• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

For those at the back of the class

Onoma1

Member
Joined
12 Aug 2018
Messages
570
Location
West Yorkshire
Ok this is a slightly different kind of journal. I have seen so many inspirational tanks on the forum from those developed by new scapers and the experienced with some amazing ‘competition ready’ tanks. Looking at these tanks and working through the constructive advice provided by members has been fairly awe inspiring, tremendously helpful and provided an impetus for development.

My journey has been slightly slower with lots of false starts, wrong turns and errors. I am still very much learning about the craft of aquascaping and am acutely aware of my lack of knowledge. I know where I want to get to, however, realise that I am starting from a point where my skills and knowledge are far behind those of most of the scapers on this forum.

So this journal is about recording this journey – perhaps for other scapers on the forum that are at the ‘back of the class’ plodding along rather than the natural gifted lot! I would welcome comments or advice!

Where it started: a 60cm old tank and a first start to see if I could maintain a planted tank. This was very much an ‘experimental tank’ and put together on a budget (second-hand or re-purposed).

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/ludwigia-palustris-advice-needed.53730/

After battling Cyanobacteria, BBA, algae and learning more about the craft of growing the plants I got to the point where I was reasonably happy with this tank, closed it down and moved to the current tank.

This one was inspired by the Green Aqua Cube 360 Cube Tanks and James Findley’s Altitude Scape.

It’s a 60 x 70 x 45 tank with opitwhite to the front, back and sides. The size was determined in part by pragmatic reasons: the space available in the house and the need to reuse an existing piece of furniture as a base. The other equimpment includes: Chihiros WRGB 60cm light, an inline Hydor 300w heater, Chronos Doctor, Co2 in-line diffuser and a JBL external filter. I have also included an internal Fluvial filter to increase flow. Glass Lilly pipe and skimmer. The lights and filter are on a smart plug with a six hour light period (Co2 comes on one hour before the lights). I will replace the filters with a larger one when budget allows. The water is naturally very soft.

The design idea was to create a space with different type of planting environments - moving from a carpeted or lawn area, to a jungle area, to a rocky area planted with epiphytes and then to an emersed area. I wanted to keep it fully planted (without sand) and to learn more about using and managing stone in a hardscape before starting to scape using wood.

The objectives of this tank are to maintain an aesthetically pleasing tank, learn more about the needs of different types of plants in different environments, maintain plants in great condition - including getting the deep reds and rapid growth, learning how to keep the tank in balance and maintaining a ‘happy’ healthy population of fish.

upload_2019-1-11_10-11-52.png



AZWuln9K__1Bz3pKtvpnx_lN5yugABP1AoA=w2170-h1220-no.png



The plants introduced were:

1. Anubias Nana Petite

2. Ceratopteris cornuta

3. Cryptocoryne Bullosa

4. Cryptocoryne green gecko

5. Cryptocoryne x willisi

6. Eleocharis acicularis 'Mini' –

7. Heteranthera zosterifolia,

8. Limnophila sessiliflora

9. Ludwigia

10. Micranthemum monte carlo

11. Ranunculus inundatus

12. Rotala rotundifolia

13. Staurogyne repens

14. Pygmaea Helvola Dwarf water lily

15. Pyg Rubra Dwarf water lily


The planting has taken place over a two month period with some plants having been introduced in the last few weeks (Rotala rotundifolia and Limnophila sessiliflora)

I have also got an unknown but fairly rampant floating plant (that came with some shrimps) that I am using to shade the Anubias and the shrimp seem to love sheltering in. I was also sent a free plant with some plants I bought from a fellow member of the forum - I am not sure what this is (thin leaved plant at the center of the picture).

Livestock is a shoal of Green Neon Tetras, Nine Otocinclus, Nerite snails (one large and some small), Red Cherry Shrimp and an Amano Shrimp.


Current problems with the tank/ learning points:


1. I bought a tub of Heteranthera zosterifolia (Pets at Home) wasn’t in a great condition and while it started to grow much of the existing growth died back. Normally I would nurture a plant in my garden back to health, however, in the tank I realised that different approach was needed. It was binned.

