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Finally taking he plunge on monster tank - Help with kit list please!

KirstyF

Member
Thread starter
Joined
25 Jul 2021
Messages
27
Location
Kidderminster
Hi All

New member on the forum but been floating around in the background for a long while. Some amazing tanks and a world of experience here!

I've been dreaming, planning....re-planning a tank for about 18mths now and am just about ready to press the button.
It's a heck of a step up from my 160l low tech so would really appreciate some input on my planned kit list. Will get around to the other million questions later. lol!

Tank: 84" x 24" x 24" around 175 gallons (UK) - Cabinet style, fully lidded (I have mad cats so an open tank is not an option.)
Filtration: For a number of reasons I'm looking at canister rather than sump so 2 x OASE Biomaster Thermo. I like the pre-filter and built in heater features.
Flow/distribution: I don't think the 'traditional' oversize pump and spray bar solution is going to cut it, so thinking Maxspect Gyre to increase flow/CO2 distribution - Can't really think of another way to get good enough flow and distribution without using a whole batch of canisters or cluttering the tank with powerheads (the 2 Biomasters would only give me about 4.5x turnover rate at max.) Not sure whether to go for 1 or 2, 330's or 350's, as they only have a 10/13 inch spread. Also, seen this tested on a 6ft tank but not 7ft. Can anyone confirm whether I'm likely to achieve good distribution across the length of a 7ft tank by using these or suggestions for an alternative solution are welcome.
Co2: Aquamedic 1000 reactor with Co2 Art Pro-Se regulator kit. It states that 250gph is required for this reactor, will it handle the 450gph output of the OASE??
Lights: Finnex 24/7 CRV - 1 x 48" plus 1 x 36" or 2 x Current USA Satellite Pro 36-48". Enough light?

I'm looking to start out slow with low/medium planting (lots of it) at least until I can get the tank dialled in and get my head around dealing with a high tech of this size.

All suggestions and input very welcome and very much appreciated.
 

KirstyF

Member
Thread starter
Joined
25 Jul 2021
Messages
27
Location
Kidderminster
I’ve not lived in the area long and my new tank isn’t built yet so still in the planning stage. Not identified a local supplier so far I’m afraid. I’ll be shopping around over the next few weeks. I’ll let you know if I find a good one. Keep me posted if you get there first.
 

Papillo

New Member
Joined
15 Jun 2008
Messages
16
Thanks. Used to get mine from Shirley Aquatics but since the store relocated, and now I longer work in Birmingham, I have switched to liquid CO2 only.
 

tiger15

Member
Joined
14 Mar 2018
Messages
659
Location
USA
Hi All

New member on the forum but been floating around in the background for a long while. Some amazing tanks and a world of experience here!

I've been dreaming, planning....re-planning a tank for about 18mths now and am just about ready to press the button.
It's a heck of a step up from my 160l low tech so would really appreciate some input on my planned kit list. Will get around to the other million questions later. lol!

Tank: 84" x 24" x 24" around 175 gallons (UK) - Cabinet style, fully lidded (I have mad cats so an open tank is not an option.)
Filtration: For a number of reasons I'm looking at canister rather than sump so 2 x OASE Biomaster Thermo. I like the pre-filter and built in heater features.
Flow/distribution: I don't think the 'traditional' oversize pump and spray bar solution is going to cut it, so thinking Maxspect Gyre to increase flow/CO2 distribution - Can't really think of another way to get good enough flow and distribution without using a whole batch of canisters or cluttering the tank with powerheads (the 2 Biomasters would only give me about 4.5x turnover rate at max.) Not sure whether to go for 1 or 2, 330's or 350's, as they only have a 10/13 inch spread. Also, seen this tested on a 6ft tank but not 7ft. Can anyone confirm whether I'm likely to achieve good distribution across the length of a 7ft tank by using these or suggestions for an alternative solution are welcome.
Co2: Aquamedic 1000 reactor with Co2 Art Pro-Se regulator kit. It states that 250gph is required for this reactor, will it handle the 450gph output of the OASE??
Lights: Finnex 24/7 CRV - 1 x 48" plus 1 x 36" or 2 x Current USA Satellite Pro 36-48". Enough light?

I'm looking to start out slow with low/medium planting (lots of it) at least until I can get the tank dialled in and get my head around dealing with a high tech of this size.

