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Understanding my water report

Richardod

Member
Joined
4 Mar 2017
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46
Location
Essex
My aquarium phosphate levels are through the roof ( according to JBL test kit ) my tap water also has extremley high phosphate levels
Looking at the attached report that I do not understand at all could anyone help with some ideas hoe best to lower the phosphate a bit as I want to upgrade my lighting without causing an algae bloom.
I have been advised by the vendors of the lighting unit I need to lower my phosphate levels first.
Any advice much appreciated
 

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Hi all,
My aquarium phosphate levels are through the roof ( according to JBL test kit ) my tap water also has extremley high phosphate levels
I have been advised by the vendors of the lighting unit I need to lower my phosphate levels first.
Just ignore it, the plants will reduce the level and it isn't really anything to worry about. That is the great thing about plants, they reduce levels of all nutrients. <"Phytoremediation of Phosphorus and Nitrogen with Canna x generalis Reeds in Domestic Wastewater through NMAMIT Constructed Wetland">*

I'm going to say that the vendor is taking an opportunity to sell you another product along with the light.

If you really want to reduce levels it is possible because phosphate (PO4---) forms a <"lot of insoluble compounds">. <"Seachem"> sell an aluminium oxide based version, which "works" if you really want to go down that route.
Looking at the attached report
Looks OK, it is going to be similar to the water that most of us in the S. and E. of England get out of our taps. It is hard and has high conductivity because it comes from a chalk aquifer. The nitrate (NO3-) level is lower than you might expect, possibly because it has been <"reduced by stripping">.

<UK Water Projects Article – UKWP Nitreat® treatment process for Anglian Water | ACWA>

*Samson O. Ojoawo, Gaddale Udayakumar, Pushparaj Naik, (2015) "Phytoremediation of Phosphorus and Nitrogen with Canna x generalis Reeds in Domestic Wastewater through NMAMIT Constructed Wetland, Aquatic Procedia, 4, pp 349-356

cheers Darrel
 
Last edited:
My aquarium phosphate levels are through the roof ( according to JBL test kit ) my tap water also has extremley high phosphate levels
I must be blind or something, as I do not actually see a phosphate or phosphorus reading on this water report.

I do see a couple of things at elevated levels that I personally wouldn't be too happy about such as sodium, chlorides and sulphates.

On the positive side you have a good amount of Mg and low Nitrate.

If you go with straight tap I would suggest plants in the easy category, fish that are not picky about hard water, and somewhat above recommended dosing using a good all-in-one fertilizer such as TNC Complete.

Cheers,
Michael
 
Hi all,
I must be blind or something, as I do not actually see a phosphate or phosphorus reading on this water report.
There normally isn't a phosphorus (P) or phosphate (PO4---) value <"on the water report">. The reasons are that there aren't any human health implications of elevated levels of phosphate in drinking water and because of this there isn't a statutory maximum permitted level and the water company can't be in breach of something that doesn't exist.

As far as I know <"all water companies in the UK add PO4---"> to their water supply, even if it is hard water. It gives them <"belt and braces">, in terms of not exceeding the limits for lead (Pb), copper (Cu) and zinc (Zn).

cheers Darrel
 
Thanks all for you replies much appreciated - I might try and dilute with some RO water and see how that goes I'm lucky in the fact I can get RO five minutes from where I live, Start off with a 50/50 mix.
Again going back to the report I dose EI with the mixture suggested on the old Aquarium plant food site would that be suitable
 
Thanks all for you replies much appreciated - I might try and dilute with some RO water and see how that goes I'm lucky in the fact I can get RO five minutes from where I live, Start off with a 50/50 mix.
How big is your tank, WC percentage and WC frequency?

Cheers,
Michael
 
190l 50% weekly
Ok, so thats 95 l/wk - if you choose to care about it, you would probably need at least 50% RO or ~50 l/wk to make a big dent in those levels. Hauling water from an external source tend to become a chore in the long run. If you have the space for it, I would recommend a small RO system.

Cheers,
Michael
 
Just ignore it, the plants will reduce the level and it isn't really anything to worry about.
Hi Darrel,
When I dose the PO4 with the fertilizer, the test results are always lower than the expected levels. How comes ? Are plants able to absorb some of it very quickly ? Or is there a chemical reaction that takes place in water with PO4 ? Can I test Po4 5 minutes after adding fertilizer or do I have to wait more ?
 
When I dose the PO4 with the fertilizer, the test results are always lower than the expected levels. How comes ? Are plants able to absorb some of it very quickly ?
There are many natural sinks for phosphorus. Phosphates readily adsorb to detritus and other compounds in the substrate. They form poorly soluble compounds with calcium, iron, and others. They are in highest demand among all living creatures. In that, microbes are faster than plants.
And finally, measuring phosphates is rather problematic and getting exact results requires rather advanced chemical procedures.
 
If you really want to reduce levels it is possible because phosphate (PO4---) forms a <"lot of insoluble compounds">. <"Seachem"> sell an aluminium oxide based version, which "works" if you really want to go down that route.
I happened to try similar product made by "Microbe-Lift". It works, but I feel obliged to issue a WARNING: Phosphorus deficiency comes unnoticed, because plants do not exhibit deformations, they just quit growing. And it's pretty dangerous because "restarting" them with increased dosing of phosphates is often difficult.
 
I happened to try similar product made by "Microbe-Lift

This is Lanthanum Chloride, it’s very effective, it can be detrimental to fish though if allowed to accumulate but the formed precipitate can be filtered out using 10 micron filter material.

More suitable for Marine tanks where you can dose it in the overflow where precipitation is immediate and if you have a filter roller with sub 10 micron fleece it will catch the precipitate and remove it from the system, skimmers also can remove it.

If absolutely needed and I were using this product for freshwater I would treat the tap water outside the tank first and then filter this water to remove any precipitate before adding to the tank.

:)
 
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