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Costing
- Thread starter dollyh
- Start date
Well, it depends how long it’s on for, but here’s a calcukator
www.sust-it.net
Take the cost per Kilowatt Hour (KwH) and divide it by 20 (1000/50). That’ll be the price per hour of running the heater
Electricity Cost Calculator
Use our simple energy calculator to see the running costs of any electrical items using a range of electricity tariffs
www.sust-it.net
Take the cost per Kilowatt Hour (KwH) and divide it by 20 (1000/50). That’ll be the price per hour of running the heater
Bradders
Member
Yep, I come out about 0.30 per day IF (as @hypnogogia says) you run it on all the time.
Lets say its on 50% of the time as your home is nice and heated, that makes it 0.15 per day or £4.50 per month.
There is an aqurment you don't need a 50W heater in a 24L tank.
Lets say its on 50% of the time as your home is nice and heated, that makes it 0.15 per day or £4.50 per month.
There is an aqurment you don't need a 50W heater in a 24L tank.
Maf 2500
Member
The cost will depend upon the temperature the heater is set and the temperature of the room it is in. For example if the heater was set at 23 degrees and the room was at 21 it would hardly ever be on and cost very little. As stated above the maximum would be 30p per day but it would only get this high if the room is very cold and the heater is on all the time.
Andy Pierce
Member
Presumably you are suggesting a smaller wattage heater? I don't think it will meaningfully change the energy requirements so long as the heater is thermostatically controlled i.e. is not on all the time. I use an Aquael Ultra Heater 25 in a 12.5L shrimp tank and I'm pretty happy with that. I use it to "top up" the temperature from 20C ambient to 22C just to make things a little nicer for the shrimp. Aquael's website suggests 50W is about right for 25L.
Bradders
Member
I think you are right. Fast heating with 50 watts to reach temp verse slow heating to reach temp = approx same cost.
Maf 2500
Member
A smaller wattage heater won't reduce the energy requirements, but it will increase the safety of the tank inhabitants in the case of an "always on" heater failure.
Unless I was using an Inkbird (or similar temp controller) that provides an extra safety factor, I would always size heaters on the lower side. Say 1 watt per litre as an absolute maximum in a normal home environment. I would prefer the tank got a bit cooler when the ambient temperature falls low, rather than entertaining the possibility of coming home to a fish and shrimp chowder when the heater fails to permanently on. Slightly off topic from the original question, I know, but thought it was worth saying anyway.
Unless I was using an Inkbird (or similar temp controller) that provides an extra safety factor, I would always size heaters on the lower side. Say 1 watt per litre as an absolute maximum in a normal home environment. I would prefer the tank got a bit cooler when the ambient temperature falls low, rather than entertaining the possibility of coming home to a fish and shrimp chowder when the heater fails to permanently on. Slightly off topic from the original question, I know, but thought it was worth saying anyway.
FrozenShivers
Member
Good advice, I use controllers on all of mines, but if I didn't I would certainly not go overboard as like @Maf 2500 stated, if they inevitably stick on, you're going to be cooking your fish. In a tank that small the cost will be extremely small, assuming that the tank won't be situated in an igloo, with the additional assumption that due to it being 24l you aren't keeping discus so will be more in the 18 - 24 celsius sort of range and not 28-30 🥵
FrozenShivers
Member
Normally you only need around 1w per litre, unless there is a large delta between ambient temperature and desired water temperature, obviously more works fine and will get up to the set temperature faster, with the caveat I mentioned above without a failsafe.
MichaelJ
Member
The very worst case and highly unlikely scenario is if the heater runs 24 hours a day... that is, 50 w x 24 hours equals 1.2 kWh per day times your price per kWh.
If you want to optimize cost on heating your tank make sure your tank area is relatively well insulated and not sitting in a cold place (no cold drafts etc.) in your house and ensure you have decent flow around the heater and use a cover glass to reduce heat dissipation. Also don't go higher than 22-24 C unless your choice of livestock calls for it.
Cheers,
Michael
Last edited:
tam
Member
- Joined
- 5 May 2011
- Messages
- 1,558
It's going to depend on the temperature of the tank and room. If you have set the tank temp to 21oC and your room temp is 21oC then the cost is zero, as the heater never needs to be on. If you wanted an accurate number for your circumstances then you can get a block that goes between the wall plug and heater plug and that will monitor the actual electricity use.
Andy Pierce
Member
Also if you are heating the room, then costs are lower because the excess heat from the tank will be returned to the room - then it's a question of the efficiency of heating the room with the tank heater (presumably electrical resistance heating) vs. other sources of room heat e.g. heat pump, gas, etc. Acrylic is a better thermal insulator than glass in the general case so if you have an acrylic tank you'll need less heating. Same for a covered vs. uncovered tank - covered needs less heating.
