aaronnorth
Member
LIGHTING
Lighting is very important in plant keeping, i have written this guide in hope to answer some of your questions, please ask in the Lighting section for more accurate details specifically for your tank.
LIGHT LEVELS
In an aquarium with a depth of 24â€/ 60cm or less, standard aquarium lighting can be used and the ‘Watts per Gallon’ (WPG) rule can be used effectively. This rule is worked out in US Gallons, an example of this:
Total Wattage/ Total US gallons = WPG
200w/ 100 = 2WPG
If an aquarium is deeper than this then more light is needed in order to penetrate to the bottom. Please note the WPG is a rough guide to your lighting levels and is based on T8 Tubes. With the more powerful T5 tubes, which most planted tank enthusiasts use - due to the ability of fitting more tubes over tank and the fact that they produce more lumens per watt - the WPG rule is more leanient and therefore not as much watts are needed for the desired level of WPG that you want.
0 to 1 WPG – Very Low
1 to 2 WPG – Low to Medium
2 to 3 WPG – Medium to Medium High
3 to 4 WPG - Medium High to High
Over 4 WPG – High to Very High
In a tank over 70 US Gallons the WPG rule is more leanient (in other words you don’t need as much light), In tanks less than 10 US gallons more light is needed, take a look here for an explanation on minimum light threshold:
http://www.rexgrigg.com/mlt.html
PLANT LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
Different plant species require different light levels. In General, you can tell the light requirement of a plant by looking at its leaf colour. Darker green plants normally require less light as it indicates that the plant has lots of chlorophyll making it more efficient at photosynthesising. Lighter green or red plants have less chlorophyll making the plant less efficient at photosynthesising therefore requiring more light. One should use these differences in light requirements when planning the overall layout i.e. “lower light†plants should be shaded by the “higher light†plants. Examples of plant species that grow in the very low to low lighting bracket include Anubias, Cryptocoryne, Java fern and various mosses. This said, most of these will still benefit from more light.
TYPES OF LIGHTING
There are many types of lighting, there is the T12 fluorescent (1.5†diameter), the most commonly used is the T8 (1â€) then there is the T5 (5/8thâ€). T5 come in HO (high output) and PC (power compact), this allows for deeper penetration in the tank, useful for tanks above 24"/ 60cm. And the relatively new concept lighting - the T6 (also 1"). T6 are able to fit in the T8 ballasts, but they also give out 40% more light. The lower the number, the more efficient the tube. The number after the 'T' is the size of the tube. Other available lighting is Metal Halides (MH), these are useful for large or deep tanks but they are inefficient due to the heat they produce.
Full-Spectrum (Tri-Phosphor) Lamps
Widely regarded as the best light for growing aquarium plants is the full-spectrum lamp although no data has been provided to support this. This means that the light output peaks in three (regular T8s peak in two) colours giving a “fuller†light more likely to meet the plant’s photosynthesising requirements. Photosynthesis occurs most efficiently with peaks in the red, green and a bit of the blue parts of the spectrum. Plants are adaptable and will change their pigment distribution and content to adjust to the available spectrum. Most full-spectrum lamps will give a cool white light, ideal for both plants and for viewing and will have a high Colour Rendition Index (CRI) meaning that the illuminated objects will appear in their natural colour, these tubes are not produced for plants, but for the human eye, it is what looks best to you.
Overhead Luminaires are a great way to add extra lighting, they clip on the glass and hang over the tank. Some models come with two switches so that is possible to have all the tubes running halfway through the lighting period to imitate a midday burst of sunlight. Luminaires are also more asthetically pleasing due to the fact that you cant see the rim of the hood.
For nano's, there are some smaller versions such as the Arc Pod which are available in 9w and 11w.
There are cheaper alternatives, such as these available off ebay which I have recently purchased and are so far good value for money.
