martinjcxn
New Member
Hello all
After a year in the making my 120cm peninsula tank build is finally getting underway. The idea is a hardwood and elephant stone heavy Nature style Aquarium that divides our living spaces.
So here are they basic details:
Dimensions - 120 x 60w x 45h (low iron)
Lighting - Skylight Hyperspot FL
Filter - Oase Biomaster 850
CO2 - CO2art Pro-Se and Ista CO2 reactor
The stand has been designed with a feature or two for make maintenance easier:
And this is the other side of the view:
(Note the trunking to the right of the tank for the next part)
Here’s the fun part though - I’ve created a smart tank controller using an ESP32 and the Home Assistant platform that allows me to automate and remotely control the following (via HA App or Siri):
1. Switching equipment on and off.
2. The CO2 schedule
3. Water changes and top ups
4. Dosing
5. Cooling fans (if the water temp exceeds 23)
There will be various 3D printed parts which hold sensors, piping and fans etc on the wall side of the tank.
Here is a pic of the controller (it still needs proper mounting in the stand):
For those wondering about water changes:
1. There are two bins outside the house. One fresh water and the other for waste water. The trunking hides the wires for sensors, power and pipes that run to the bins.
2. Pumping is done by 2 12v self priming pumps.
3. There are various float switches (1 in tank, 2 in freshwater reservoir, 1 in waste water bin) that control the pumping out and in sequences. I am also testing contactless sensors.
4. The outbound pump is situated below the tank in the cabinet. The pipe then comes back out the cabinet and climbs up to enter the trunking. At this point there is a one way valve which lets air into the system (after the pump) and creates a siphon break.
Essentially, the WC will only start if the freshwater bin is full and the waste water bin is empty. The filter and heater will switch off and the water starts pumping. Once the waste bin is full then the freshwater starts pumping into the tank, stopping when the in tank float switch triggers. Thereafter the filter and heater switch on again.
If contactless sensors work, then the processes may change to one where water is pumped out and in simultaneously while equipment stays on, with equipment shutting off if water levels drop below a certain level.
The system is designed with smaller, regular 10-20% WCs in mind. It is also not something envisioned to run fully without supervision as things can still go wrong (float switches getting stuck etc) and dump litres of water on the floor. The idea is more to avoid my lazy self having to lug 150l of water around for a 50% WC.
Also, for trimming moss and clearing debris during weekly trimming and maintenance session etc I have a small canister which hangs on the tank and acts as an aquatic vacuum cleaner.
This weekend I shall be doing the leak test and mounting/ testing equipment.
I will certainly keep you all updated as I go.
Cheers
Martin
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
After a year in the making my 120cm peninsula tank build is finally getting underway. The idea is a hardwood and elephant stone heavy Nature style Aquarium that divides our living spaces.
So here are they basic details:
Dimensions - 120 x 60w x 45h (low iron)
Lighting - Skylight Hyperspot FL
Filter - Oase Biomaster 850
CO2 - CO2art Pro-Se and Ista CO2 reactor
The stand has been designed with a feature or two for make maintenance easier:
And this is the other side of the view:
(Note the trunking to the right of the tank for the next part)
Here’s the fun part though - I’ve created a smart tank controller using an ESP32 and the Home Assistant platform that allows me to automate and remotely control the following (via HA App or Siri):
1. Switching equipment on and off.
2. The CO2 schedule
3. Water changes and top ups
4. Dosing
5. Cooling fans (if the water temp exceeds 23)
There will be various 3D printed parts which hold sensors, piping and fans etc on the wall side of the tank.
Here is a pic of the controller (it still needs proper mounting in the stand):
For those wondering about water changes:
1. There are two bins outside the house. One fresh water and the other for waste water. The trunking hides the wires for sensors, power and pipes that run to the bins.
2. Pumping is done by 2 12v self priming pumps.
3. There are various float switches (1 in tank, 2 in freshwater reservoir, 1 in waste water bin) that control the pumping out and in sequences. I am also testing contactless sensors.
4. The outbound pump is situated below the tank in the cabinet. The pipe then comes back out the cabinet and climbs up to enter the trunking. At this point there is a one way valve which lets air into the system (after the pump) and creates a siphon break.
Essentially, the WC will only start if the freshwater bin is full and the waste water bin is empty. The filter and heater will switch off and the water starts pumping. Once the waste bin is full then the freshwater starts pumping into the tank, stopping when the in tank float switch triggers. Thereafter the filter and heater switch on again.
If contactless sensors work, then the processes may change to one where water is pumped out and in simultaneously while equipment stays on, with equipment shutting off if water levels drop below a certain level.
The system is designed with smaller, regular 10-20% WCs in mind. It is also not something envisioned to run fully without supervision as things can still go wrong (float switches getting stuck etc) and dump litres of water on the floor. The idea is more to avoid my lazy self having to lug 150l of water around for a 50% WC.
Also, for trimming moss and clearing debris during weekly trimming and maintenance session etc I have a small canister which hangs on the tank and acts as an aquatic vacuum cleaner.
This weekend I shall be doing the leak test and mounting/ testing equipment.
I will certainly keep you all updated as I go.
Cheers
Martin
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
