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Glutaraldehyde!

What is the stabilizing agent used in your glutaraldehyde product?
Storage conditions?
Bottle?
(eg, brown glass with air proof lid? especially helpful as this allows observation of any formed precipitates in which case, dispose as per legal requirements in your country)
You are supposed to discard the stabilizer/activator and never add it to the Glutaldehyde product. For Metricide brand, the activator is sodium nitrite, which is very toxic to fish. Nitrite is a reducing agent that is used to preserve meat. I am not sure why Glut needs to to be activated before its original intent use. Other brands use different activator that can be phosphate, acetate, etc but just don’t add it if you don’t know what it is.

https://metrex.com/sites/default/fi.../msds-us-en-metricide-28-liquid-activator.pdf

https://bio-medical.com/media/support/metricide_28_directions_for_use.pdf
 
You are supposed to discard the stabilizer/activator and never add it to the Glutaldehyde product.

Yeah, this is important info for anyone making up their own using 50% concentration for example and diluting down. As you say the activator should be discarded.

Also, using a FMP2 respirator mask or higher with goggles and prepared in the open air when dealing with it in higher concentrations.

Storage temperature range will affect lifespan. Guidance safety sheet which accompanies purchases of glutaraldehyde will contain exact info in the UK.
 
You are supposed to discard the stabilizer/activator and never add it to the Glutaldehyde product. For Metricide brand, the activator is sodium nitrite, which is very toxic to fish. Nitrite is a reducing agent that is used to preserve meat. I am not sure why Glut needs to to be activated before its original intent use. Other brands use different activator that can be phosphate, acetate, etc but just don’t add it if you don’t know what it is.

https://metrex.com/sites/default/fi.../msds-us-en-metricide-28-liquid-activator.pdf

https://bio-medical.com/media/support/metricide_28_directions_for_use.pdf

There are a couple of things to be aware of.
1)Met 28 contains disinfectants.. 14 does not.
2)Pretty sure the activators between the 2 are different.
3)Pretty sure one of the things the activators do is lower pH.
4) Wondering about the activator is a bit err.. pointless since neither should be used.
I was looking into it at one point just to see "if" I could use them for something else..
Not enough info.



Metrex 10-2800 MetriCide 28 High-Level Disinfectant/Sterilant, 1 gal Capacity
by Metrex


[*]Recommended for immiscible and heat-sensitive equipment and instruments
[*]Contains surfactants
[*]Activation required
[*]High-Level disinfectant/sterility 2. 5% Glutaraldehyde

MetriCide High Level Disinfectant 14 Day 1 Gallon Ea 6401519 | Metrex/TotalCare - 10-1400
[*]Description:

MetriCide High Level Disinfectant 2.6% Glutaraldehyde / No Surfactants 14 Day 1 Gallon With Activator Each


Metricide 14(prefer) and 28(stinks and soapy) are 2 different thing tho' 1 contain 2.5% and other contain 2.6% of glutaraldehyde
 
met14activator.JPG


Pretty sure this is the Met14 activator.. different than the other one (Nitrite)..
 
There are a couple of things to be aware of.
1)Met 28 contains disinfectants.. 14 does not.
2)Pretty sure the activators between the 2 are different.
3)Pretty sure one of the things the activators do is lower pH.
4) Wondering about the activator is a bit err.. pointless since neither should be used.
I was looking into it at one point just to see "if" I could use them for something else..
Not enough info.
1) I think you have misinterpreted the reference of disinfectant. Glutaldehyde is a disinfectant by itself which is the ingredient of both Met 14 and 28.
2)Met 14 and 28 refer to 14 and 28 day shelf life, respectively, after activation. Both contain about the same % of glut, and the difference between 14 and 28 is in the activator, nitrite versus phosphate, and 28 contains a surfactant that makes it soapy and stick to the surfaces. For aquarium use, 14 is the choice as it contains no surfactant.
3) Actually the other way around. Both activators will raise the pH as indicated by the pH value in their MSDS.
4) True. It's a moot point as you only want pure Glut, no activator of unknown nature and toxicity.
 
1) I think you have misinterpreted the reference of disinfectant. Glutaldehyde is a disinfectant by itself which is the ingredient of both Met 14 and 28.
2)Met 14 and 28 refer to 14 and 28 day shelf life, respectively, after activation. Both contain about the same % of glut, and the difference between 14 and 28 is in the activator, nitrite versus phosphate, and 28 contains a surfactant that makes it soapy and stick to the surfaces. For aquarium use, 14 is the choice as it contains no surfactant.
3) Actually the other way around. Both activators will raise the pH as indicated by the pH value in their MSDS.
4) True. It's a moot point as you only want pure Glut, no activator of unknown nature and toxicity.

LOL either I fell asleep typing or I missed an auto-correct.. Meant to write surfectant not disinfectant..
As to pH , I was going from memory and figured someone would correct it if I was wrong.. 50/50 chance.. ;)
 
I plan on making a 1.5% or 2% solution of glut. How much should I dose in my 35l tank to get rid of thread/hair algae?
 
I plan on making a 1.5% or 2% solution of glut. How much should I dose in my 35l tank to get rid of thread/hair algae?

If available over there, for a few dollars you could buy a 250ml bottle of this, far less risky to use.
It worked ok on our tank , though slowly over the 4 weeks you need to dose it, which is probably a lot better on the fish and plants than a big bang solution....
Easy-Life AlgExit - Easy-Life
 
After reading through the latter pages of this thread, and people's results of glute losing its strength, this will happen if mixed with tap water. Tap water has a tendency to be higher than the pH of water used commercially in mixes.
But would highly advise to not mix in anything with Glute, stabilisers, pH adjusters etc. Glute remains active constantly, unless mixed with water containing minerals and any or nutrients.
Reverse osmosis water is the only and best way of you are making your own liquid carbon mix. It should also be kept in a dark cooler place in between uses as heat does affect it. Here at work, I have to ensure our glutaraldehyde is stored in our blacked out warehouse with a constant 15 degree maintained temperature.
 
Pondering, wouldn't the best solution to be to learn to keep an aquarium without using this stuff, accepting the consequences of that and just making sure that the plants and fish are healthy and happy?
 
Sorry to dig this one up... where do people buy Glutaraldehyde from these days and is it still the best option?

Thanks
Bonnymans sell it but you may have to pay a special premium for delivery nowadays!
 
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