Regulator set-up

[The Accidental Aquascaper]

The fittings are super tight and I want to check a couple of things before I try to undo something that doesn't undo.

Firstly, does anyone see a problem with rotating the solenoid 180* as per my image in yellow?
I can't see why it would be a problem, as it doesn't get in the way of the cylinder and gives me the option to point the needle valve downwards.

Which brings me to my second question. Is it ok to point the needle valve downwards as per the one in red on image?
I'll be using it with an inline bubble counter and it would make the tubing far neater.

 

[Zeus.]

Firstly, does anyone see a problem with rotating the solenoid 180* as per my image in yellow?

nope had mine like that since fitting

Which brings me to my second question. Is it ok to point the needle valve downwards as per the one in red on image?

NO and Yes.

I have my needle valves pointing down but I my JBL inline atomisers have the bubble counter in them, but a STD bubble counter which fits to a needle valve must be vertical with the feed to the injector at the highest point if you wish the water to stay in it to count the bubbles. I will still work pointing down but the water will empty as soon as the CO2 comes on

 

[The Accidental Aquascaper]

NO and Yes.

I have my needle valves pointing down but I my JBL inline atomisers have the bubble counter in them, but a STD bubble counter which fits to a needle valve must be vertical with the feed to the injector at the highest point if you wish the water to stay in it to count the bubbles. I will still work pointing down but the water will empty as soon as the CO2 comes on

I’m using an inline bubble counter, so I guess it doesn’t matter if the needle valve is pointing down as I’ll have the counter mounted vertically. Just like you’ve done it.
Thanks Zeus!

 

[X3NiTH]

I wouldn't mess with the gas connected parts unless you are prepared to sort them (line from bottle to block to needle valve) as they are likely tight because thread lock has been used, you can rotate the solenoid 180 in the horizontal and vertical plane by unscrewing the knurled thumbscrew and moving the electrically connected part. If the job to rotate the needle valve requires a spanner be careful you could damage integrity of the connection to the pressure block and you may never get a tight seal without gas tape and some more thread lock.

 

[Zeus.]

My needle valves spin round 360 degrees. Was pain when I use to have bubble counters on them as they wouldnt stay vertical

 

[The Accidental Aquascaper]

I wouldn't mess with the gas connected parts unless you are prepared to sort them (line from bottle to block to needle valve) as they are likely tight because thread lock has been used, you can rotate the solenoid 180 in the horizontal and vertical plane by unscrewing the knurled thumbscrew and moving the electrically connected part. If the job to rotate the needle valve requires a spanner be careful you could damage integrity of the connection to the pressure block and you may never get a tight seal without gas tape and some more thread lock.

I had a quick go last night and the connections are too tight. I think I'll leave it as is and just have a loop of tubing.
Thanks!

 

[Gold Fish]

This reply is 3 years to late but hopefully useful for others.
The connections are not too tight, they are glued in place. If we're tampering with them we will lose warranty from co2 art. If you are not confident that you know what you are doing and you don't have the right tools (threads will need to be cleaned of resin), my advice is to leave it as it is.
In practice you can remove and turn any of them. Please be aware that the threads used by co2 art are different from the ones used by co2 supermarket. I have moved my solenoid on the line (a different one) and left only the needle valve pointing down on my regulator (the bubble counter is on the line as well).