All suggestions and input very welcome and very much appreciated.
I have a 75g and 125g planted cichlid tanks in my living area. I always have big tanks as I keep cichlid that are territorial and generate high bio load. PLant keeping doesn't need to start with big tank as it is expensive to fill up with plant mass to suppress algae. But you already have experience with a low tech tank, so you can transfer some plants over. So the size of your tank isn't an issue except for the 24 inch depth. Unless you have the reach of a basketball player, manipulating plants in 24 inch deep and wide tank can be challenging. Also, unlike natural light that is perfectly parallel, artificial light decreases rapidly in depth according to the inverse square law, so light penetration to the substrate level is greatly decreased. You need very intense light to sustain healthy plants at the substrate, but than your upper level light could be too intense to promote algae. Raising a false bottom on driftwood or rock for planting would help.

For monster tank, a sump system is the norm as you only need to change one big filter at a time. Most aquascapers use canister filters and will tell you to use multiple canisters to achieve adequate water flow and filtration for your monster tank. I beg the difference as canisters are PIA to clean, and a sump system is noisy, and I have safety concern for both systems as they have external plumbing vulnerable to leak and drain the tank. I run three HOBs in my 6 ft 125g and two HOBs in my 4 ft 75g and feel safe in my living room as HOBs have no external plumbing to leak. For good water circulation, it's easily achieved by attaching a circulation pump at one end to provide cross circulation.
 

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KirstyF

Member
Thread starter
Joined
25 Jul 2021
Messages
27
Location
Kidderminster
Kirsty I see from your posts that you are based near Kidderminster. Quick off topic question: where do you get your CO2 refills?
JESP Gases in Brierly Hill do Co2 gas it seems. Not sure what their prices are like as yet but might be worth a call if ur liquid co2 doesn’t work out so well. 😊
 

KirstyF

Member
Thread starter
Joined
25 Jul 2021
Messages
27
Location
Kidderminster
I have a 75g and 125g planted cichlid tanks in my living area. I always have big tanks as I keep cichlid that are territorial and generate high bio load. PLant keeping doesn't need to start with big tank as it is expensive to fill up with plant mass to suppress algae. But you already have experience with a low tech tank, so you can transfer some plants over. So the size of your tank isn't an issue except for the 24 inch depth. Unless you have the reach of a basketball player, manipulating plants in 24 inch deep and wide tank can be challenging. Also, unlike natural light that is perfectly parallel, artificial light decreases rapidly in depth according to the inverse square law, so light penetration to the substrate level is greatly decreased. You need very intense light to sustain healthy plants at the substrate, but than your upper level light could be too intense to promote algae. Raising a false bottom on driftwood or rock for planting would help.

For monster tank, a sump system is the norm as you only need to change one big filter at a time. Most aquascapers use canister filters and will tell you to use multiple canisters to achieve adequate water flow and filtration for your monster tank. I beg the difference as canisters are PIA to clean, and a sump system is noisy, and I have safety concern for both systems as they have external plumbing vulnerable to leak and drain the tank. I run three HOBs in my 6 ft 125g and two HOBs in my 4 ft 75g and feel safe in my living room as HOBs have no external plumbing to leak. For good water circulation, it's easily achieved by attaching a circulation pump at one end to provide cross circulation.
Hi Tiger
You’ve got some beautiful fish in there, Impressive, and thank you for your comments.
Yeah the tank height is a bit of a ‘mare and I’ll be offsetting that with a fair amount of height in the scape which, along with some careful plant selection, should help some with the challenge of maintenance and PAR variations. (In a pinch, I’ve got a snorkel to go with my flippers) Considered dropping to 22” but I’ll lose a couple of inches visually due to cabinet overhangs and it’s already a panoramic feel with that 84” length so didn’t want to push that too far!
See the benefit of HOB’s but I need that external plumbing to run a co2 reactor and a sump isn’t an option for me anyhow, so I think it’ll be a single canister plus gyres for flow and see how that configuration works out.
 

tiger15

Member
Joined
14 Mar 2018
Messages
659
Location
USA
Hi Tiger

See the benefit of HOB’s but I need that external plumbing to run a co2 reactor and a sump isn’t an option for me anyhow, so I think it’ll be a single canister plus gyres for flow and see how that configuration works out.
I use Tunze diffuser that runs on powerhead to avoid external reactor.

 

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