Another way to add extra lighting is to buy the tubes and fit them into the existing hood. The tubes usually come supplied with clips which screw on. Here is how i have done mine on my Fluval Elite 60:
COLOUR TEMPERATURE
This is the colour of the tube’s output measured in degrees Kelvin (K). The 'best' colour temperature for plant growth replicates daylight at around noon on the Earth’s equator and is approx. 5500K to 6500K. This is a white light and is normally produced by full-spectrum lamps. There are other tri-phosphor lamps available which give varying colour temps ranging from 3000K to 10000K. The lower the colour temperature the redder the light, the higher the temperature the bluer. I have heard of and experienced success stories with a wide range of colour temperatures. I would recommend having a K between 5500k – 11 000k, but to be honest as long as there is enough light, then don’t worry to much about the Kelvin, The spectrum is far more important (Red, Green and a bit of Blue).
LIGHT CONTROL UNITS (BALLASTS)
These provide the power to the fluorescent tube(s). Two main types are sold - magnetic and electronic. Magnetic are less efficient as a lot of the power supplied is wasted in heat i.e. a 40W tube may use 100W total power (40W for the light, 60W wasted in heat). One advantage is that they are cheaper to purchase and are known to be very reliable (in particular the Arcadia ballasts). Electronic ballasts are a lot more efficient giving off virtually no heat; they are also a lot lighter (weight) but they are more expensive. Both types of units can power either single or two tubes. Magnetic ballast will start with a 'flicker' which means the tube last less time. This is why people suggest changing each year. Lamps on an electronic ballast will start after a half second delay with no flicker and therefore don't deteriorate so quickly. These can last 2 years+ before there is sufficient deterioration, thats they need changing.
REFLECTORS
Reflectors (also known as light-enhancers) are a simple way of increasing the light intensity and efficiency. All the light available is reflected toward the plants. It is the cheapest and easiest way of getting the most from your lighting. To retain maximum efficiency the reflectors and tubes must be cleaned regularly.
LIGHTING DURATION (PHOTOPERIOD)
Lighting should be on for 8-10hours a day, plants do not recognise photoperiods of less than 4 hours. Lighting can be switched on and off when you like, a ‘midday burst’ can be added when additional lighting is turned on for 2 hours to recreate the sun at its highest point. Some people also recommend having your lighting on for:- 5hr ON 2hr OFF 5hr ON – This is supposed to keep algae at bay and it is useful when using DIY CO2 or fermentation kits, this is called a ‘siesta’ period. I have tried using this technique and for me it didn’t work, if anything, it was damaging to the plants they will prefer 10hours straight. Plants are supposed to adapt to a small dark period whereas algae is supposedly not so adaptable - but it is!!. Recommended siesta periods can be from 1 hour to 3 hours with a minimum of 4 hours of lighting either side of the siesta. Try to stay away from this technique, i was just highlighting the meaning of it.
Timers are a very effective and convenient method of controlling photoperiods. One can set the timer to switch off at a time most suitable to the viewer. I have my lights switch off just before i go to bed and i keep them on 8-10hours straight.
When first setting up your aquarium, it is becoming more popular to run the light for 6hrs per day. This minimizes the chances of algae growth while the balance is still unstable in the tank.
To summarise - If you wish to have a long-term successful heavily planted aquarium, full of lush growing plants then I would recommend having approximatley 1-1.5wpg. This will slow growth so the tank will have a longer period of time to mature.
If you wish to have a short-term successful planted aquarium, then i would reccomend 2-2.5wpg of lighting. Going higher than 2.5wpg becomes difficult to create a balance, and there is a much higher chace of algae growth. However you MUST inject CO2 and fertilise regularly if these light levels are achieved. A balance must be kept between Lighitng, CO2 & Fertilisation to prevent algae blooms. More light requires more CO2 and nutrients (aim for a constant 25 to 30ppm of CO2).
I hope this may help to answer some of your queries.
