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DIY Pfertz link

There will be the analysis done for Tropica and Seachem as well shortly.
Then folks can DIY their own versions if they chose or modify them to suit as they get more familiar.

DIY came long before commercial brands had macros available.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
Tanky!

I'll link that and see about getting permission to make a monster all in one article we can share on all the forums.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 
Is there anything like this around for the ADA fert range?

Hopefully going to be setting up a 100g planted tank after Christmas and being on a water meter kind of knocks EI on the head as a 50g water change each week is going to end up costing a load. Was going for something like this and used the ADA products before so would be interesting to see how they compare to the Pfertz and Tropica range.
 
Barney said:
Is there anything like this around for the ADA fert range?

Hopefully going to be setting up a 100g planted tank after Christmas and being on a water meter kind of knocks EI on the head as a 50g water change each week is going to end up costing a load. Was going for something like this and used the ADA products before so would be interesting to see how they compare to the Pfertz and Tropica range.

Then you should NOT look to ADA for a solution there, ADA suggest the Exact same type of water change routine EI does :idea:

People poo poo EI all the time about water changes, bu rarely poo poo ADA curiously.

Like most liquids, the water you buy has a tiny amount of ferts in there.

If less/reduced cost of water changes is an issue, then go non CO2, or CO2+ low light and definitely use Sediment with rich nutrients, like ADA AS or soils/clays etc. Then you do not have to rely so much on the water column for ferts, also, add a sizable fish load, this will reduce the drop in nutrients as well.

EI does not require weekly water changes either, that is a simply put, a myth promoted by folks who do not understand common sense. You need less? You add less. You need more? You add more.

It's not a sledge hammer you keep whacking without any sense of the aquarium, tap water, light etc.

If you want fewer water changes, then add a back up in the sediment, have a good fish load and learn how to dose starting higher and with more water changes 1st..then reduce the dosing progressively till you see a negative response, then back up to that last prior dosing amount.

Then you can reduce the water changes to once every 2-4 weeks easily.
This works even better with less light intensity. Why have lots of light if the cost of water is an issue but not energy waste?

Aquariums are luxuries, they are all costly and not required.
I chose to spend $ on them and their care. Water changes are rather cheap compared to other things like labor, test kits, high light electrical cost etc. There is a trade off. The same applies to Reef folks also. They spend lots of skimmers, driving large flows etc, dosing and testing, a simple weekly water changes would make the system fairly easy, but salt mixes cost $, so depending on the size of the aquarium, might be a good idea to chose.

If you have a 100+ gallon aquarium and the room to have it, you got enough $ to afford things.
Dosing and reduced water changes are not going to save you that much.

Even with the high cost of CA water in the USA, a 55 gallon, 200 liter aquarium only cost about 40 cents $ a month, if you use 1 w/liter vs say .5 w, you will save about 5$ per month. Cost might be different in the UK, but water cannot be more $ in the UK than in the desert :idea:

This is luxuirous consumption, even if the water does get re-used somehow.

However water is definitely recyclable. Even if all the waste goes down the sewer, it goes back to the ocean or the air , one way or another. If conservation is necessary, then it would be a different issue. As is, it's more of a socio-economic issue. If you can afford it, it's yours.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
hmmm you do make a very, very good point on cost of water vs cost of lighting (even using the energy saving bulbs I plan to use it will still cost more).

The other reason I was interested in going for a leaner dosing route was because that is what I have used before and what I'am used to and have had good results with. Specificity using ADA products, which is why I was after a comparison of that to the two linked above.
 
If you are use to it, that's fine.
There is nothing wrong with any particular approach given a specific goal of management.
There are common sense ways you can use to improve and enhance the management to make it easier and less labor/cost no matter what goal that is.

If you like leaner routines, try doing this: add sediment rich ferts, like ADA AS, or osmocoat, soil etc.
This will not affect your water column dosing, but it will supply a lot more nutrients to the plants.
So plants will grow well and without as much limitation.

Not much labor once you set up the sediment.
Last a long time too.

ADA does this.

But.........ADA also uses much less light than most predicted based on watt/Gal.

So you have several things going on.
Not just "leaner is better", or "Water changes cost lots of $". They don't relatively speaking.
It's much more an issue of what is easier management.

If reduced cost and more long term sustainable methods are a goal, then a soil/light ferts to the water column and leaner light intensity would be the best way, as well as a good result for most goals aquarist have. It is very counterproductive to suggest methods that have lean "less is better" nutrients, and then go whole hog with high light waste. Many do however:)

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
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