2. Ceratopteris cornuta – is in the wrong position and is far too large and needs removing.

3. Eleocharis needs trimming

4. BBA on the Monte Carlo – this seem to have been introduced when I changed the lighting, however, seems be resolving itself as the plants becomes more established and I balance the Co2/ Fets/ Lighting again, however, is still a worry. I want to take a 'natural' approach to management of it by introducing a few more snails and removal.

5. The Lilly’s are doing well, however, they aren’t sustainable long-term and need moving into an environment with less surface flow (perhaps outside). The approach that I took here was to introduce Hardy Pigmy Lillys that could also survive within warmer tropical environments rather than more delicate tropical Lillys. The varieties were used by James Wong in some of his small indoor micro ‘ponds’.

6. The tank is too busy and the rock area is unbalanced.

7. Shrimps - I can't maintain my population. I had a set back at the start with a dodgy heater and the survivors from this attempt are 'hanging on' but not reproducing. I need to address this.

Aims for the next month include building the emersed area.

Any advice, comments for improvement or development would be welcome!
 

Attachments

  • upload_2019-1-11_10-11-3.png
    upload_2019-1-11_10-11-3.png
    1.2 MB · Views: 146
Last edited:
I like it to be honest. Although i think the tank is crying out for the background glass to be painted black. Will make the plants pop much more.

Although saying that, it looks like this photo was take just after lights on in the morning?
 
I like it to be honest. Although i think the tank is crying out for the background glass to be painted black. Will make the plants pop much more.

Although saying that, it looks like this photo was take just after lights on in the morning?

Hi Marc - thanks for the feedback. I went for a frosted white background, however, I think agree that a black background would pop the colours. Given the tank's position I can only change this when I rescape the tank. In the short term my plan is to grow the plants in so that you can only see a small amount of background to give a sense of depth- do you think this would help/ work? The pics were taken early this morning on a mobile phone. How could you tell it was taken in the morning?
 
Hi Marc - thanks for the feedback. I went for a frosted white background, however, I think agree that a black background would pop the colours. Given the tank's position I can only change this when I rescape the tank. In the short term my plan is to grow the plants in so that you can only see a small amount of background to give a sense of depth- do you think this would help/ work? The pics were taken early this morning on a mobile phone. How could you tell it was taken in the morning?

Either way, all tanks look good when the plants grow in. Nature is better at design than we are.

Because the Limnophila sessiliflora are closed up and also the tetras are washed out ;)

Id start filling out the back right with all stem plant trimmings. will give the tank more of a triangular composition.
 
I had to completely deconstruct the scape yesterday to catch an errant fish (https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/help-a-problem-that-really-sucks.56334/). What should have been a short task became bit of a marathon and ended up with a sprint to reconstruct the tank. So the good news is that the epiphytes are well and truly attached to the rock, the Anubis is growing and doesn’t have any algae on it and the crypts have extensive root systems.

The rather less good news is that in gently removing the plants and extensive root systems to allow the capture of the fish without harming them the aquarium ended up resembling a muddy battlefield – Tim mentioned that he had the same experience. The task of reassembling the hardscape with the epiphytes attached was also interesting.

I have revealed the rock-work and moved the water sprite to the back of the scape. While I started with a clear idea of how to rescape I ended up putting in some of the plants in quickly and I not at all happy with the end product. Any suggestions for changes would be welcome.

I have bought two pots of Bucephalandra Deep Purple from Aquarium Gardens and intend to attach this to the rockwork in the areas where there is a decent flow towards the top of the scape.

Photos will follow shortly…
 
Just a suggestion, rather than placing the lava rock leaning against the rear and corner of the tank I would look to scape it in the center/off center. To retain height and structure you could silicone pieces together. Otherwise nice start!
 
I like the look of it tbh, which plants are you not happy with?
 
Hi Tom,

I bonded the hardscape together using superglue and cigarette filters, however, for a more ambitious approach I think you are correct I would need a glue gun.

I looked to Green Aqua for inspiration and agree that a central area would be superb...just like this one by Victor .has created I was worried that as novice it may be too technically demanding to grow and maintainl.

