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New 5.5 US Gallon Low Light Non Co2 Tank

faizal

Member
Joined
1 Mar 2011
Messages
968
Location
Alor Setar , Malaysia
In a low light non co2 set up,...it's advised as best to plant heavily from Day - 1 of planting. Now in real practice, one should expect some melting secondary to the new negative Co2 balance presented by the new environment. If one comes across such a melt for instance at the lower half of the stems of some plants,...how should that person approach the problem?

We can't just leave the plant there because there would be an ammonia spike resulting from that melt,....and just suppose we do uproot,....then what? Are we suppose to do a major water change after that? And if we decide to go for that water change aren't we worsening the stable non co2 environment that we are trying to acheive in the first place?

Help and thoughts please.

Faizal
 
I should think that plant's may need a week or two ,perhaps more in Non CO2 tank to adapt from possibly emmersed state to submerged and after that,,I remove those that appear dying/dead.
Water for water changes could be stored for a day or two, and this I should think, would allow any CO2 to offgas.
Afraid I haven't had much luck with stem plant's. (still working on it).
 
Nice idea with regards to the water change by the way. I have seen some people doing very minimal (25%) water change every week to their low tech tanks ,...yet still the plants don't appear to suffer. I remember reading a post @ barrreport where if I remember correctly Tom said no major water change(50%) but 25% WC is a matter of individual preference. I am confused. I guess there won't be such huge co2 fluctuations with very small water changes.

Roadmaster,...do you do any water changes in your low tech tank. Love to see a pic of it too ,...if its not too much. 🙂
 
I own a number of low tech tanks and change water when I think the quality of the tank water is low.
I judge this by surface scum, odour and fish health.

As long as the plants keep getting fed they do not care. With a couple of exceptions...

Crypts can melt if the new water is of wildly differing parameters to the old water.
If you already have BBA it may be encouraged further by large water changes.
 
I change 50 percent of the water once a month, or perhaps every two months. I have quite a few fishes and water begins to look heavy? (To me) after a couple months.
Other's go much longer between water changes, but I cannot seem to refrain.(embarrassed)
Tried to submit photo a month or two ago, but computer claimed ..File was too large, or image was too large and I am at a severe handicapp with regards to computer's (embarrassed more).
In any event,I recently removed a bunch of leopard vals, and replaced them with some taller crypt Balansae,spiralis,and they have yet to grow to sufficient proportions that would make presentable photo in my view.
Have a wide variety of largely crypt's, and will attempt to submit photo as they mature a bit more.
Not really much to look at compared to some other, (most planted tanks I have seen here, but I am happy with it and maint is super easy .
 
I see no reason to be embarassed about carrying out water changes on a low tech tank 🙂
What do you mean by heavy? I am interested to know how you judge when a WC is required?
 
a1Matt said:
I see no reason to be embarassed about carrying out water changes on a low tech tank 🙂
What do you mean by heavy? I am interested to know how you judge when a WC is required?

Have tried to follow Tom Barr's NonCO2 low maint,(ie few water changes) method where I could ,but cannot seem to refrain from water changes that some say are unnecessary for month's even with moderate fish load.
Once a week or every two weeks, I add NPK and trace at perhaps 1/3 of EI dose for High tech Tank and plant's are doing well.
Cannot explain any better than (heavy) with respect to water, Just how I Perceive it.
Does however prevent GH from dropping too much and tapwater is cheaper than GH booster.
 
I also followed that method for a while.
I learnt from it, and now am happy to go with my perceptions too 🙂

Going back to the OP...
I would simply remove any melted leaves so that they do not degrade the water quality.
If you suspect the water quality has lowered I would then do a WC.
Some people will let the new water sit overnight after it comes out the tap so that it 'degasses', the idea being that the co2 content will match that of the tank it is going into.
 
a1Matt said:
I would simply remove any melted leaves so that they do not degrade the water quality.
If you suspect the water quality has lowered I would then do a WC.
Some people will let the new water sit overnight after it comes out the tap so that it 'degasses', the idea being that the co2 content will match that of the tank it is going into.

Thank you a1Matt,....yes,..I think I will do that then. Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. I have just included some floating plants into the tank. It's amazing how clear the water seems to be,...or is it just my imagination?

Faizal

Thanks again. 🙂
 
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