Juwel rio 180 ballast wiring help

[maffas85]

Hi i have a juwel rio 180 and developed a problem with the light unit and narrowed it down to being the ballast, i purchased a new ballast from iquatics but can't figure out how to wire it up, im normally handy at stuff like this but this has me stumped.
Is there anybody who could point me in the right direction as to which wire goes where
The top ballast in the pictures is my new ballast and as you can see it is totally different and has an extra connection point, any help would be much appreciated.

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[maffas85]

Anybody?

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[kadoxu]

Drawing both the schematics with a similar lamp layout can probably help you. They seem o be quite similar (if you're not too much attention to the numbers), but the one on the right has number 4 making things a bit different.
Contacting iQuatics is probably your best chance.

 

[kadoxu]

They have wiring instructions on the website as well. Try giving them a read.
http://www.iquaticsonline.co.uk/wp/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Ballast-Instructions-2.pdf

 

[ian_m]

The two ballasts are not quite the same, the Juwel uses some clever high voltage to "fire"/start both tubes at the same time.

Basically you need to add an extra wire here on the Juwel wiring within the unit.

This makes the wiring suitable for the iQuatics ballast.

Juwel wire 1 to iQuatics pin 1
Juwel wire 2 to iQuatics pin 2
Juwel wire 6 to iQuatics pin 3
Juwel new wire to iQuatics pin 4
Juwel wire 5 to iQuatics pin 5
Juwel wire 3 to iQuatics pin 6
Juwel wire 4 to iQuatics pin 7

Couple of other points, are you really sure the Juwel ballast has gone, they are normally pretty reliable (apart from water/condensation issues) ? With Juwel ballasts failure of one tube causes no light from other tube.

Also, have been there and done that (ie replaced ballast) I was never able to seal the lighting unit up again 100% reliable and suffered condensation causing RCD trips and ballast not starting.

First tried sealing using silicone, but that doesn't really bond to the plastic and water/condensation got in. Mind you silicone easily pulled off for next attempt at sealing.

2nd more successful attempt was hot glue. In fact some special hot glue sticks from RS (rswww.com) that are high temperature (hot glue for plastic I seem to remember) and soften the plastic slightly getting a better bond. This lasted years, but eventually water got in....

Eventually replaced with a new T5 unit, before ending up with a monsterous light of the an iQuatics 4 tube unit. The iQuatics units are Juwel length compatible and can be taken apart quite easily for maintenance.

 

[Lee77]

Eventually replaced with a new T5 unit, before ending up with a monsterous light of the an iQuatics 4 tube unit. The iQuatics units are Juwel length compatible and can be taken apart quite easily for maintenance.

Hi Ian,
I have also got an iQuatics 4 tube t5 unit on my Rio 180.
Just wondering what bulbs you have in it?
I'm running the ones that came with the unit but I think I have too high light.
Look forward to hearing your thoughts and experience with it !

 

[ian_m]

Morning...

I have the 4x35W iQuatics unit on my Vision 180. Personally I thought the supplied iQuatics tubes too red/pink for my liking, so replaced two tubes with Juwel HiLite Day tubes (from my Juwel T5 unit) and I think the tank looks better.

I run mine on a controller https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-to-use-a-plc-to-control-your-fish-tank.42993/ where I can select timing for 2 tubes on and 4 tubes on.

So my light comes on with two tubes 1/2 hour before switching all 4 on. My two tubes rotate which two are on, to wear all tubes evenly (probably not necessary as tube life is probably at least 5 years)

With just 2 tubes and reflectors you are well and truly in the "high light" region. With 4 tubes your are high high high "algae in the blink of an eye" light region. Your CO2 injection and distribution will need to be spot on to support 4 tubes or else you will vaporise your plants to algae.