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Oase filter not working for three days potential issues.

Rasborakel

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Hi all, I broke the plastic nodule Re Filtosmart thermo 100 on the out part that picks up the tubing. I have had to order Oase replacement part. Unfortunately the replace took from order on the Wednesday to the Saturday. I replaced and ran the filter. I have heavily planted 55L tank, I ran an air stone during the time it was without filter and I kept the filter full of tank water. Wondering what are the potential issues if any.
 
Hi all, I broke the plastic nodule Re Filtosmart thermo 100 on the out part that picks up the tubing. I have had to order Oase replacement part. Unfortunately the replace took from order on the Wednesday to the Saturday. I replaced and ran the filter. I have heavily planted 55L tank, I ran an air stone during the time it was without filter and I kept the filter full of tank water. Wondering what are the potential issues if any.
Did you open the filter and allow the biomedia access to oxygen?
 
Thank you.

So you had around three days with no oxygen flow going through your sealed Oase unit.
  1. Can you send us a picture of your aquarium so we can get a feel for how much bio load (fish, plants) and substrate you have?
  2. Can you please advise how old the aquarium is? (i.e.. Has it been operating for one month, six months or longer etc, with these fish and plants etc).
Beneficial bacteria in canister-style filters (which are sealed units) require a little more care if they stop (@dw1305 discussed this on another thread when I had a similar question). If no flow is going through the filter, then oxygen is not getting to the filter bacteria, increasing the chances of oxygen starvation. Established bacteria are tenacious little critters that can stay alive for years without a food source and flow, but they have to have access to oxygen during that time.

Please answer points 1 and 2 above so we can better understand your aquarium. Also, in the interim, check your ammonia levels very regularly, as any ammonia spike will indicate a deficiency in the nitrification process.
 
Hi all, I broke the plastic nodule Re Filtosmart thermo 100 on the out part that picks up the tubing. I have had to order Oase replacement part. Unfortunately the replace took from order on the Wednesday to the Saturday. I replaced and ran the filter. I have heavily planted 55L tank, I ran an air stone during the time it was without filter and I kept the filter full of tank water. Wondering what are the potential issues if any.
Your tank is fine but the filter's bacterial colonies are mostly dead IMO. 3 days without flow killed most bacteria. I would simply rinse the content of that filter thoroughly with tank water and put it back to work. Bacteria will repopulate the media inside in no time. If you want to make sure all is good do an ammonia test within in the next 2 or 3 days after cleaning the filter to make sure ammonia is not spiking but I doubt that will be the case with a heavily planted tank.
 
Hi all,
and I kept the filter full of tank water.
If you are unlucky enough for this to happen again, just pour 3/4 of the water out of the canister filter, and open the taps etc. The media will remain wet and it should stop the filter becoming de-oxygenated.
Beneficial bacteria in canister-style filters (which are sealed units) require a little more care if they stop (@dw1305 discussed this on another thread when I had a similar question). If no flow is going through the filter, then oxygen is not getting to the filter bacteria, increasing the chances of oxygen starvation.
Oxygen is the thing that matters.
Your tank is fine but the filter's bacterial colonies are mostly dead IMO. 3 days without flow killed most bacteria.
It would depend a little bit on which nitrifying organisms are present, they are likely to be mainly <"COMAMMOX Nitrospira and Archaea">. The Archaea are likely to be more tolerant of low oxygen levels than the bacteria.
I would simply rinse the content of that filter thoroughly with tank water and put it back to work. Bacteria will repopulate the media inside in no time.
That would be my advice as well.

cheers Darrel
 
It would depend a little bit on which nitrifying organisms are present, they are likely to be mainly <"COMAMMOX Nitrospira and Archaea">. The Archaea are likely to be more tolerant of low oxygen levels than the bacteria.
A good test is to smell. A dead filter will stink like hell but I doubt that in 3 days they had time to produce that smell. For good measure I still think it is a good idea to clean the filter because if most bacteria are dead you could possible start pushing loads of unwated organics in the tanks.
 
Hi all,
A good test is to smell.
Yes, that is a good point.
For good measure I still think it is a good idea to clean the filter because if most bacteria are dead you could possible start pushing loads of unwated organics in the tanks.
and so is that one.

cheers Darrel
 
Thanks everyone for this. some more information - This breakage happened during water change. I had cleaned out sponges in tank water but then filled up with tap, I am in soft water area. i took the internal heater out for a time but then stupidly, as it now turns out put it back in. The tank is three months old and is a dutch style planted tank. Yes there was a noticeable smell, the wife got on to this quickly as you can imagine. Anyway after three days I put the new plastic fitting on etc and started the filter. I have done ammonia and Nitrate tests and they are spot on. It is now Monday and there is no livestock loss. I have 5 ember 4 blue neon and 4 green neon Tetras. Two Ottos, 1 Nitrite snail, about 6 Amano and 2 Cherry shrimp.
 
My advice now would be to reduce the feeding a little and not clean too heavily for a while to allow the beneficial bacteria to build up again.
 
Hi all,
The heavy stock of plants and light stock of critters is a benefit too.
That is the real key, <"the filter"> is just part of a much larger <"and more resilient"> life support system.
not clean too heavily for a while to allow the beneficial bacteria to build up again.
Good advice, but I'm guessing that @Rasborakel never got to the <"thick and sticky"> biofilm stage, but if their <"filter media was like that">? I'd probably try and rinse it before it gets like that again <"New filter - which one?">.

There is an optimum depth for biofilm, it isn't that important for us, (we have the "resilient life support system") but it is why Kaldnes type floating media is designed to <"shed excess biofilm"> and retain <"optimal aerobic nitrification rates">.

cheers Darrel
 
That's brilliant advice everyone really appreciate it. Thing I have discovered is that when placing tubing over nipple on these plastic fittings you do not want to go mad on tightening the blue screw part over the tubing. Think I was thinking well there is water being pumped here so I better really tighten it. well i now know this is an error. You should tighten until there is resistance then stop and it will still be fine intern's of leak proof. I watched some unboxing vids on Youtube and people emphasised this point, oh well we live and learn. Replacement parts were surprisingly cheap though £8.30 plus mailing. So may be worth while to buy this part in for such emergencies.
 
My Fluval 307 had a leaking issue, so sent off for replacement O ring ,which would take 3 or 4 days, I always have internal filters as a standby so transfered some of the sponges into the Fluval U4 and ran that ,also put some sponge around a small powerhead, a small sponge filter if kept in the aquarium keeps surprising amount of beneficial bacteria
 
a small sponge filter if kept in the aquarium keeps surprising amount of beneficial bacteria
Yes, is is surprising but very true! They are great little basic filters. Especially if you get ones from 20/30PPI sponge (not the 60PPI ones you seem to commonly find on Amazon).
 
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