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Order of check valve / bubble counter from regulator

willsy

Member
Joined
19 Mar 2012
Messages
98
Hi,

I'm setting up my new CO2 regulator and bought the ADA clear parts set which contains suction cups, check valve and silicon hosing (for the low pressure side after the check valve).

So in the diagram it says that it should be:

Regulator > High Pressure CO2 hose > Check valve (high up on the side of the aquarium) > Silicon hose > Bubble counter > Silicon Hose > Diffuser.

I'm currently going to do this:

Regulator (with inbuilt bubble counter) > High pressure CO2 hose > Check valve (high up on the side of the aquarium) > Silicon Hose > CO2 J Steel over the top of the aquarium > Silicon Hose > NEO Diffuser.

Just wondering if I can leave the bubble counter out of this (after the check valve)... I already have a bubble counter on my regulator. I wonder if there is a reason for having a bubble counter after the check valve, or is this just optional?

In the ADA instructions, it seems to draw attention the placement and use of the check valve but draws little attention to the bubble counter, so I think this is maybe optional?

Thanks for any advice! :)

Will.
 

Zeus.

Fertz Calc Meister
Joined
1 Oct 2016
Messages
3,926
Location
Yorkshire,UK
As long as you have a check valve the bubble counter is optional as its just a gauge to the injection rate. I went for JBL inline diffusor which have the bubble counter and check valve built in so I took the bubble counter of the solenoid as less joints the better as less places for potential leaks
 

willsy

Member
Thread starter
Joined
19 Mar 2012
Messages
98
Yes, but that's low down. According to the ADA instructions the check valve should be high up.

I will give it a try in the current setup. Should be fine! :)
 

zozo

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Joined
16 Apr 2015
Messages
7,854
Location
Netherlands
It's actualy more safe to use 2 check valves and still regularly check the tube for condensation beyond the valves. Every check valve no matter how expensively it is designed all work with the same principle, it needs a counter pressure to completely shut the door. This counter pressure is minusculle and never realy 100% air tight/waterproof. Everytime it closes it sucks a little air or medium back into the system beyond the valve/plunger. If this air or medium is moisturized or even plain water it will condense in the tube and creep it's way towards the regulator. That's a nonono..

Diffusers with a build in bubble counter/check valve, the valve is extremely close to the water filled section in the diffuser. It is not unlikely to happen that is sucks back a tiny water droplet into the tube beyond the valve. Doing this 24/7 week in week out can result in a extremely moisterized tube. The other thing is, the water in the diffuser is fertilized aquarium water containing salts, this can deposite in the checkvalve over time and prevent it from fully closing.

Thus never put your trust fully on a check valve, keep checking the check valve regularly and even beter use 2 in serie.. Put 1 close to the regulator far away from the water and if it's not build into to the bubble counter/diffuser put one close to it, but not to close.

If you ever see condensed water droplets in the co2 line, than take a spare dry tube and replace it weekly.

Just check and double check regularly, what you don't want is a corroded irregular regulator.. :thumbup:
It doesn't happen over night, only if you put your trust into it, forget about it and never check..

Actualy using a stand alone bubble counter and fill it with demineralzid water is even beter.. I've also seen them filled with a very low viscosity oil, this prevents moist completely to get close to the regulator..
 
Last edited:

willsy

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Thread starter
Joined
19 Mar 2012
Messages
98
Thanks so much for the detailed info. I really appreciate that. :)
 

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