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The Flawless

Hari Sankar

Member
Joined
18 Apr 2014
Messages
65
Location
India
Pot Heads planted Tank

HardScape:

Tank:40 Gallon (39''x14"x17")

Substrate: Aqua clay + Unknown bottom additives(Bottom layer) / Contro soil (Top Layer)

Rocks:Wood Rock

Light: SunSun HFL-1000 4x39W/T5

Filtration: SunSun Hw-302 Canister Filter

Cooling Eqipment: Boyu Fs-120A Cooling Fan

CO2 Pressurized - 8Kg Cylinder w/Solenoind pluged in Timer

Fertilizers: Seachem Flourish, An Unkown Macro Fertilizer (Name- Plant food)
------------------------------------------------------------

Flora: UPDATE ON 4/10/2014
DIDIPLIS DIANDRA
GLOSSOSTIGMA ELATINOIDES
STAUROGYNE REPPENS
BACOPA CAROLINIANA
HYGROPHILLA PINNATIFIDA
POGOSTEMON ERUCTUS
ROTALA INDICA- HI RED
BLYXA AUBERTII
HYDROCOTYLE TRIPARTITA "HONDA"
LUDWIGIA INCLINATA Var "CUBA"
X-MAS MOSS
------------------------------------------------------------

Fauna:

15-Cardinal Tetras
2-Boesemani rainbow
Some sort of shrimps will be added

-----------------------------------------------------------

THE PICTURES

THE Tank-

IMG_00000076_zps40eae371.jpg


IMG_00000077_zps70002b9d.jpg

Substrate-

Aqua Clay

Aqua%20clay_zpsgc5rl76o.jpg

Contro Soil

IMG_00000041_zps8c68b8c5.jpg

Canister Filter- SunSun Hw-302

Sun-Sun%20Hw-302%20Filter_zpssktchs4d.jpg
Aquarium Fan

IMG_00000094_zpsefb5c530.jpg


Aquarium Timer

IMG_00000043_zps003ebf07.jpg

Rock

IMG_00000070_2_zps945d28f5.jpg

IMG_00000069_zps6f24e168.jpg

Co2 Eqipments:

The Beast (8kg co2 Cylinder)

IMG-20140206-WA0009_zpsmr9cpeiw.jpg

Co2 Regulator with Solenoid

IMG_00000044_zpseaa30a7b.jpg

Co2 Alloy Diffuser

Co2-Diffuser_zpsrlitvicq.jpg

Co2 Bubble Counter

IMG-20140206-WA0008_zpsxbdtgvv1.jpg

[DOUBLEPOST=1397791609][/DOUBLEPOST]I called the lfs man to help me out in placing the rock and adding the substrate ;)

Some pics taken @ the time of work

IMG_00000080_zps6331dd39.jpg

IMG_00000079_zpsd9a82f22.jpg

IMG_00000082_zpse109d477.jpg

IMG_00000083_zps8fdc9148.jpg

IMG_00000084_zpscc9e6747.jpg

IMG_00000085_zps7b7880a9.jpg

IMG_00000086_zps484ff663.jpg

IMG_00000087_zpsdc7bc933.jpg

IMG_00000093_zpsce9420d4.jpg[DOUBLEPOST=1397791678][/DOUBLEPOST]The Plantation Plan

Plan1_zps27cef183.jpg[DOUBLEPOST=1397791735][/DOUBLEPOST]Had a Busy day Yesterday (planting day) the awesome day

Plants Received Was awesome packing and the plants were fragile my sincere thanks to Seetharam sir (Aqua by nature)

IMG_00000105_zps8a280533.jpg

The First plant which jumped into the tank-POGOSTEMON ERUCTUS

IMG_00000106_zpsa2d006f3.jpg

Other planting

IMG_00000107_zps895fd015.jpg

IMG_00000108_zps2933d4db.jpg


I Have a question for all aquascapers how the hell do you plant glosso,Planting glosso is more harder even Mathematics is easy compared to planting glosso took 2hrs for planting those little creatures...