Instead I went for a mix between this one from Attila at Green Aqua

And this one by James Findley at the Green Machine

My hope is that I can create micro climates within the tank using lilys to create a shaded area over the rock area and turn this space into area for slow growing ephphites/ crypts and then having an emersed area on top of the rocks.

Any advice or comments are more than welcome.
 
Last edited:
I like the look of it tbh, which plants are you not happy with?

I am not sure! In a recent vlog George Farmer mentioned the overuse of red plants. Am I overdoing it? I am attempting link the tones of the ADA Malaysia substrate with the lava rock and the reds / browns of plants gently fading into a carpet in the corner. I want to cover the lava rock with small buce and for the left hand corner to be stems to provide tones and textures of green.

That's the plan! The reality seems different atm and any advice would be more than welcome.
 
Bit of positive news and some not so positive.

The Bucephalandra Deep Purple from Aquarium Gardens arrived. I had some minor problems with the order, however, was absolutely delighted with the customer service from Aquarium Gardens who resolved the issues quickly. 20190115_193808.jpg

On the more negative side a result of the complete disruption of the tank and of disturbing the substrate has been that I have found a few bits of Blue Green Algae. I manually removed these and have done a couple of 50% water changes, however, I know how persistent this can be and how rapidly it can spread.

In the past I dealt with this by following Edvet's advice and blacking out the tank for 3 days, stopping fertilizing or feeding and this worked perfectly. This time, however, I have just introduced some quite expensive and delicate plants and replanted a lot of temperamental plants (Crypts) which may not respond well to this treatment.

I noticed Rebel suggested using Boyd Chemiclean and have seen rave reviews for this product. Has anyone on the forum got any advice about which way I should approach this or do they know what Chemiclean is and how it works?
 
Hi all,
Boyd Chemiclean and have seen rave reviews for this product. Has anyone on the forum got any advice about which way I should approach this or do they know what Chemiclean is and how it works?
They won't tell you what is in it, but there is a thread on Reef Central <"Chemiclean use survey">, which says it contains an antibiotic "erythromycin cetyl sulfate", which would mean that you couldn't legally sell it over the counter in the UK.

I assume the other active ingredient is a flocculant of some sort, to allow you to skim off the dead cyanobacteria with a protein skimmer (in marine tanks).

Even if it was legal <"I wouldn't use it for a number of reasons">, but cyanobacteria are usually pretty susceptible to antibiotics like erythromicin.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all, They won't tell you what is in it, but there is a thread on Reef Central <"Chemiclean use survey">, which says it contains an antibiotic "erythromycin cetyl sulfate", which would mean that you couldn't legally sell it over the counter in the UK.

I assume the other active ingredient is a flocculant of some sort, to allow you to skim off the dead cyanobacteria with a protein skimmer (in marine tanks).

Even if it was legal <"I wouldn't use it for a number of reasons">, but cyanobacteria are usually pretty susceptible to antibiotics like erythromicin.

cheers Darrel

Thanks Darrel, I remember erythromycin being prescribed for my kids for chest infections/ ear infections! It seems rather irresponsible to use it in aquarium!

Ok so I am back to the black out, frequent water changes and if this doesn't work Mark's suggestion of Seachem Excel.
 
Manual removal and increased water changes alone will eventually get on top of it... just a case of patience... though I totally understand wanting to nip it in the bud!! perhaps give the plants a couple of weeks to settle first?
 
I've used Easy Life Blue Exit with success, it's not erythromycin but uses salicylic acid. I believe the salicylic acid may boost plant growth to combat the Cyano. I could be totally wrong so hopefully someone will be able to give some more info :)
 
To add my experiences:
- increased nitrate, no effect
- increased flow, no effect
- manual removal, regular water changes, some effect
- High dose liquid carbon, no effect
- 3 day black out, effective but temporary
- dosing peroxide to whole tank (No livestock), highly effective but requires ongoing application (at much reduced frequency to original blitz).

K
 
Thanks for all the feedback and advice. I followed Matt's advice and intended to wait for a few weeks before backing out while manually removing it on a daily basis - which seems to be slowly working. If this doesn't work then to blackout and the ADA Bacta and Easy Life...
 
Back
Top