Thanks for reading, Aaron
Lighting is very important in plant keeping, i have written this guide in hope to answer some of your questions, please ask in the Lighting section for more accurate details specifically for your tank.
LIGHT LEVELS
In an aquarium with a depth of 24â€/ 60cm or less, standard aquarium lighting can be used and the ‘Watts per Gallon’ (WPG) rule can be used effectively. This rule is worked out in US Gallons, an example of this:
Total Wattage/ Total US gallons = WPG
200w/ 100 = 2WPG
If an aquarium is deeper than this then more light is needed in order to penetrate to the bottom. Please note the WPG is a rough guide to your lighting levels and is based on T8 Tubes. With the more powerful T5 tubes, which most planted tank enthusiasts use - due to the ability of fitting more tubes over tank and the fact that they produce more lumens per watt - the WPG rule is more leanient and therefore not as much watts are needed for the desired level of WPG that you want.
0 to 1 WPG – Very Low
1 to 2 WPG – Low to Medium
2 to 3 WPG – Medium to Medium High
3 to 4 WPG - Medium High to High
Over 4 WPG – High to Very High
In a tank over 70 US Gallons the WPG rule is more leanient (in other words you don’t need as much light), In tanks less than 10 US gallons more light is needed, take a look here for an explanation on minimum light threshold:
http://www.rexgrigg.com/mlt.html
PLANT LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
Different plant species require different light levels. In General, you can tell the light requirement of a plant by looking at its leaf colour. Darker green plants normally require less light as it indicates that the plant has lots of chlorophyll making it more efficient at photosynthesising. Lighter green or red plants have less chlorophyll making the plant less efficient at photosynthesising therefore requiring more light. One should use these differences in light requirements when planning the overall layout i.e. “lower light†plants should be shaded by the “higher light†plants. Examples of plant species that grow in the very low to low lighting bracket include Anubias, Cryptocoryne, Java fern and various mosses. This said, most of these will still benefit from more light.
TYPES OF LIGHTING
There are many types of lighting, there is the T12 fluorescent (1.5†diameter), the most commonly used is the T8 (1â€) then there is the T5 (5/8thâ€). T5 come in HO (high output) and PC (power compact), this allows for deeper penetration in the tank, useful for tanks above 24"/ 60cm. And the relatively new concept lighting - the T6 (also 1"). T6 are able to fit in the T8 ballasts, but they also give out 40% more light. The lower the number, the more efficient the tube. The number after the 'T' is the size of the tube. Other available lighting is Metal Halides (MH), these are useful for large or deep tanks but they are inefficient due to the heat they produce.
Full-Spectrum (Tri-Phosphor) Lamps
Widely regarded as the best light for growing aquarium plants is the full-spectrum lamp although no data has been provided to support this. This means that the light output peaks in three (regular T8s peak in two) colours giving a “fuller†light more likely to meet the plant’s photosynthesising requirements. Photosynthesis occurs most efficiently with peaks in the red, green and a bit of the blue parts of the spectrum. Plants are adaptable and will change their pigment distribution and content to adjust to the available spectrum. Most full-spectrum lamps will give a cool white light, ideal for both plants and for viewing and will have a high Colour Rendition Index (CRI) meaning that the illuminated objects will appear in their natural colour, these tubes are not produced for plants, but for the human eye, it is what looks best to you.
Overhead Luminaires are a great way to add extra lighting, they clip on the glass and hang over the tank. Some models come with two switches so that is possible to have all the tubes running halfway through the lighting period to imitate a midday burst of sunlight. Luminaires are also more asthetically pleasing due to the fact that you cant see the rim of the hood.
For nano's, there are some smaller versions such as the Arc Pod which are available in 9w and 11w.
There are cheaper alternatives, such as these available off ebay which I have recently purchased and are so far good value for money.
