• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

New Set up

Antony88

New Member
Joined
6 Jan 2022
Messages
2
Location
Crewe
Hey Everyone,

I have a 216ltr NDAquatics tank set up and I will shortly be starting a new planted set up and I know you get asked all the time about substrates. I like others like to save money where possible.
I know with buying plants there really isn't saving money in the initial set up especially if you want it heavy planted.
My main question is about substrates I have seen pretty much every MD Fishtanks videos. I was thinking for height is buying bio balls and the mesh bags to create the height.
For the main substrate I was thinking some sort of mix like MD does and capped with fine gravel. What gravel can I buy to mix in with the substrate. I have loads of horticultural grit or am I best using proper fish tank gravel? for the soil part do I spend money on the tropica soil or do I get something bit cheaper if its going in as part of a mix?
For lighting I was thinking the all pond solutions Pled 910 as MD favours it most of his set ups and it his plants all look good
 
This is all going to be personal preference.

For building height you can pretty much use any inert substrate you like, I have used pea gravel in tights before for example.

For the main substrate, rather than a mix like MD uses which is a mix of sand/gravel and old tropica soil, you could just go for a nutrient base layer like deponit mix or tropica substrate base layer and cap that with sand.

I have used the APS lights before and they are fine if a little basic.

What are your plans and goals for the tank? Is it going to be high tech with injected CO2 etc as this will make some difference.
 
Welcome to the forum!

My main question is about substrates I have seen pretty much every MD Fishtanks videos. I was thinking for height is buying bio balls and the mesh bags to create the height.
You can use crushed lava rock (sold in bulk for grills/bbq) inside mesh bags not only to create height but to stabilize the hardscape. The rough structure of the lava will keep it in place. Lava rock also allows for good water circulation and will not easily promote anaerobic conditions under the gravel.
 
Thanks for that both. Its going to be a low tech tank. I don't think I will use co2 on this tank, but maybe use the liquid co2 as I have seen that in quite a few videos. I already have a nicrew light but I find it a bit naff and doesn't seem that bright
 
Thanks for that both. Its going to be a low tech tank. I don't think I will use co2 on this tank, but maybe use the liquid co2 as I have seen that in quite a few videos. I already have a nicrew light but I find it a bit naff and doesn't seem that bright
About the liquid carbon I found this info. It boils down to it not being a great source of CO2, but a useful tool to use when there is an algae outbreak.
 
Thanks for that both. Its going to be a low tech tank. I don't think I will use co2 on this tank, but maybe use the liquid co2 as I have seen that in quite a few videos. I already have a nicrew light but I find it a bit naff and doesn't seem that bright
Either you go high-tech and inject CO2, or you go low-tech and do not use CO2. DIY CO2 (resulting from fermentation) could also be an option but your 200l tank is too large for that.

Glutaraldehyde, aka "liquid CO2" is an excellent algaecide, especially when applied directly to cyanobacteria and nasty algae such as BBA. But it is not a CO2 alternative, despite the misleading marketing from some brands.

You can run an heavily planted tank without CO2. There are dozens of plants, including carpeting plants, that will thrive without CO2 provided they have access to plenty of nutrients and appropriate light. You just need to be more patient.
 
I don't know why – someone here will – but when I used liquid CO2 I got a serious case of green water that took some time to clear.
 
I don't know why – someone here will – but when I used liquid CO2 I got a serious case of green water that took some time to clear.
There is likely not a direct causation, but glutaraldehyde can easily change the balance of the tank's ecosystem. <Glutaraldehyde> is a biocide and disinfectant that can work as an algaecide in very low concentrations. It is highly toxic in concentrated form. Adding glutaraldehyde to a tank will damage and kill several algae and micro-organisms. You do not need much to start damaging sensitive higher plants. The damaged organisms will leak organic compounds to the water column. This might create an imbalance in the tank which, combined with other factors (such as strong light), can create the conditions for the proliferation of organisms that are not affected by glutaraldehyde, such as several that are often found in the "green water" organic mix. Green water is usually not addressed with algaecides but with UVC, large water changes, and black-outs. Green water often disappears by itself after a while once the system returns to balanced state.

Having a bottle of glutaraldehyde is very useful to apply directly on algae (not on the water column). Otherwise, this is one of the substances that should stay away from the tank.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top