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Hygrophila guianensis

John P Coates

Member
Joined
21 Feb 2014
Messages
164
Location
Bracknell
Hi Folks, I have had an Hygrophila guianensis in my tank for a couple of weeks. Overall, it is in very good condition but I am noticing that the topmost leaves are going slightly translucent, slightly yellow and this, in turn, is causing the darker green veins to stand out. CO2 concentration in the water is around 12 ppm and the light is 80 - 110 (PAR). The plant substrate is Tetra Complete topped with JBL Manado. Phosphate and nitrate are < 0.02 ppm and 5 ppm, respectively. The tank was dosed with Tropica Liquid Fertilizer a few days ago. All other plants are fine. Any suggestions, please?
 
a) 12 ppm is probably not true, but if so it's to low
b) 80-110 PAR is hight light: you need to dose ferts 3/4 times a week in large quantitiies (including N and P)
c)
testkits lie

Post #2 and #3 are the short version, the whole tutorial forum functions as the large version, have a read there🙂
 
Thanks, guys. I thought that, because the other plants were growing rapidly and looking good, I had got the mix of lighting, CO2 and micronutrients about right. I've also not got a problem with algae apart from a few very small tufts on my Cryptocoryne petchii. So, I will take on board your comments. I'll also double-check the CO2 concentration. Would you care to recommend a liquid fert to supplement my Tropica Liquid Fertilizer (which doesn't contain nitrate or phosphate)? Thanks again.
 
Look at the EI method, cheap and effective. Just buy the dry ferts and mix them yourselves. I used to take 5 teaspoons KNO3, 2 teaspoon KHPO4 and 1 teaspoon MGSO4, put them in a liter scalding hot water, stirr till solved and chuck it in m y sump, and i did it three times a week, Two times a week i did the same with a teaspoon CSM+B. This is a large tank, i wouldn't like to do these amounts with any brand, far far more costly. SInce i went low tech on this tank i still do the same regime just in lower amounts.
 
I did look at the EI method a while ago. It seemed to involve a lot of work. I don't mind this too much if it's necessary but I don't really understand why we are adding fertilizer to the water column. In order to minimize the possibility of an algae outbreak, is it not better to ensure a nutrient-rich substrate? And, if some plants are high users of nutrients, can these not be supplemented by adding root fertilizers like the JBL Kugeln balls or Tropica capsules? You guys are the experts so I welcome your comments.
 
It seemed to involve a lot of work
1) order ferts, 2) put them in some water, 3) add to the tank regularly 🙄
Hard to believe i know, but ferts never cause algae. To much light, to little CO2, insufficient circulation, dirty tanks all these can cause algae, but never to much ferts. (i know i know all and everyone state otherwise, but here we learn the truth: ferts don't cause algae)
The whole EI idea is to have plenty nutrients for the plants to use at their growthspeed, be it high lights/high CO2 or low lights/low CO2
 
1) order ferts, 2) put them in some water, 3) add to the tank regularly 🙄
Hard to believe i know, but ferts never cause algae. To much light, to little CO2, insufficient circulation, dirty tanks all these can cause algae, but never to much ferts. (i know i know all and everyone state otherwise, but here we learn the truth: ferts don't cause algae)
The whole EI idea is to have plenty nutrients for the plants to use at their growthspeed, be it high lights/high CO2 or low lights/low CO2
Hi Edvet,

Thanks for the clarification.

I was under the impression that the EI approach required a lot of very frequent water changes - far more than would be the case without the EI approach. I'm no stranger to water changes as I carry these out for the fish I keep.

I cannot get my head around the science of the EI method. Perhaps I need to do some more reading. I think so.
 
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