Another way to add extra lighting is to buy the tubes and fit them into the existing hood. The tubes usually come supplied with clips which screw on. Here is how i have done mine on my Fluval Elite 60:
COLOUR TEMPERATURE
This is the colour of the tube’s output measured in degrees Kelvin (K). The 'best' colour temperature for plant growth replicates daylight at around noon on the Earth’s equator and is approx. 5500K to 6500K. This is a white light and is normally produced by full-spectrum lamps. There are other tri-phosphor lamps available which give varying colour temps ranging from 3000K to 10000K. The lower the colour temperature the redder the light, the higher the temperature the bluer. I have heard of and experienced success stories with a wide range of colour temperatures. I would recommend having a K between 5500k – 11 000k, but to be honest as long as there is enough light, then don’t worry to much about the Kelvin, The spectrum is far more important (Red, Green and a bit of Blue).
LIGHT CONTROL UNITS (BALLASTS)
These provide the power to the fluorescent tube(s). Two main types are sold - magnetic and electronic. Magnetic are less efficient as a lot of the power supplied is wasted in heat i.e. a 40W tube may use 100W total power (40W for the light, 60W wasted in heat). One advantage is that they are cheaper to purchase and are known to be very reliable (in particular the Arcadia ballasts). Electronic ballasts are a lot more efficient giving off virtually no heat; they are also a lot lighter (weight) but they are more expensive. Both types of units can power either single or two tubes. Magnetic ballast will start with a 'flicker' which means the tube last less time. This is why people suggest changing each year. Lamps on an electronic ballast will start after a half second delay with no flicker and therefore don't deteriorate so quickly. These can last 2 years+ before there is sufficient deterioration, thats they need changing.
REFLECTORS
Reflectors (also known as light-enhancers) are a simple way of increasing the light intensity and efficiency. All the light available is reflected toward the plants. It is the cheapest and easiest way of getting the most from your lighting. To retain maximum efficiency the reflectors and tubes must be cleaned regularly.
LIGHTING DURATION (PHOTOPERIOD)
Lighting should be on for 8-10hours a day, plants do not recognise photoperiods of less than 4 hours. Lighting can be switched on and off when you like, a ‘midday burst’ can be added when additional lighting is turned on for 2 hours to recreate the sun at its highest point. Some people also recommend having your lighting on for:- 5hr ON 2hr OFF 5hr ON – This is supposed to keep algae at bay and it is useful when using DIY CO2 or fermentation kits, this is called a ‘siesta’ period. I have tried using this technique and for me it didn’t work, if anything, it was damaging to the plants they will prefer 10hours straight. Plants are supposed to adapt to a small dark period whereas algae is supposedly not so adaptable - but it is!!. Recommended siesta periods can be from 1 hour to 3 hours with a minimum of 4 hours of lighting either side of the siesta. Try to stay away from this technique, i was just highlighting the meaning of it.
Timers are a very effective and convenient method of controlling photoperiods. One can set the timer to switch off at a time most suitable to the viewer. I have my lights switch off just before i go to bed and i keep them on 8-10hours straight.
When first setting up your aquarium, it is becoming more popular to run the light for 6hrs per day. This minimizes the chances of algae growth while the balance is still unstable in the tank.
To summarise - If you wish to have a long-term successful heavily planted aquarium, full of lush growing plants then I would recommend having approximatley 1-1.5wpg. This will slow growth so the tank will have a longer period of time to mature.
If you wish to have a short-term successful planted aquarium, then i would reccomend 2-2.5wpg of lighting. Going higher than 2.5wpg becomes difficult to create a balance, and there is a much higher chace of algae growth. However you MUST inject CO2 and fertilise regularly if these light levels are achieved. A balance must be kept between Lighitng, CO2 & Fertilisation to prevent algae blooms. More light requires more CO2 and nutrients (aim for a constant 25 to 30ppm of CO2).
I hope this may help to answer some of your queries.
Thanks for reading, Aaron
it was a long time since i wrote it, i learn something new everyday lol.