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(EI) Dosing Help

Furgan

Furgan

Member
Joined
10 Jul 2017
Messages
115
Location
Scotland
Hi guys,

I know there is a lot of information out there I’ve tried sifting through and understanding it, but it’s all a little confusing. And if you could help me with a couple of questions it would be really appreciated.

My tank details are below. I’m planning on running a low light tank with co2. 7.2 watts for 40 gallons

From what I’ve read up I need to buy the following
KNO3
KH2PO4
MgSO4
Is this right, or am I missing anything? I have found a post with recommendations on where to buy.

Lastly will I be able to work out a estimated dosage for sush a low light tank.

Thank you.

180L cube 53/53/56cm (40 gallons)
Substrate ADA amazonia with power sand under
Led Interpret triple led 7.2 watts total
Co2 from co2 art
Tetra ex external with spray bar
Mini pat filter for extra circulation

Carpet is Eleocharis Acicularis dry start method, just planted 30th Nov
bucaphalandra
Ludwigia paulustris red
limnophila hippuridoides
bacopa caroliniana
Java moss
süsswassertang

Stocking yellow King Kong shrimp
 
Furgan said:
From what I’ve read up I need to buy the following
KNO3
KH2PO4
MgSO4
Is this right, or am I missing anything? I have found a post with recommendations on where to buy.

Lastly will I be able to work out a estimated dosage for sush a low light tank.
Click to expand...
Hello,
As Ian mentions, you should get the EI Starter Pack as this is the most convenient and it contains everything you need.

For the sake of ease, consider your tank to be twice the size of the reference 20 USG tank so to make it quick:
Dose 1/2 teaspoon of KNO3 + 1/4 teaspoon KH2PO4 3X per week
Dose 1/4 teaspoon Trace Mix 2X per week
Throw in a couple teaspoons of MgSO4 on water change day.
Make sure to change AT LEAST 50% of your water on water change day and then restart the dosing cycle with the KNO3, KH2PO4 and MgSO4.

You do not need to make any adjustments due to supposed low light. People really do not know how much light they have unless they own a PAR meter, and in any case there is no requirement to adjust the dosage.

After you gain some experience with CO2 and dosing, you will be able to make adjustments if you wish, but it is completely unnecessary.

If you are wise, you will stay away from stocking the tank with the shrimp until you have sorted out the plants. Do not assume that your CO2 technique will be automatically adequate. This is the biggest mistake that folks tend to make.

Cheers,
 
Thanks Ceg, I’ve asked Santa for the fert kit.

I will def give it some good time before stocking with Shrimp, I have a mature filter so it’s all about keeping that ticking over until I’m happy with the co2 and fert dosage.

Without test kits, how will I know the ferts are right, I guess if all is growing well and the tanks looking fine it’s all working, but what are the symptoms of it not right, what’s the key things I’m looking for.

I’m guessing the 50% water change is what will be removing the excess ferts not consumed by the plants to help create the right balance.

I’m looking foreward to seeing the tank grow. I’m already coming up to 2 weeks with the DSM carpet, and I know this can take 3+ weeks to settle in down below the surface before it’s starts to show up top.

I think I should call this tank build #patience
 
Furgan said:
Thanks Ceg, I’ve asked Santa for the fert kit.

I will def give it some good time before stocking with Shrimp, I have a mature filter so it’s all about keeping that ticking over until I’m happy with the co2 and fert dosage.

Without test kits, how will I know the ferts are right, I guess if all is growing well and the tanks looking fine it’s all working, but what are the symptoms of it not right, what’s the key things I’m looking for.

I’m guessing the 50% water change is what will be removing the excess ferts not consumed by the plants to help create the right balance.

I’m looking foreward to seeing the tank grow. I’m already coming up to 2 weeks with the DSM carpet, and I know this can take 3+ weeks to settle in down below the surface before it’s starts to show up top.

I think I should call this tank build #patience
Click to expand...
The beauty of dosing EI is you don't have to worry if the ferts are right. The doses recommended in the previous post are worked out that you couldn't possibly need anymore than that. That frees you up to spend time making sure the co2 and tank cleanliness is on point.

The purpose of the water change is to remove all the fish waste and organic crap that accumulate in the tank as a by product of fish waste and plant growth. Think along the lines of not flushing your toilet for days. Eventually you'll be swimming in your own crap. The more often you flush it with a water change the healthier it is ;)

Sent from my STH100-2 using Tapatalk
 
Furgan said:
Without test kits, how will I know the ferts are right
Click to expand...
As AWB mentions, dosing EI automatically means that it's right. Also, as he mentioned, is that the water change is to remove organic waste which builds up in the tank 10X faster than if you were not using nutrients and CO2. The organic waste buildup results in a loss of Oxygen. This is what kills fish/shrimp.

Cheers,
 
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