JBL Cristalprofi 901E - filter media upgrade(?)

[Shinobi]

So I'm currently pretty happy with my JBL 901e that i have installed on my 60p. The very low amount of noise, and decent flow seems to fit the tank quite well. However 10+ weeks into the filters life I'm still seeing some pretty high spikes in NO2, despite low feeding and 2x WC weekly with about 50% - and I'm thinking of replacing some of the stock media the filter came with, without having to sacrifice to much flow performance?.
Does anyone have any suggestions to what media/combination I should be using, preferably based on personal experience.

Best regards.

 

[Paul Sabucchi]

Biohome mini would probably be the best option. I think the issue though is not having cycled the tank properly BEFORE putting the fish in. A fishless cycle done to the point that 24 hours after adding 4 ppm ammonia gives you readings of 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and only nitrates in my opinion is the best eay to get a tank ready

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[dw1305]

Hi all,

However 10+ weeks into the filters life I'm still seeing some pretty high spikes in NO2

Do you have a picture of the tank? and how are you measuring nitrite (NO2-)?

A fishless cycle done to the point that 24 hours after adding 4 ppm ammonia gives you readings of 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and only nitrates in my opinion is the best way to get a tank ready

It definitely isn't.

You don't need to add ammonia to a planted tank. Plant/microbe biological filtration is much more efficient than <"microbe only"> bio-filtration.

cheers Darrel

 

[Shinobi]

Hi all, Do you have a picture of the tank? and how are you measuring nitrite (NO2-)?It definitely isn't.

You don't need to add ammonia to a planted tank. Plant/microbe biological filtration is much more efficient than <"microbe only"> bio-filtration.

cheers Darrel

Yes I keep the journal "ADA 60p Reach out" it's been updated today with pictures. Fish verent added until week 6 I believe.

Also I measure with JBL drop tests

 

[Paul Sabucchi]

So how come he is still getting pretty high spikes of NO2 (assuming the readings are correct)? I aggree with you that plants and algae can process nitrogenous waste as if not more efficiently than bactetia but at the end of the day I will only feel safe introducing ammonia producing fish in the tank only once I have acrually ascertained the tank/filter as a system can process a reasonable level of ammonia. Anyways the question was what was the best biological media we could recomend. I personally rate Biohome, Seachem Matrix and Sera Siporax but each company blows their own trumpet so difficult to tell which is the most effective.

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[dw1305]

Hi all,

I will only feel safe introducing ammonia producing fish in the tank only once I have acrually ascertained the tank/filter as a system can process a reasonable level of ammonia

I totally agree. The problem is that adding ammonia and then testing to decide when the NH3 and NO2 have fallen to safe levels doesn't really help very much in this process.

The whole concept of a binary switch between "cycled" and "non-cycled" is wrong. Scientists look at water pollution in terms of Biochemical Oxygen Demand (BOD), and oxygen is really the key to nitrification. Have a look at <"Filtering the scape"> and <"New tank,...."> (and linked threads).

Yes I keep the journal "ADA 60p Reach out" it's been updated today with pictures

So how come he is still getting pretty high spikes of NO2 (assuming the readings are correct)?

I think the photographs (<"in the journal">) indicate pretty conclusively that the problem lies with the test kit, not the tank. Water testing is a much less straightforward than most people assume. From <"let's see....mix.....">

When I originally started <"looking at water chemistry in aquariums">, I expected to find kits, meters and techniques that would fulfill the criteria of producing accurate and reproduce-able results. After a while it became obvious that this was going to be problematic.

I'm not saying that <"you can't get accurate results from water testing">, you can, but there are certain proviso's.

I started using the "duckweed index" because it is difficult to get accurate parameters for a lot of nutrients without some very expensive kit.

I had a datum to compare the test kit results to, because I work in a facility with an analytical lab. and the staff who use Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometers, HPLC etc every day, and in the UK, you can request water quality data for your domestic water data, from your water supplier.

Anyways the question was what was the best biological media we could recomend. I personally rate Biohome, Seachem Matrix and Sera Siporax but each company blows their own trumpet so difficult to tell which is the most effective.

"Eheim Substrat Pro" ("Coco-pops") if some-one else is buying them, there is a discussion in <"What filter media..... ">.

cheers Darrel

 

[Millns84]

I've got a JBL e1501 on my 65. I found that there was way too much sponge in there and the pre-filter was obsolete as I use an Eheim pre-filter on the inlet.

I replaced the pre-filter sponge in the filter with medium foam, then used the bottom tray for another layer of medium foam and one layer of fine foam. The two trays above that are both filled with a mix of Seachem Matrix and JBL Micromec and then filter floss/purigen in the top tray. No issues with parameters since installing two months ago.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

as I use an Eheim pre-filter on the inlet.

I replaced the pre-filter sponge in the filter with medium foam, then used the bottom tray for another layer of medium foam and one layer of fine foam. The two trays above that are both filled with a mix of Seachem Matrix and JBL Micromec and then filter floss/purigen in the top tray. No issues with parameters since installing two months ago.

Because you have the Eheim pre-filter you could try taking the fine foam & floss out of the filter itself.

There isn't anything intrinsically wrong with having this sort of mechanical filtration, but it needs changing frequently to avoid it clogging and limiting flow (and oxygen) within the filter.

I clean the pre-filter weekly, and the hoses ~every month, but I don't have any fine mechanical filtration media in the filter (just biological media) and this means that I only need to open the filter body once every 6 months or so.

cheers Darrel

 

[Millns84]

Hi all,
Because you have the Eheim pre-filter you could try taking the fine foam & floss out of the filter itself.

There isn't anything intrinsically wrong with having this sort of mechanical filtration, but it needs changing frequently to avoid it clogging and limiting flow (and oxygen) within the filter.

You're right, I have to clean the pre-filter every three days or so and the filter floss is replaced weekly. The fine foam lasts a good couple of months before it restricts flow though.

I'd rather have extra clear water though as whenever I've not run the floss, I always get a slight cloudy effect.