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Creepy Hollow

Where have the spray bars gone though?

You could really do with those return pipes being all the way down to the substrate - it'll help draw settling detritus into your filter and also circulate water to the substrate level. Once of the challenges you're going to have with such a deep tank is getting flow right down to the bottom of it.
I've still got them, but I really didn't like the look of them. These return pipes are as low as they'll go. I think the Oase ones had around an additional 3 inches of depth over the new stainless steel ones.

That said, I have been considering putting the spraybars back, one I'll need to cut a little off to have on the left wall facing the right side, and have the other one on the right side doing what it was originally doing pushing from back to front. I really don't like the bits that connect the inlets and outlets to the pipes though so I might just stick with these until boredom sets in and I revert back.

I guess this is where a powerhead of sorts comes into play either an AI Nero or something else. My budgets blown now for the next 6 weeks though.
 
I'm a sucker for a wall of vallisneria, it's so pleasing to the eye!
Yeah same here. I can't wait for it to grow in a bit. Since planting I've had three plantlets uproot. I don't want to get my hands wet again so I'll let them float around for now until I do my next water change, which might even be when the next batch of plants arrive.
 
Having them both on the rear wall shooting at the front glass is pretty well regarded as the best distribution option if can cope with the aesthetic. That said, I keep forgetting your tank is low tech, so the distribution is a little les critical.
 
Having them both on the rear wall shooting at the front glass is pretty well regarded as the best distribution option if can cope with the aesthetic. That said, I keep forgetting your tank is low tech, so the distribution is a little les critical.
I can see it already, in a couple of weeks when I'm crying about algae with my tail between my legs changing the in/outlets back to their original ugly forms. 🤣🤣

By the way that video you linked, that scape was fantastic!
 
IMG_20210321_144813.jpg


There seems to be some yellowing leaves and tips that look to be melting. Is this normal and just the plants adapting or am I doing something wrong?

The lights are on for 8 hours a day at 25% intensity, and I'm using 20ml of the TNC Complete a day (to get to around the recommended 2* suggested dose on the bottle).
 
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There seems to be some yellowing leaves and tips that look to be melting. Is this normal and just the plants adapting or am I doing something wrong?

The lights are on for 8 hours a day at 25% intensity, and I'm using 20ml of the TNC Complete a day (to get to around the recommended 2* suggested dose on the bottle).

It's hard to tell as it could be many things but I think it's early days. Melt will occur regardless. I didn't start fertilising my setup until about a week after setup. I figured if they've just been moved, it's unlikely they're going full pelt on the fertilisers.

How's the rest of your parameters? Temperature, nitrates/nitrites/ammonia, flow etc.
 
Temperature is at 26 degrees. Ammonia is at 1ppm (I upped this since the water change when I planted these as it was 0 ammonia, 0 readable nitrites and negligible nitrates), nitrites is at around 1ppm and nitrates is around 15ppm. Still a ways to go but it looks like the factory has started producing nitrates so it shouldn't be long now.

I'd guessed this may be a patience thing and I may just need to suck it up and wait it out.

Just a thought but I probably haven't helped running an airstone since planting these...
 
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The temperature was to assist in the "cycling". I read that having higher temperatures could assist in the development of the bacteria colonies here.

This same article suggests keeping the water oxygenated, which is why I had the airstone on.

I'm happy to lower temperatures if it helps. In fact I'll go do that now.

The question about flow was a good one. Whilst changing the temperature I noticed the pipe from the outlet on the right filter was crimped. I've straightened it out and now I can see the floaters moving around the surface and the val seems to be swaying gently, which is more than was happening earlier. I have two Oase Biomaster Thermo 850 cannisters on this. I might change the inlet/outlet back to the ones that came with the filter for better water movement as the stainless steel ones look pretty but don't seem to be as efficient at turning water over as the ones that came with the cannisters.
 
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Hi all,
could assist in the development of the bacteria colonies here.
<"That article was written in 2010"> and doesn't reflect <"what actually happens in aquarium filters">. Have a look at our thread, <"Dr Timothy Hovanec's comments about Bacterial supplements">, it is a long read, but I hope you'll find it interesting.
nitrites is at around 1ppm and nitrates is around 15ppm. Still a ways to go but it looks like the factory has started producing nitrates so it shouldn't be long now.
Same really, nitrification doesn't work in a <"linear fashion like this">, and there are also issues with the <"measurement of nitrate (NO3-)">.
Ammonia is at 1ppm (I upped this since the water change when I planted these as it was 0 ammonia, 0 readable nitrites and negligible nitrates)
I don't understand this bit. Are you adding ammonia to the tank? and if you are, why are you? Just let the <"plants grow in">, it is all <"you need to do">.
Just a thought but I probably haven't helped running an airstone since planting these...
This same article suggests keeping the water oxygenated...
Keep the air-stone. You definitely need <"lots of oxygen">, nitrification is an <"oxygen intensive process">. This is one of the major reasons why <"plant/microbe nitrification"> is more efficient than "microbe only" nitrification, plants are <"massively net oxygen producers">.
The lights are on for 8 hours a day at 25% intensity
I'd definitely turn the light intensity up, 25% may be fine, but we don't know and by having greater light intensity you take lack of light out of the equation.

cheers Darrel
 
Thank you for the reply, Darrel.

My aquatic soil substrate has stopped leeching ammonia which is why I added it from a bottle. If this is not advisable I'll stop. I'm just worried that when the day finally comes for me to add livestock to this aquarium, it won't be adequately equipped to deal with any bioload. I'm a worrier, so perhaps I'm overthinking this.

