High PH

Discussion in 'Water Chemistry' started by Tommy, 27 Oct 2018.

  1. Tommy

    Tommy Member

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    Got the Co2 up and running with a bubble per second, lots of little bubbles in the tank. Ive got the drop checker in, its blue at the min so will wait a few hours and see what colour it is then. :)
     
  2. alto

    alto Member

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    1 bps is a good conservative start for both fish and plants
    I don’t recall which fish you have - or which plants :oops:
    But as plants have been surviving without additional CO2, I’d increase CO2 at a rate comfortable for fish - they need to do some biochemical changes to adapt to higher CO2 levels and this takes a few days to get going and a couple weeks to really settle
     
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  3. alto

    alto Member

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    OK 240l aquarium so I’d likely increase to 2bps tomorrow as long as fish seem fine
     
  4. Tommy

    Tommy Member

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    Don't have any fish in yet alto, want to get the tank set up properly before I start to add them. I have anubias, bucephalandras, cryps, java ferns, a ludwigia, a bacopa and moss mate. :)
     
  5. Zeus.

    Zeus. Member

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    240L is pretty big tank.

    I would not do it the same way as 'Alto' suggested not that he is wrong OFC as he has far more experience than me :thumbup:

    You have no livestock ATM so perfect time to setup the CO2. You dont need a pH pen but one is very handy to check your pH profile is stable once the lights are on. But you could start using the CO2 but if the [CO2] is fluctuating once the lights come on the plants will suffer if the [CO2]/pH fluctuates esp in the first 4-5hours. If you cant afford a decent pH pen I would go for some decent pH test strips but dont know which ones to advised as I have always used a pH pen/probe/controller.

    You could go down the CO2 on 24/7 route as some do but it does use more CO2 OFC. But it does make things easier esp seeing the plants you have a dark green DC may be more than enough dependant on your light output

    I have used a cheap pH pen is the past and did find it useful but not to measure the pH drop per sa but just to measure if its stable and to ignore the actual reading value if that makes sense. So if it says says 7.10ph or 6.10pH it doesnt mater its the relative change it shows from lights on for first 4-5hours or till CO2 off. This method is subject to the errors the cheapo pH pens but with just justing the relative change after the Main pH drop IMO it minimises the errors in the actual pH reading. If going down this route still calibrate the pH pen but dont expect it to read the same valve day after day your just going of the relative change

    If you have a high output light, with your CO2 equipment I would start the CO2 at a reasonable high BPS with the DC in the tank, the DC needs to be in a place where it doesnt catch any CO2 bubbles. Then allow 2-3hrs to allow the [CO2] to reach equilibrium in the tank then you need to wait 2 hrs for the DC to change colour and stay at that colour , I would aim for yellowish/green first then dial back a bit on the BPS esp if it goes yellow. After 2hrs of CO2 being on use the cheap pH pen and start measure the pH and see if it remains relatively stable for the rest of the CO2 period esp from lights on using paper and pen and make a note of time and pH as you soon forget when you last did it, do it every 30mins

    Also we have very little details of your tank like filter output lights etc and a FTS helps too. Plus the flow/turnover in the tank needs to be good esp with a 240l tank. Setting up CO2 on a tank is very hard to do right.

    After writing all that I think the method 'Alto suggested would be the best bet as small steps as a beginner to CO2 will help you understand whats happening which will help you get the CO2 right :thumbup: But try using the cheapo pH pen after lights on as it may help
     
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  6. Tommy

    Tommy Member

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    Hi Zeus, thanks for the detailed reply. So today Co2 on at 11 Lights on at 1, at 1-35 drop check was still blue so I increased the bubble count, went out to a LFS to get some plants, 4-45 drop checker was dark green, so increased the bubble count again, 8 is Co2 off so checked DC again it is lime green. Here's some pics of the tank and the drop checker. :)

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    IMG_4509.JPG

    Let me know if my placement of the Co2 Diffuser and Drop Checker is in the right place and if the DC looks ok, Thanks :)
     
  7. Tommy

    Tommy Member

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    When do you get the see the plants pearling off the Co2? cant wait for that it looks great in my opinion :)
     
  8. alto

    alto Member

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    :lol:
    No fish then no worries on working out the CO2 kinks
     
  9. alto

    alto Member

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    24/7 CO2 is very useful if tank receives even low ambient light - I was surprised at how low that light can be and still “trigger” Rotala ‘Vietnam H’ra’ to “open” its leaves ... I tried to convince it to an evening photoperiod, 4pm - 11pm but it would “close” it’s leaves by 5pm
    Tank is in a dim corner under the stairs :wideyed:

    I also like 24/7 CO2 for a Tropica’s 1-2- Grow plants, I run lower bps during during the 24/7 period, transitioning to photoperiod CO2 once plants are actively growing, adding fish etc
     
  10. Tommy

    Tommy Member

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    So does everything look ok so far mate?
     
  11. Zeus.

    Zeus. Member

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    Is your water intake and output on opposite sided of the tank? if so best next to each other 'if you can'
    DC position is fine to start with, once you get the BPS that gets the colour change your after, then you can move it arround to see if the [CO2] is the same all over the tank.
    Remember Tank turnover (flow) is KING in a high tech tank ( yes there are folk who do great things with low tank turnover but they are experienced )
    CO2 bubbles don't seem to be reaching other side of tank (far right)
     
  12. Tommy

    Tommy Member

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    Yes one of my filters intake is on the left as theres no room on the right. My filters have 3 outlets all on the right. How could I improve the flow? add a wavemaker on left hand side? Co2 bubbles are drifting up through the middle, some reach but you have to look for them. :)
     
  13. Zeus.

    Zeus. Member

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    play with the way their jets move the water as some jet positions/angles will give better flow its all trial and error ;)
     
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