• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

How often do I need to change Drop checker solution?

I usually redo it when i change co2 tanks or if i knock the solution into the tank.
 
I had they same question I was going to post. I have read on here an old tutorial that states weekly after water change and this advice is echoed by CO2Art. Personally I cannot see why this would be the case unless you have build up of biofilm that could inhibit effectiveness, there is some reason the solution becomes 'stale', or ingress with tank water? As I am not experienced in this matter and new to using Co2 I would have thought @Zeus. advice from his experience is what I would choose. I am sure there are many other opinions on this.
 
Edit..... "from his experience is what I would choose" would be around monthly.

This seems to be the advice from Co2 Supermarket.
 
In some cases, a drop checkers airlock is an ideal place for bacteria to have a party. It's warm and moist and they will grow and reproduce and form a slimy film in and around the drop checker entrance and it can cover the entrance completely. This can form within a week... :)

Some have it often (all the time) others never, don't ask me why... And if you have it you'll clean it.

ukaps.org

Drop checker “sludge”

I have this style indicator I have noticed that after a few days it will display a strong yellow indication, and have a cloudy slime build up at the orifice. Once I clean the foul smelling slime out of the way it goes back to green. Firstly, what is causing this? Secondly, shall I just by...
ukaps.org

www.plantedtank.net

Whats is that slime in the Drop checker?

www.plantedtank.net www.plantedtank.net
 
A quick weekly clean with the water change as maintenance is more appropriate rather than having to change the solution then?
 
What about aquarium water evaporation inside the drop checker which then condensing and diluting the solution?
 
MrClockOff said:
What about aquarium water evaporation inside the drop checker which then condensing and diluting the solution?
Click to expand...

It depends, if you have a hang on drop checker that is outside the tank then there might be a significant temperature difference causing condensation in the drop checker. But then the drop checker likely still is too close to the heat source to be significantly different in temperature. I guess it's neglectable.

If it's an in-tank drop checker where the temperature is in perfect equilibrium then there only will be a gas exchange.

Luvlyjub said:
A quick weekly clean with the water change as maintenance is more appropriate rather than having to change the solution then?
Click to expand...

The best practice would be to make a DIY solution then you can make a gallon of the stuff for the same price as the small 100ml bottle from the LFS.
And you could change it every day for years before you run out of it. :)

Where can i get a big bottle of drop checker solution??

Can't seem to find a big bottle anymore, where does everyone get theirs? Or do you make it? Thanks
ukaps.org
 
On a separate drop checker topic as the hang on version was mentioned does the diameter of the tube then in the tank matter compared to the standard in tank design that is much wider?

Only that I was thinking of changing to this type for ease of reading colour. I find it difficult in the tank and I have colour deficiency (old school colour blindness) I find it hard to distinguish between lime green and yellow - especially in the tank. As I am in CO2 testing phase I am not dialled in (or so I think!) to this lime green yet.
 
I used them both at the same time and didn't experience any difference in readings... After a while, I started playing with the Hang on the top idea to make the drop checker outside the tank but viewable from where ever you stand in the room. It might be something you like to try out, but you need to DIY it.

ukaps.org

Hang on the top drop checker

Unfortunately i broke my glassware hang on dropchecker, so i had to reach back to my in tank dropchecker. We all kinda know the so called transparant sucker cups, not realy so transparant anymore after hanging a day in the water.. They always kinda stick out like a sore thumb, getting white and...
ukaps.org ukaps.org

dscf7072-jpg.jpg
 
Hi all,
zozo said:
The best practice would be to make a DIY solution then you can make a gallon of the stuff for the same price as the small 100ml bottle from the LFS.
And you could change it every day for years before you run out of it.
Click to expand...
Definitely a <"cheaper option">.

You would need to buy some <"bromothymol blue"> pH indicator. There are <"sellers on eBay"> and you can get "bicarbonate of soda" (NaHCO3) in Sainsburys etc.
Because NaHCO3 is really cheap to buy I would start with <"3g of NaHCO3 made up to 500 mL with DI water"> to give you a 400 dKH stock solution, and dilute from there.
Click to expand...
cheers Darrel
 
Luvlyjub said:
On a separate drop checker topic as the hang on version was mentioned does the diameter of the tube then in the tank matter compared to the standard in tank design that is much wider?

