Started CO2 yesterday parameters way out today

[Robert Fletcher]

I started pressurised CO2 yesterday and the drop counter is now a nice lime green. A 30% water change preceded this. Now the perimeters are all out of wack. Here is what I did. Tank size 110 litre.

Added 10 Tropica Nutrition Capsules to a neutral clay substrate.
Added 3 squirts of Tropica Plant Growth Premium Fertiliser. (Should have been 10).

Using the API Master Test Kit I recorded the following this morning.

pH 6.4
ammonia 1 ppm
nitrite 2 ppm
Nitrate 80 ppm

Immediate action 15 ml of Prime. Fish look normal to me.

I don’t have an analysis of these fertilisers. I have used previously Seachem Flourish Comprehensive without CO2 injection with no noticeable effect.

I have not panicled yet. I have read that starting CO2 can upset perimeters. What I am thinking is could these fertilizers contain ammonium compounds that is giving me these readings. What should I do I am biding time by using Prime.

 

[Franks]

Your nitrates will now always read high because you’re adding ferts. Don’t worry, add more ferts and crank the co2 until stress. Then back off.


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[Konsa]

Hi
How long the tank is been setup? Any filter changes or other major disturbances of substrate ? It seems the Nitrogen cycle has crashed (strugling)or is not fully completed.
With the addition of CO2 U need to dose fertiliser regulary and in the the full doses (Branded fertilisers recommended dose is quite low for a high tech tank to begin with) or U are up for a hard time fighting algae and trying to keep the plants in goot health .
The additional fertiliser adds to Nitrate but not harming your fish.
If U have high nitrate and not adding it is a end product of previous high amonia spike and thats is suggesting poor filtration issue at some point.The tests are highly influenced and take results with a pinch of salt.
Change 50%water as much as U can for now.
U can try and source some fast growers too ,to help mop up Ammonia, and Nitrite as plants absorb notrogen from all sources unlike filter bacteria.But for that to happen U must make sure U are not limiting the other nutrients by not adding them.
Regards Konsa

 

[Zeus.]

Plus if you have just added CO2 the plants internal mechanisms will be changing, this process can take 2/3 weeks during which time, the CO2 needs to be optimal at lights on and stable for 4hrs, no good having [CO2] maxing out mid photoperiod. Turn light intensity down if you can during adjustment to CO2 or reduce photoperiod. 2/3 weeks slowly turn light up.
I am no expert but that's what I would do from limited experience and reading around following threads.

Hope its of some help, your call

 

[Robert Fletcher]

Sorry I am a bit late to reply. I would like to thank you for your suggestions. It was going along with what I was thinking of not doing anything rash. I will keep my fishes safe it that means dosing with Prime. After all it’s only been just have 24 hours since CO2 was introduced. The problem with the information on line is there is such lot co conflicting information. There is some added growth with my 2 varieties of Hygrophila but then they are very aggressive growers. I don’t know if they are responding to fertiliser and or CO2. Thanks again for you help.

 

[Robert Fletcher]

I have a problem and I don’t think I am on my own. I am convinced there is a link between the CO2 coming on and the high spiking. Others have asked this question on various forums. This one on “The Planted Tank” from 2006 is fitting my picture. I have tried to bump that thread up. I was thinking that I was not as affected but I have lost a Molly and possible a danio as I cannot find him. But one had a habit of hiding in the plants.

This morning when I awoke most of the fish was at the top of the tank but when the lights came on they behaved normally. I don’t normally look at the tank in the dark.

The drop counter is green but I have my suspicions on the Fluval CO2 fluid as when it is blue it is opaque. Not like the pictures I have seen.

The nitrate spike happened very rapidly with nitrate Red I estimate somewhere between 80 and 160 ppm. Nitrite also spiked to 2ppm all this in 2 to 3 hours.

The Tropica root capsules were buried and the beads are resin coated. Whilst they contain nitrogen and phosphorus this in enclosed in a resin bead and respond to plants demands and not just dissolve in the water. The Tropica liquid fertiliser contains no nitrogen or phosphorus.

Water perimeters this morning. PH 6.6, Ammonia 0.25 ppm, Nitrite 2 ppm, Nitrate 160 ppm. Followed by 12ml Prime

Emergency action following death of Molly. Gas ceased, 30% water change. Parameters after 2 hours. PH6.8 ammonia 0.25, nitrite 1.00 nitrate 80 ppm.

History: Tank setup in May. Quickstart and 4 little danios after 2 weeks. Continued very slow introduction of fish. By 5 weeks zero ammonia and nitrite. No further problem.

About 6 weeks ago I had to move the tank. Which meant moving fish and plants. I was able to retain about 70% water and the filter.

Now here is where I may have done something. I wanted to replace the substrate as I was only using gravel but I did not want to have substrate upset the parameters. After reading I settled on a neutral clay substrate with high CEC. But not inmtended for aquaris but people use it never the less Plants never seem to do that well in that.

The other question is can CO2 have a damaging effect on the nitrifying bacteria and the colony would need to become bigger. But the nitrite/nitrate spikes have to my thinking been too rapid and severe.

There's my sad story I am almost inclined to rebuild the tank with the best substrate, fertilizers and plants but that would mean another cycle and I don’t have another tank or room for one. What should I do?

 

[Robert Fletcher]

Sorry I meant to put a link in can't see where I can edit it sot it is Here.

 

[Konsa]

Hi
The CO2 addition is not damaging the filter bacteria.The filter performance is related to the oxygen levels in the tank.The addition of high CO2 in tank is not meaning that is reducing oxygen levels.Different fish have different CO2 tolerance and is easy to get your fish killed with too much CO2.This is why is good idea to have no livestock when starting CO2 or U start with slow bubble count and ramp up slow during few days observing fish behaviour.What solution are U using for your dropchecker .
The best U can do is to drop down the CO2 a bit and change big volume water daily
Regards Konsa

 

[Robert Fletcher]

Hi
The CO2 addition is not damaging the filter bacteria.The filter performance is related to the oxygen levels in the tank.The addition of high CO2 in tank is not meaning that is reducing oxygen levels.Different fish have different CO2 tolerance and is easy to get your fish killed with too much CO2.This is why is good idea to have no livestock when starting CO2 or U start with slow bubble count and ramp up slow during few days observing fish behaviour.What solution are U using for your dropchecker .
Regards Konsa

The fluid is the Fluval. When is is blue it is opaque blue not clear like the pictures. People have questioned that one on the net. Someone asked about it on here but it seems most people make KHd4 and add the indicator.