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Rummy nose side bottom.

Marios

Marios

Member
Joined
14 Sep 2021
Messages
49
Location
Cyprus
Hi all,

In contrary to the behavior of the rummies in this thread, mine will just stay in the front RHS of the tank. There are cases that a few will venture towards the LHS but they will immediately return back once they notice that the rest do not follow. The only time they will swim to the other side is when I feed them. The tank has been running for about six months and the rummies have been there for last 3-4 months.

Any ideas of might be causing this behavior?

FYI, the tank is shown in the attachment and I have circled the place where they hang out.
 

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Could well be the apistogramma but how many rummy nose do you have? They get confidence in high numbers.
 
PARAGUAY said:
Just a thought could it be Apistogramma setting up territory ?
Click to expand...
Don't think so. Whenever they do come near the apistos (for example when feeding or when changing water), they show no interest towards them.
Also, the apistos were added a few weeks after the rummies, so this behaviour was already present.

mort said:
Could well be the apistogramma but how many rummy nose do you have? They get confidence in high numbers.
Click to expand...
just over 20.
 
20 is a nice group size and although it's the "more the better" with tetra I don't think that's the issue. I think we considered the apistogramma to potentially be the issue because the rummy nose are hanging around the open areas and not the cover. The only thing I can really think of is to add some dither fish to bring out the confidence in the rummies. If you have the space a dozen or group of different tetras might help give them some confidence.
 
Just another idea to add to the mix, but you're running quite a light green on the drop checker. I have had shrimp and fish hang out near the filter inlet on a couple of occasions where the CO2 has crept up a little too high. In those cases they do it because that spot is where the CO2 is lowest in the tank.

Try turning your CO2 off for a couple of days, and see if their behaviour changes. if it does, then you know you need to dial the CO2 back.
 
mort said:
20 is a nice group size and although it's the "more the better" with tetra I don't think that's the issue. I think we considered the apistogramma to potentially be the issue because the rummy nose are hanging around the open areas and not the cover. The only thing I can really think of is to add some dither fish to bring out the confidence in the rummies. If you have the space a dozen or group of different tetras might help give them some confidence.
Click to expand...
Thanks @mort, I will try and maybe add a another group of tetras or wcmm.

Andy Pierce said:
Hard to tell from the photo, but are they hanging out where the water flow is fastest? Do they swim in place where they are?
Click to expand...
@andy, I don't think that the flow is the fastest there. I did try adding a power head/wavemaker of 2,000l/hr on the bottom RHS the other day to test this. What I noticed was that the Rummies ended up on the LHS and could not come to the RHS, they were "struggling" to swim back. I could see them "swimming" but where not moving, if you understand what I mean (apologies for my English, since they are not my first language). I decided to remove the power head.

Wookii said:
Just another idea to add to the mix, but you're running quite a light green on the drop checker. I have had shrimp and fish hang out near the filter inlet on a couple of occasions where the CO2 has crept up a little too high. In those cases they do it because that spot is where the CO2 is lowest in the tank.

Try turning your CO2 off for a couple of days, and see if their behaviour changes. if it does, then you know you need to dial the CO2 back.
Click to expand...
Never thought of that. However, wouldn't the other fish (apistos and cories) and the amanos show a similar behaviour? On the other hand though, some fish are more sensitive to CO2 than others, so that could be the case.
In any event, I will first try adding a group of other fish, as I am a bit reluctant to dial down or turn off the CO2 and if that does not help, I will try your suggestion.

Thank you all for your inputs.
 
Marios said:
I am a bit reluctant to dial down or turn off the CO2
Click to expand...

Why? It would the simplest and easiest thing to test and see if it is the cause - or eliminate if its not the cause?

If you introduce new fish you should be turning the CO2 off for at least a day (and ramping back up slowly over a week) anyway, so you're going have to dial down the CO2 with either option.
 
Wookii said:
Why? It would the simplest and easiest thing to test and see if it is the cause - or eliminate if its not the cause?

If you introduce new fish you should be turning the CO2 off for at least a day (and ramping back up slowly over a week) anyway, so you're going have to dial down the CO2 with either option.
Click to expand...
Maybe you are right 🙂.
I am just horrified of the idea of an algae outbreak as I recently had some staghorn algae bloom as the CO2 bottle emptied when I was away for a week.

So I guess I will need to turn off the lights and the stop the fertilisation as well?
 
Marios said:
Maybe you are right 🙂.
I am just horrified of the idea of an algae outbreak as I recently had some staghorn algae bloom as the CO2 bottle emptied when I was away for a week.

So I guess I will need to turn off the lights and the stop the fertilisation as well?
Click to expand...

You could dial down the lights for the period too, no need to stop the ferts though, and you really shouldn't see a massive algae outbreak just from two days with no CO2.
 
Wookii said:
You could dial down the lights for the period too, no need to stop the ferts though, and you really shouldn't see a massive algae outbreak just from two days with no CO2.
Click to expand...
Ok then will try this approach.
Thanks.
 
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