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DIY bypass for Co2, will this work?

Chubbs

Chubbs

Member
Joined
25 Oct 2017
Messages
146
Location
UK
i probably should have posted this before gluing it, but before I start drilling and cutting my cabinet. Will this work?

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Needed to create a 16/22mm bypass for a CO2 reactor as my FX4 pipes are 25/32mm and go directly into the tank via an under mount.

The two cut of valves are so that if the reactor needs maintainance or replacing (if it’s rubbish) then I can do this easily. This is going on my outflow. From filter to the bottom connector and then from the top connector, straight into my tank.

The connectors are facing inwards due to the thickness of my cabinet, I wanted this to fit inside to one of the walls.
 
That’s fine my filter is an FX4 on a 240ltr tank and I also have a 1600ltr circulation pump. Restricting flow isn’t an issue. Just wanted to make sure it would still diffuse the CO2 :D

@Edvet Where can you buy pipes like that?
 
And your design is a bit overcomplicated and likely wont work the way you thinks it works.

I asume thsi for in and outlet?. Than even if you have the 2 valves completely open water likely only will flow following the red arrows.
bypass.jpeg


If you want to force/regulate water flow through the difusser you would need to place a valve where i did put the green cross.
 
Edvet said:
Pff who needs inches...............
Click to expand...
In our region and old fashion plumber still does, because we still use British standard today in thick walled steel pipe and threads. Pretty distracting sometimes using metrics again on this pipes. But working with inches you must be pretty good in mathematic fractures i find it pretty impressive too, not getting lost allong the way..
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For example if you need 6/16 and a half.. I guess you can't say it like that.. Is that 13/32 or is that 26/64? And what if you even go smaller you would have to go 52/128?

If it is true that brain training prevents Alzheimer, maybe we should all convert back to inches again.

And i kinda like it's history, the Roman Uncia. And the uncia grew 8mm along the way becomming an Inch with the Saxons, did they have thicker thumbs or what? :thumbup:
 
zozo said:
And your design is a bit overcomplicated and likely wont work the way you thinks it works.

I asume thsi for in and outlet?. Than even if you have the 2 valves completely open water likely only will flow following the red arrows.

If you want to force/regulate water flow through the difusser you would need to place a valve where i did put the green cross.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. The in pipe is from my pumps outflow. I don’t have the cabinet depth to use Zeus build. But I may give your amendments a try. Thanks for taking the time to help and for the picture.

I appreciate it’s over complicated but it had to be a certain size, height and width to fit amoungst my other equipment.
 
Is there anything that will undo the solvent cement? :D
 
zozo said:
Personaly i would rebuild the whole thing and use foxfish's design. :) And this one, it still needs a valve where the red cross is to regulate flow over the diffuser. And 45° T's instead.
Click to expand...
I don't know if you need to flow water through the atomiser for it to work, I think my first diagram would work?
The problem with fitting an inline valve is the restricted ID, I always use an upsize valve & use reducer inserts.
I have many years of experience using PVC pipework & associated fittings, yes you can dissemble the fittings but it is not easy.
The easiest way to save the valves would be to cut the pipe as close as possible to the valve & use a heat gun to soften the piece of pipe left in the valve socket.
You need a pair of long nose pliers to get between the socket & pipe while it is still soft from the heat, once you get the pliers in you need to twist & pull.
I can do this quite quickly but it takes practice!
 
Chubbs said:
Is there anything that will undo the solvent cement? :D
Click to expand...

Yes heat.. :) But very gently.. Cut it like this
Knipsel.JPG


Than take a junior hacksaw blade and serrate the inner pipe in it's lenght, obviously do not cut the T or what so ever. Than take a small penn gas torch
Gently heat up the tube piece inside the T, do this with constantly moving the torch, don't heat till is burns just keep the torch constantly moving around with the flame inside the tube. Soften the tube without burning it, not to long don't soften the T. Once the inner tube piece is soft enough than take a pair of plyers, put it close to the serration and twist and pull it out. :) That's the only way, since the PVC is vulcanized with the cement.

Takes a bit of practice, but works like a charme once you got the feeling for it. :)
 
Ok so looks like I’ll just buy the parts again lol thanks Zozo but youre listing skills and equipment I do not possess. I’ll change the 90s to 45s but I still like the idea of valves for easier maintainance and cleaning of the pipes and reactor.

Shall look at the pipe shop like for the parts.
 
foxfish said:
I don't know if you need to flow water through the atomiser for it to work, I think my first diagram would work?
Click to expand...
?? Are you realy sure? How would you get co2 diffused into the water is it doesn't flow through the atomizer.. :) Water takes the route of least resistance, the valve enables you to regulate the flow over the atomizer. It could work without, but it will flow as constructed, no way to change things once it is installed. If the flow over the atomizer is reduced due to diameter difference than it will be rather limited.. Since the concept is diffuse co2 into the water, i guess flow over the atomizer should be optimized and not restricted. :)
 
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