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Dennerle 60l with plans to move to 250l...

Gilles

Member
Joined
29 Mar 2011
Messages
114
Hi all!

In the past I've had multiple aquariums equipped with either sumps and sand filtration or external filters, all of them combined with massive PVC plumbing and 'bored out' AquaMedic 1000 reactors to increase flow. Some even had automatic water change with RO based on water sensors. I even built myself a 800 liter plywood tank completely myself with DIY lighting (80w T5 tubes). Maybe some of you still remember my posts on this forum but they range back about 5 or 6 years; Next to that i own and run a Dutch based fertiliser shop where i not only sell my own plant nutrition but also powders like potassium, nitrates, micro elements etc. I have also built my own Arduino based swimming pool controller which monitors pH and ORP and doses chlorine and acids with dosing pumps. I am telling this just to give you some background on my knowledge of water chemistry etc.

However, in the past 6 years i have never ran a tank due to me moving houses, getting kids and never really had the time or the urge to start a new tank.

The new project:
However... I've recently bought a store demo model of the 60l Dennerle Scapers tank for my kids me and it came with the LED light and the corner filter. Reason for buying this one was because I have the intention to move to a 180 liter or 250 liter tank (on my bucket list is an ADA but also the new Oase Scapers Tank is a gem to be honest) but since it was 6 years ago that i had my last tank i wanted to start small and see if i would still want to move to a bigger tank. Off course it started with buying new filtration cartridges and the tank is now cycling with 50/50 RO/tap water, added FB7 bacteria (it came with the tank) and off course the tank is filled with Dennerle Scaper's soil since it looked cool and was available in the shop. Plant wise only limnobium laevigatum is added to the tank which i've added in an in-vitro bred form. That is now cycling since Sunday and i am planning on doing my water changes every other day (10l) for at least 2 weeks before i measure NO2 and even attempt to add live-stock.

The livestock:
I am planning on adding about 20 Boraras brigittae to this tank and about 25 crystal red shrimps combined with an unknown amount of blue-ish shrimps which don't inter-breed. I think about 5 Otocinclus for algae control should be enough. I am still doubting between the Boraras and the danio margaritatus or even the popondetta furcata but i think this tank is to small for that fish.

The plants:
Since i want to have shrimps in the tank and want to have a carpeting plant so i am thinking about a mix of Blyxa Japonica and glossostigma elantoides or something similar. Nothing more to keep also the scape 'clean'.

The tech:
I've bought a Milwaukee pH controller for adding CO2 to this tank. The injection is done via an Aquario CO2 diffusor and i want to monitor pH not only via the controller but monitor the probe and accuracy of the controller via a CO2 test so that i know when to calibrate the pH probe.

The questions:
Basically i have only 2 questions.
(1) Do you have any feedback on the above plans and ...
(2) Given the fact that i want to migrate to a bigger tank in the future, and the fact that i already have a in-line Hydor heater at home, i am thinking about removing the heating element and the corner filter from the tank and move to an external canister filter, but i need some advise.

I am thinking about the Eheim 5e 450 (due to the later to be added external CO2 reactor) and (for now, e.g. in this tank) add an optional bypass to it if the lowest flow speed in the WiFi app is still to strong, so that it doesn't create waves in the tank but still has plenty of power. Reason for moving to an external filter is that it has way more filtration capacity this way and maintenance would be easier without disruption to the tank + the fact that i am then 'ready' for the bigger tank besides maybe an external CO2 reactor. So one of the requirements would be that it would need to be able to power a 250l tank but with an internal heater in the line and a CO2 reactor also plumbed into it.

Thoughts/advice/tips?
 
Last edited:

Gilles

Member
Thread starter
Joined
29 Mar 2011
Messages
114
Bump.. anybody? In the meantime i've acquired the following (future proof) hardware for the tank:
  • Milwaukee MC122 pH controller
  • 6kg CO2 tank
  • Dennerle CO2 solenoid + non return valve
  • Hydor inline heater 300w (1)
  • AQUARIO Neo Flow In-/Outflow Set Premium + filter guard
  • Twinstar light III 450SA (not future proof but worth the upgrade)
The CO2 is connected, my KH was 0 due to the soil so i did a >50% WC. First plants are in, drop checker is green for now. pH is at 6.5 now and tank is still cycling.

