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Help heater melted silicon! how to seal

Johnn

Seedling
Joined
4 Jan 2018
Messages
13
Location
Uk
I noticed today that my heater has came away from the inside of my tank with the tip sat on the bottom of the tank. This tank has no substrate and now i moved the heater i can see one raised bubble around 1cm diameter in/under the silicon seal on the bottom piece of glass.

Thank the fish gods its resealed itself around the bubble aha
How do I go about resealing the bubble? Pop it and fill?
From the reflection it looks like the side of the bubble has gone about 1 to 2mm underneath the side pane which is around 5mm thick.
Im guessing i pop the bubble and fill it with silicon till it oozes out?
 
Could try filling with aquatic silicone. Thoroughly clean with IPA/meths first to remove all dirt & grease.

Main issue you will have is silicone doesn't generally stick to already set silicone. This is why if you make your own tank, you have to silicone in one go, no leaving overnight to continue silicone the next day.
 
If it isn't leaking, I'd leave it alone. Otherwise, your best bet is to tear the whole aquarium apart, remove all the silicone, and put it back together.
 
Pop it and fill?

For easthetic reason you could do this.. But it likely wont hold any sealing propperties. If it is inside and submersed you could try to fill it with TEC7 TRANS. That's an absolute non toxic polymer that cures submersed.. What you could try is take a plastic syringe, fill it with some kit from the top, put the plunger back in put a needle on it and stick this it in the bubble and slowly fill it up. If there aint to much dirt on the glas inside the bubble the kit will mask it beeing there once it is completely filled again with kit. You can even do this without draining the tank.

If the tank aint leaking yet, than it is what it is, keep an eye on it and hope is all you can do. It also all depends a bit on the volume of the tank, tanks up to 100 litres do not hold a vast ammount of pressure and a minimum of strain with temp differnces in relation to surface area. Imagine glass expands when it gets warmer and retracts when it cools again that's a few 0.1 milimeters per meter larger glass surface multiplies this creating more strain on the seals. In winter time with cold nights and warm days with central heating, temps fluctuate in the tank making the glass constantly work and straining the kit. This likely is the cause that some tanks show loos seams after some years of use. Depending on how clean it was and kit quality during constrution.

It likely aint melted, because kit doesn't realy change consistancy at temperatures bellow 180°C. But the glas does, so actualy there is a constant slight friction between glass and kit and streching it. Most heaters submersed can't reach a higher temp than 100°, because water starts boiling at 100°C. Remember that oldschool physics classroom demonstration, boiling water in a paper vessel above a gas burner.. 🙂 Heaters getting hotter boil the water and you hear the bubbles pop from the heater element.

As said it the risk all depends a bit on the volume, i still got a 25 litre tank in use for years and it has a chipped off corner at the bottom. It bumped somewhere during transportation and chipped some glas, that's why it got discarded by it's previous owner and i'm stil using it. If it were a 250 litre tank than i would not dare to fill it up again and take it in use. 🙂 Tanks up till 100 litres have a redundant kit job anyway and are relative to it's glas thicknes, volume and weight awfully strong. Going larger it gets less redundant and higher risks and need more precise construction.
 
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I was planning on moving everything out of this tank soon anyway, I'm going to drain it fully, use a pin and syringe method, would normal aquarium safe silicon do the job or is the stuff mentioned stronger? Side pane is 6mm and base pane is 10mm, tank is just under 100 litre
 
So u reckon the heater heated up the glass which then heated the silicon? Not directly from the heater making contact with the silicon?
Its a jager heater, is scalding hot to the touch if out the tank when on. It doesn't go off n back on like some heaters it stays on constantly till the temp is reached
 
would normal aquarium safe silicon do the job or is the stuff mentioned stronger?

Silicone will do as well 🙂 But it needs to cure 24 hours.. The Tec7 polymer as said cures submersed and is non toxic, than you could fix it without draining the tank. It is widely used for leaking pond repairs and temporary leaking tank repairs. If it is stronger than silicone i do not realy know.. But i know it is not suitable for complete glas aquarium assambly as a silicone alternative. Because polymer still absorbs a percentage water after it's cured. Than with a glas to glas connection water will slowly creep in between the polymer and glas and likely start to leak after a few years. So Tec7 is not for aquarium building, but ok for patch work.. 🙂 and or glueing hardscape etc.
 
So u reckon the heater heated up the glass which then heated the silicon?

No i rather reckon it is coincidence the bubble appeared close to the heater. 🙂 Aqaurium heaters as long as they are submersed don't get hot enough to damage glas or silicone..
 
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