IMG_00000109_zpsd42b774d.jpg

X-mas moss on wood rock My favorite part wass tying moss

IMG_00000111_zps0837676e.jpg


After Filling RO water

IMG_00000113_zpsfea52616.jpg

IMG_00000114_zpsdd623404.jpg

IMG_00000115_zpsb04351dd.jpg

IMG_00000118_zps5980dfdd.jpg

IMG_00000119_zps2cd199a5.jpg

IMG_00000121_zpsfdb7871f.jpg

IMG_00000122_zps974aa610.jpg

The Aloy diffuser is too Sexy..

IMG_00000125_zps816445ea.jpg

Finally The Full Tank Shot

IMG_00000124_zpsba925b06.jpg

Please give more Inputs it may be postive or negative do help me guys :)
 
Last edited:

ceg4048

Expert/Global Moderator
UKAPS Team
Joined
11 Jul 2007
Messages
9,084
Location
Chicago, USA
Hi Hari,
As usual for most beginners, you are starting the tank with too much light. If you can disable at least 2 of the 4 bulbs it will greatly enhance your chances of success and will diminish the chances of algal blooms. This is especially true if you live in a country with high ambient temperatures. The photoperiod should start at about 6 hours per day and not more than 8.

I think you will also find that an in tank CO2 diffuser will struggle to maintain good levels of CO2. For a quick start, I would disassemble the grill on the filter inlet pipe and move the diffuser under the pipe so that the filter swallows as much of the gas as possible.

I'm really not familiar with your brand of filter, however, if that is a 40 gallon tank then the filter should ideally have a throughput rating of around 300-400 gallons per hour. 400GPH is better than 300GPH of course. If you are not in that range then you should really think about adding a powerhead so that when you sum the flow rating together, the powerhead and filter rating should be at the 400GPH value or more.

I can't really see where the filter output is. It appears that you are just depending on the "Shepard's Crook" but really CO2, flow and distribution are more important than anything else, and you really need to get these right, because they matter more than anything else that you do or any other equipment that you have.

I always advocate the use of spraybars combined with high flow mounted on the back wall of the tank pointing straight forward as described in the very old thread http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/water-flow-in-the-planted-aquarium.1167/

For your fertilizer, I'm fairly certain you should be able to get your hands on the simple nutrient salts such as Potassium Nitrate (KNO3), Potassium Phosphate (KH2PO4) and trace element mix. This is the same stuff that farmers use and they are the same ingredients in the bottles that you buy but are very much cheaper. Please contact our sponsors such as aquariumplantfood.co.uk to see if they will ship to your location, or if not, then check any garden center or agricultural supply house in your area.

Review the Tutorial http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/ei-dosing-using-dry-salts.1211/

Your CO2 should be turned on earlier than the lights sufficient enough so that you can drop the pH by around 1 unit. This should show on the dropchecker as a lime green or yellow color.

If I were you I would forget about fish or shrimp for the moment and concentrate your energies on developing your CO2 and plant husbandry skills.

Cheers,
 

Hari Sankar

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Apr 2014
Messages
65
Location
India
Hi Hari,
As usual for most beginners, you are starting the tank with too much light. If you can disable at least 2 of the 4 bulbs it will greatly enhance your chances of success and will diminish the chances of algal blooms. This is especially true if you live in a country with high ambient temperatures. The photoperiod should start at about 6 hours per day and not more than 8.

I think you will also find that an in tank CO2 diffuser will struggle to maintain good levels of CO2. For a quick start, I would disassemble the grill on the filter inlet pipe and move the diffuser under the pipe so that the filter swallows as much of the gas as possible.

I'm really not familiar with your brand of filter, however, if that is a 40 gallon tank then the filter should ideally have a throughput rating of around 300-400 gallons per hour. 400GPH is better than 300GPH of course. If you are not in that range then you should really think about adding a powerhead so that when you sum the flow rating together, the powerhead and filter rating should be at the 400GPH value or more.

I can't really see where the filter output is. It appears that you are just depending on the "Shepard's Crook" but really CO2, flow and distribution are more important than anything else, and you really need to get these right, because they matter more than anything else that you do or any other equipment that you have.

I always advocate the use of spraybars combined with high flow mounted on the back wall of the tank pointing straight forward as described in the very old thread http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/water-flow-in-the-planted-aquarium.1167/

For your fertilizer, I'm fairly certain you should be able to get your hands on the simple nutrient salts such as Potassium Nitrate (KNO3), Potassium Phosphate (KH2PO4) and trace element mix. This is the same stuff that farmers use and they are the same ingredients in the bottles that you buy but are very much cheaper. Please contact our sponsors such as aquariumplantfood.co.uk to see if they will ship to your location, or if not, then check any garden center or agricultural supply house in your area.