Only that I was thinking of changing to this type for ease of reading colour. I find it difficult in the tank and I have colour deficiency (old school colour blindness) I find it hard to distinguish between lime green and yellow - especially in the tank. As I am in CO2 testing phase I am not dialled in (or so I think!) to this lime green yet.
Click to expand...

Yes, the diameter of the tube does matter in terms of the time it takes to equilbrate the gas-phase CO2 concentration. Bigger diameter equilibrates faster. I did see a side-by-side comparison of the effect on UKAPS but forget where - maybe some can find the thread?

For your colour blindness, if you have an illuminated white background behind the tank and look through the in-tank drop checker at this illuminated white background, there are really great mobile phone apps that will sort this for you. I use Color Grab (Color Grab (color detection) - Apps on Google Play) and have found the hue reading (H in HSV) is a straightforward indicator of pH. For a standard 4 dKH drop checker solution in a 25C aquarium, you can use the table below to read off the pH of the drop checker and the CO2 of the aquarium from the hue of the drop checker.
pH in drop checkerhue (H of decimal HSV)CO2 (ppm)
657140
6.26488
6.46956
6.67635
6.88622
711214
7.21619
7.41876
7.62024
7.82162
I aim for CO2 in the 35-40 ppm range which would be hue values around 74 or 75.
 
Hi all,
Andy Pierce said:
For your colour blindness, if you have an illuminated white background behind the tank and look through the in-tank drop checker at this illuminated white background, there are really great mobile phone apps that will sort this for you. I use Color Grab (Color Grab (color detection) - Apps on Google Play) and have found the hue reading (H in HSV) is a straightforward indicator of pH. For a standard 4 dKH drop checker solution in a 25C aquarium, you can use the table below to read off the pH of the drop checker and the CO2 of the aquarium from the hue of the drop checker.
pH in drop checkerhue (H of decimal HSV)CO2 (ppm)
657140
6.26488
6.46956
6.67635
6.88622
711214
7.21619
7.41876
7.62024
7.82162
I aim for CO2 in the 35-40 ppm range which would be hue values around 74 or 75.
Click to expand...
That is a useful chart and app.

cheers Darrel
 
Many thanks Andy,

It is very difficult to explain to people what it's like not seeing colour correctly and the biggest challenge are shades that for me tend to merge and I guess the colour.

That is a very useful chart and I will try this. I did download that APP a while back to try and use for a reference with colour testing for JBL liquid test kits. But I found the colour in the sample varied with the camera in different areas and light reflection whereas the colour in the book is a clear block. Would it be possible to apply the same Hue value to these tests if known?

I have been running a PH profile the last 2 days and I thought the optimum 30 ppm was also subject to the KH level combined with the PH? As my KH is 7 and PH drop is 6.85 end of day that seems about right without going too far? I will probably start a new thread on this topic as have some questions that I am sure have been answered a number of times and apologies in advance if I ask stupid questions.
 
Just tried the colour grab in-tank but no white background. CO2 off since 4.30 with Hue 115 but this changes if you move around the spotting circle that I see you can adjust in size. PH read with meter was 7.1. Anyway the good thing is that it tells me the colour is green :thumbup:
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20211001-175158_Color Grab.jpg
    Screenshot_20211001-175158_Color Grab.jpg
    934.5 KB · Views: 139
Luvlyjub said:
Just tried the colour grab in-tank but no white background. CO2 off since 4.30 with Hue 115 but this changes if you move around the spotting circle that I see you can adjust in size. PH read with meter was 7.1. Anyway the good thing is that it tells me the colour is green :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Looks like it's working, but I recommend not just a white background, but an illuminated white background. If you have a white piece of paper behind the tank and shine a flashlight on it from the side that can work. In my experience, you're looking for the app to measure transmitted light rather than reflected for most consistent results. I can confirm that the colour in the picture you enclosed looks green to me. ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top