(1) In addition to the Hydor Inline Heater I've acquired a temperature controller which is basically a safety switch in case my heater is stuck.
I will attach the temperature probe to my aquarium tubing and then this device will turn on the power to the Hydor only if the temperature is to low, meaning i basically bypass the Hydor thermostat and it can therefore never malfunction.
61zvSMSSHgL._SL1000_.jpg


This will all be assembled when the external filter is in.
 
Joined
27 Aug 2021
Messages
66
Location
Ayrshire
Looking forward to your jump back into the Bobby grilles. Have subscribed to see the journey with this one
Ard you still doing your website journals
 

Laoshan

Member
Joined
14 Jun 2013
Messages
55
That is a confusing coincidence. A tale of two Gilles! And I was wondering why you used lily pipes from another brand..

Can I say, without advertising, that I really like your webshop? Great for DIY fertilizer.. 👍 👍
 

Gilles

Member
Thread starter
Joined
29 Mar 2011
Messages
114
That is a confusing coincidence. A tale of two Gilles! And I was wondering why you used lily pipes from another brand..
As in, not the default Eheim pipes? I was actually planning on using glass pipes as outflow, with a surface skimmer on it, like this one:

1649318357435.png


But this comes with 2 problems:
1) The skimmer can be sucked down if you have to much flow (meaning you have the chance that little fish and shrimp get sucked into your filter)
2) It is quite bulky

With the skimmer on the OUTLET, like with the one i am receiving now, this problem is gone. I have yet to see how it will work out.
 

Laoshan

Member
Joined
14 Jun 2013
Messages
55
I actually meant the other Gilles also sells lily pipes in his own brand / product line.

Indeed the skimmer on inflow design seeems to be quite bulky. I had the same consideration for my 45 cm tank. In the end I decided to not have a skimmer, in the aim of limiting the number of expensive gadgets for now. Instead I stir the surface a bit every now and then using my hands or tweezers. Of course the appearance is not as neat as could it could be with a skimmer constantly on. I hope the Aquario pipes will do well for you.
 

Gilles

Member
Thread starter
Joined
29 Mar 2011
Messages
114
Well this is the current setup (with the old light and old (corner) filter);

1649332058826.png


As you can see, quite some surface film already; the surface skimmer on the OUTFLOW (video review of it) also prevents little shrimp to end up in my filter.
 

Gilles

Member
Thread starter
Joined
29 Mar 2011
Messages
114
Yesterday i hooked up the Thermostat protection device. Basically it is just a relay/switch with a temperature sensor. I have configured it such that below 27 degrees it turns the socket on, and above it it will be turned off.

If i then connect the Hydor heater it can never 'boil' my fish in case it fails to shut off and acts as a safety device.

IMG_20220416_093525.jpg


I also opened up my Milwaukee pH controller to see if i could extend the cable connected to the socket for activating the solenoid. This because i have a 10kg CO2 tank which i can't place inside the cabinet and putting it next to it would be ugly. The idea is to put this tank behind the curtains in the corner of my living room.

Luckily i found out that it a simple relay board inside (seen at the top) and i simply extended the cable. This means that the solenoid will be near to the CO2 tank, then 5m co2 tubing and then the non-return valve.

IMG_20220415_201407.jpg


IMG_20220415_201306.jpg


And it still works :)
 

Gilles

Member
Thread starter
Joined
29 Mar 2011
Messages
114
Here is the current setup, with 10 Taiwan Bee and 10 Blue Velvet shrimp.
Unfortunately, 2 ottos have already died but my guess would be that is because of the lack of plants.

IMG-20220423-WA0005.jpeg


One of my berried bee's:
IMG_20220423_101315.jpg


And here are the plants in the CO2 tank, to be transferred to my main tank this week:
IMG-20220423-WA0009.jpeg
 
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