Review the Tutorial http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/ei-dosing-using-dry-salts.1211/

Your CO2 should be turned on earlier than the lights sufficient enough so that you can drop the pH by around 1 unit. This should show on the dropchecker as a lime green or yellow color.

If I were you I would forget about fish or shrimp for the moment and concentrate your energies on developing your CO2 and plant husbandry skills.

Cheers,

I had already cutoffed 2 bulbs and only 2 bulbs are running and 6hrs per day lighting is enough Then Ill make my schedule like this
Lighting Period - From9:00am to 3:00pm
Co2 Period -From8:00am to 4:00pm
(Is this ok??)
Yup for the good water flow ill get a new wavemakerand btw replacing the filter inlet would be a bit impossible..Some issues which cannot be said..

Ill get the fertilizers soon,Ill receive my Co2 indicator in a week time...

Thankyou very much awesome info...
 
Last edited:

harryH

Member
Joined
18 Oct 2013
Messages
338
Hi Hari, Welcome.

You are indeed fortunate to get that reply from Clive (ceg4048) There is absolutely nothing to add and I would advise you to study the advice in his post and try to follow it to the letter, that way you will quickly see the results you are looking for. Good luck.

Harry.
 

OllieNZ

Member
Joined
11 Nov 2009
Messages
994
Location
Witney, UK
Co2 from 7am (or earlier if needed so you have max co2 at lights on) then co2 off at 2pm
 

Hari Sankar

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Apr 2014
Messages
65
Location
India
Hi Hari, Welcome.

You are indeed fortunate to get that reply from Clive (ceg4048) There is absolutely nothing to add and I would advise you to study the advice in his post and try to follow it to the letter, that way you will quickly see the results you are looking for. Good luck.

Harry.
Yes am going to follow evrything he said in that post hoping for good results..[DOUBLEPOST=1397826856][/DOUBLEPOST]
Co2 from 7am (or earlier if needed so you have max co2 at lights on) then co2 off at 2pm
You say that the co2 timing should be from 7:00am to 2:00pm
 

Hari Sankar

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Apr 2014
Messages
65
Location
India
Then here's the final
Lighting period (2x39w)-9:00am to 3:00pm
Co2 period@ 2bps -7:00am to 2:00pm
If wrong correct me please..
 

Hari Sankar

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Apr 2014
Messages
65
Location
India
Is this Compulsary, Because I have only one timer and only pin can be attached
Please Experts suggesions please..[DOUBLEPOST=1397832044][/DOUBLEPOST]Why not like this
Lighting period and Co2 period both 9:00 am to 3:00pm
 

harryH

Member
Joined
18 Oct 2013
Messages
338
You do need to try and get another timer fixed up.

CO2 on at least 1 hour BEFORE the lights as ceg4048 has said above. Also it should go OFF 30 minutes to 1 hour before the lights go out.

Harry
 

Vivian Andrew

Member
Joined
8 Apr 2014
Messages
215
Location
INDIA
Do it manually for 1 month till your plants get well settled or get a timer from ebay just 700 bucks :)
 

Hari Sankar

Member
Thread starter
Joined
18 Apr 2014
Messages
65
Location
India
Do it manually for 1 month till your plants get well settled or get a timer from ebay just 700 bucks :)
Ok Ill do manually for a month:).And Ill buy a new timer afterwards,Now coming to Co2 Bps ,How many bps should I set it,Its too hard to count the bubbles with bubble counter..:confused:
 

RichardJW

Member
Joined
29 Oct 2013
Messages
101
Location
Shaw, Oldham
Looks like Daphnia , which is good free fish food !! I don't see any fish in there , which you'll find will relish eating them up when you add some !,


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Vivian Andrew

Member
Joined
8 Apr 2014
Messages
215
Location
INDIA
Hi hari don't worry abt the creature looks like water flea, i think it came through the plants you bought, And about your co2 keep 4-6bps till you add fish, if you find hard to count the bubbles then use a co2 indicator.
 
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