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Crytocoryne undulatus Kasselman crashing - light change?

TrevC

Member
Joined
23 Mar 2023
Messages
55
Location
Cambridge
Hi - In the space of several days my Crytocoryne undulatus Kasselman went from one of the most successful plants in my tank to a disintegrating state with many large holes - see before and after pics. Trawling on forums including here I believe this is not melt - with possible causes being snails (unlikely), nutrient deficiency (use JBL clay balls and not changed - so unlikely) or increase/change to light level. In my mind the light change is the prime culprit - as I just changed by Eheim LED light for a more powerful Fluval 3.0 LED system albeit for 1 less hour a day. I am now running at 75% of the default 'planted tank' lighting profile. Full details of setup below.

Not sure it is related but 4 days ago I did observe a small Ammonia increase (to 0.4ppm) but this is now down to <0.1 and nitrites are at zero.

Simple question to this forum from this newbee - is my simplistic process of elimination likely to be correct? If it is the light increase, the obvious solution is to move the plant to a shadier spot though I believe that such a move itself comes with its own melt risks. Suggestions welcome.

I have to say, I have struggled with all my Crypts - and only them - except this one until now! - and will post a separate thread to get advice there.
BEFORE
CuK before.JPG
AFTER
CuK after.JPG


Answers to standard questions below.

thx
Trevor

=============================================>>

1. Size of tank. 90cm, 45cm, 60cm
2. Age of the system approximately. 15 weeks
3. Tap water parameters. Not known
4. Filtration. Betta 1040 with UV; includes charcoal, purigen, ceramic rings and Matrix (replacing bioballs several weeks ago)
5. Lighting and duration. Was Eheim classicLED Plants (840 lum, 8350K, 8hrs/day) replaced 1 week ago with Fluval Plant 3.0 46W (3300 lum max? 6500k ) 7hrs with 30min ramp up and down; currently at 75% of the default 'planted tank' lighting profile
6. Substrate. Fluval stratum in filter bags capped with riverbed sand.
7. Co2 dosing or Non-dosing. Yes
8. Fertilizers used + Ratios. TNC default dosing; Kugeln clay fertiliser balls
9. Water change regime and composition. 30% per week
10. Plant list. Bolbitis heudelotti, Bucephalandra Theia, Anubias barteri Petite, Anubias Nana, Microsorum pteropus Trident, hygrophila Siamensis 53b, limnophila aromatica, limnophila sessiflora, myriophyllum mattogrossense, alternanthera Reineckii Pink, varous mosses, assorted crypts (Undulatus Kasselman, Wendtii brown, petchii), Monte Carlo (as of 4 days ago), plus Salvinia and red root floating plants;
11. Inhabitants. 10 shrimp, 7 neon tetras, 8 copper harlequins, 4 red platys, 2 neon blue dwarf gouramis, 5 red phantums, 2 Ottos
12. Full tank shot & Surface image. attached
 

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thx - I assume it might speed the process (and keep things clean) if i remove all of the damaged leaves?
Yeah you can remove the leaves that have holes in them. Since its an established plant the roots and rhizome should allow it to return to its former glory again pretty soon.
 
Some Monte Carlo in the last few days - but this issue pre-dates that.
 
Is that Ludwigia still in the aquarium.....is it Mini Super Red?
Yes it is - it got a big leggy with the old lighting so I have been progressively pruning and replanting as per picture (although this pic rather washes out the red colour)
 

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Yes it is - it got a big leggy with the old lighting so I have been progressively pruning and replanting as per picture (although this pic rather washes out the red colour)
Indeed, I was thinking it did look a tad pale!
 
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