it this Product?
Is there a recommended micro fert that's already made in powder form? Can I use something like general hydroponic micro mix.
I wouldn't recommend that one.

I personally prefer to mix my own, but for those in the USA looking for a premixed micronutrient solution, I would recommend the plant prod chelated micronutrient mix. The one sold by GLA is the same product. I'm fairly certain that this is much superior to CSM+B.
 
is it this Product?

I wouldn't recommend that one.

I personally prefer to mix my own, but for those in the USA looking for a premixed micronutrient solution, I would recommend the plant prod chelated micronutrient mix. The one sold by GLA is the same product. I'm fairly certain that this is much superior to CSM+B.
Got it.
Everytime I would increase my lighting on these tanks I get a mix of hair algae and dust algae on the glass and a week later my plants.

So 0 algae with 8 watt led bulb.
Wildfire algae with 33 watt led light bar

Very consistent that it happens, like gravity.

I wonder if I reset my nutrient levels with some water changes and do leaner dose if I can prevent this from happening.

Buce do seem to grow larger, thicker leaves under high light so I do wanna move in that direction eventually.
 
Hi all,
Everytime I would increase my lighting on these tanks I get a mix of hair algae and dust algae on the glass and a week later my plants.

So 0 algae with 8 watt led bulb.
Wildfire algae with 33 watt led light bar
That is useful, it just means that you have <"all the nutrients"> necessary for plant growth, but plant growth is limited by PAR.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,

That is useful, it just means that you have <"all the nutrients"> necessary for plant growth, but plant growth is limited by PAR.

cheers Darrel
Yup, the main issue I just have is SPEED and Size!

These buces really do grow a lot bigger leaves with higher lighting. Just need to make sure I keep the tank algae free as possible until it matures a bit more.
 
Hello Everybody.

I just thought I would give an update.
After doing a large water change to reset nutrient levels, I started to do lean dosing.
I tried raising the lighting from an 9watt LED bulb, to a 33watt horticulture fixture. (Probably 4x the par).
They are all on a 7 hour photoperiod.

To give you an idea, my LUX meter on my phone is measuring 16307. I usually do a quick division of 47 to get a rough conversion to PAR. (Not 100% accurate but to give you an idea.).

The par on the increased lights are roughly 350 par~~ with a very even distribution.

I also did not notice much of a change in growth rate of the crypts or eriocaulons etc, but maybe they were still adapting over. I was expecting atleast a 2x increase in growth rate since the increase in par was like 4X.

I thought lean dosing would help me stop the breakout of algae that would happen whenever I did this. Didn't really seem to work.
Tank on the left got green water a week later.
Tank on the right is starting to grow a lot of hair algae on the glass, which is a sign I need to lower the lights immediately.

IMG_7123.JPG
IMG_7124.JPG

It seems high lighting is still off the table.
Instead I will clean it up a bit and go back to my little 8 watt led clamp light and a 12 hour photoperiod instead.
 
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