I've increased intensity of my lighting to 40% from tomorrow. I think that might be too high as these AI Prime HDs run really bright, at least to a human eye. My tank is 30" tall though so perhaps it needs it. Just seems like a lot for Val and floaters while I wait to receive my shipment of plants.

I've changed a few variables here out of panic and it might have been that I just needed to let everything run its course. Adding the ammonia, lowering the temperature and increasing the brightness. Also, as stated earlier, I'm still considering changing the inlets and outlets back to the original ones for better flow.

I wonder what sort of 💩 show I'm in for this week.
 
I'm just worried that when the day finally comes for me to add livestock to this aquarium, it won't be adequately equipped to deal with any bioload
Plants are a brilliant supplement to a filter to help handle bioload. To minimise the worry give your tank plenty of time to mature, and add the fish a few at a time, giving your ecosystem a could of weeks to adapt between each addition. Adding ammonia is a substitute of debatable merit for waiting for your tank to be good and ready in its own time.
 
Hi all,
My aquatic soil substrate has stopped leeching ammonia which is why I added it from a bottle.
I know it is difficult, because all the advice you read on forums (and get from LFS) talks about ammonia, bacteria and cycling, but <"none of it is true">.

It is a bit like asking how you get from Bath to London? and then everybody advises you that you need to make sure your horse is well fed before you leave, and that you must be beware of Highway Men at the turnpike. They may once have been relevant, but they definitely aren't <"the factors that matter"> now.
If this is not advisable I'll stop. I'm just worried that when the day finally comes for me to add livestock to this aquarium, it won't be adequately equipped to deal with any bioload. I'm a worrier, so perhaps I'm overthinking this.
Just stop adding any ammonia. You need plenty of oxygen and grown in plants, you don't need anything else.

I'm a worrier as well, it is natural, I'm also pretty <"risk adverse"> and we have a <"duty of care over the livestock we keep">. My advice is <"plants and time"> because I believe that this is the approach that is best for your fish and gives you the maximum probability of success.

cheers Darrel
 
@Kogre - seriously mate, just chuck that ammonia bottle in the bin and be done with it. Though aquatic plants often melt when they experience changes in parameters, it's more than possible your 1ppm of ammonia addition is causing the melt - it has no place in a planted tank.

As others have advised bring your temperature down. I'd recommend 22-23 degrees C personally - the lower the temperature, the more oxygen and CO2 can be dissolved in the water column, and you need to maximise both - the airstone will help with this also as Darrel points out, given you are low tech you don't have to worry about off-gassing CO2, quite the opposite, you need to maximise gas exchange with your deep tank.

Finally just be cautious with your lights. I know Darrel has suggested you increase them, and I wouldn't want to disagree with him as he is the planted tank Sensei - but the Primes are incredibly bright lights, and you have four of them, and currently have very low plant mass, so if you want to dodge the algae bullet, maybe increase to your 40% target slowly and observe results as you go.
 
. . .you need to make sure your horse is well fed before you leave, and that you must be beware of Highway Men at the turnpike. . . .

Never a truer word said Darrel! You really ought to have that as your forum signature! 🤣
 
Thanks for the helpful response @Karmicnull and @dw1305 I'll take it on board and do further reading and I guess chill the eff out a bit.

After having read some of the linked posts I now realise how grossly misinformed I (along with many others apparently) have been about a great number of things. Thanks for all the useful links, Darrel. I'll plant away and just watch everything grow in before adding livestock, as was suggested earlier by @Wookii also.

I've put my spraybar and original intlet back on the left filter for better water movement. I'll do the right cannister either later today or tomorrow.

I'm really excited for the plants to arrive and get cracking with planting it all in. Words I never thought I would ever say.

Edit: @Wookii thank you for your response mate. Based on what you've said, I'll chuck the ammonia away. I'll also err on the side of caution with the power on the lights for now, the program has just come on and I've set them to 30%.
 
Hi all,
I wouldn't want to disagree with him as he is the planted tank Sensei - but the Primes are incredibly bright lights, and you have four of them, and currently have very low plant mass, so if you want to dodge the algae bullet, maybe increase to your 40% target slowly
I've never seen an AI Prime "in the flesh" so @Wookii is much more likely than me to be correct. If they look bright at 25%? Then they probably are
I'll plant away and just watch everything grow in before adding livestock, as was suggested earlier by @Wookii also.
Plant what you have got and then observe how the plants are getting on. I like a floating plant because, it isn't ever CO2 limited. Have a look at <"The scientific background to the "Leaf Colour Chart">.

I know that "watch the plants" doesn't seem very scientific, compared to water testing etc., but it is an <"approach taken by a lot of scientists">.
I now realise how grossly misinformed I (along with many others apparently) have been about a great number of things
<"Cycling has its own mythology">, a lot of the vendors of these products are, at best, <"disingenuous about what their products contain and how they function">. They are also pretty keen to <"shoot the messenger">.
......... I may have a jaundiced view, but look on the companies that sell these products as a bit like payday lenders, people go to them in their hour of need, and then they keep on using the service. There is no money to be made in KISS solutions and telling people that growing plants and time are all you need, add in a soil substrate and rain-water and you have a virtually free recipe for having a successful tank. However if you can keep peoples tanks continually teetering on the brink of disaster you can carry on selling them "pH buffers" etc.............
cheers Darrel
 
@Wookii was kind enough to send me some frogbit and red root floaters. Those came on Thursday, and a majority of them were a vivid green.

Since putting them in my tank, some of the frogbit has yellowed, the majority has stayed qreen but a lot of the red root floaters have just parted ways with their roots. The roots have gotten pretty long on some of the frogbit (+3 inches) and I can see some baby plants coming through from a couple.
 
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