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Cliff & Plateau

I can also adjust it to all white and chances are that it will be on white most of the time. Maybe with a hint of red to make that green carpet pop.
Your LED looks to be a lot more adjustable than my light, I do like to run on all white, most of the colours look a bit weird, light blue is kind of cool!
 
I just grilled the Giesemann LED light and Bluetooth module. I thought they use the same power adapter, both are 12 V, but boi was I wrong. One has plus on the outside of the plug, the other minus. Not the LED light nor the Bluetooth module have any indication of polarity or a warning on it.

While I "should have" made sure to get it right, that my friends is poor product design. I'm sure I'm not the first, let alone last one to run into this trap.

I sent Giesemann in Germany an email on Sunday. Well Monday went buy and they didn't respond. I asked for simple instruction on own to fix it myself. It should be done with replacing a couple diodes on both items, but I wouldn't be surprise if they skipped things on the circuit too.

If I don't hear back tomorrow, I'll call. If they don't offer any help, I'll look into it and see what I can do. If I can't fix it, I'll take it to the range next time around and put some S&W .500 Magnum 700gr hardcast through it, take photos and upload them here for everyone to see. And then I'll buy another 2 EcoTech LED lights, the same one I'm using on my refugium tank in the kitchen. Love those lights!
 
Enjoying the ride. Keep the updates coming!-

Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk
 
It's all coming together well. What did you use for the hose grommets?

Is that a Besta cabinet?
If so you might want to screw an extra foot in back centre to stop it sinking in the back middle.
 
Regarding the fried Giesemann LED light, this is now really embarrassing.

The manufacturer called and we figured it out. The LED light needs a 24 V power supply and I grabbed one with 12 V. With other words, the LED light is not fried at all, the 12 V just didn't cut it. Hooked up the matching supply and all is working.

I mixed up the power supplies, because the Eheim aquarium filter uses the same 24 V power supplied and that's where the LED supply ended up being, and the 12 V must be from the skimmer or something.

I'll mark all power supplies from now on! I guess I'm getting old. :(

What a joke.


It's all coming together well. What did you use for the hose grommets?

Is that a Besta cabinet?

If so you might want to screw an extra foot in back centre to stop it sinking in the back middle.

Thanks, Tim.

The large cabinet for the 90cm main tank is custom made out of plywood and very sturdy. Tank no 2 sits on my kitchen counter top, which is also very sturdy. Both tanks use these long hose grommets from Mockett: http://www.mockett.com/cp3.html

Now, the 3rd tank sits on a Besta cabinet but has no grommets because this setup will run with a clamp-on filter. No hoses going into the cabinet.

Regarding this IKEA cabinet I'll have to add a center post inside the cabinet in addition to the suggested foot, because the entire back-wall is just some thin cardboard and not a solid panel.
 
Thanks for the link.
I strengthened my Besta cabinet with Besta shelves and cheap kitchen cabinet doors, the ones inside (doors) were cut to fit and clued with no nails. The ones on the back (shelves) stop the unit parallelograming.

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Thanks for the link.
I strengthened my Besta cabinet with Besta shelves the ones inside were cut to fit and clued with no nails. The ones on the back stop the unit parallelograming.


That's a neat idea! Too bad the shelf I bought for this cabinet is made of glass. :D

I'll just cut up a 2" x 2" and glue that into pace.

Thanks for the suggestion. Granted, my tank for this cabinet is only a 4.6 gal nano, but I don't trust this cardboard IKEA stuff anymore, and the other cabinet might carry a 60F at some point (that would be tank no 4).
 
Since I got the main tank LED light working again I was finally able to test it with the new background LED from Phillips. Both can be adjusted and programmed through an iPhone app.

In this photo only the Giesemann Freshwater LED is on, in a very low "evening" setting, programmed to fade out in 1% increments until 9 PM. In this phase the blue channels are a bit higher. This light also simulates currently 40 clouds coming in every day, lasting in average 1 minute, 1 thunderstorm with lightning each day and the moon phase is also simulated at night with up to 10% in the matching color channels.


DSC00788.jpg



Here the night time Phillips backlight LED kicked in, also in increments of 1%, starting at 8 PM and fading out at 11 PM when I typically go to bed.


DSC00789.jpg



Tried a couple programs with more color, just for fun:


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Really nice, tropical turquoise:


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I'll need the weekend to finish the wiring and plumbing on this main tank, then I will have all 3 tanks ready to go and will do final scaping with power sand, soil and stones.
 
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Can you tilt or twist that middle stone - for me it's the most difficult shape wise .... though it may appear quite different in real life & especially with water & light

Note that fish won't appreciate the lightning - tanks (in general) are too shallow & light flash intensity is rather overwhelming
 
Did you mention that before? I think somebody was talking about IKEA cabinets before.

Did you enforce the cabinet in any way?

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Here's mine, they are two besta model; one large and one medium on the top of it, I've just added a plank in the middle...worked like a charm.

Had an ada 45P iwagumi with large seiryu stones and now my 60F on it, it hasn't moved since 3 years now. :)
 
I ran out of ADA 13mm clear hose. Really thought I bought 2 packs but, once again, I was wrong. Placed another order with AquaForestAquarium, and also decided on the power strips for the main tank. Since I need 12 power outlets and having limited room, this wasn't exactly easy to resolve.

I went with Power Strips from Opentron because they are not your average cheap crap made in China. They come in a metal housing, with enough room between all outlets to fit different sizes of power supplies. They also allow the power supplies to be connected sideways, warranting that no outlets will be covered and unusable. The power strips from Opentron also offer a serious surge protection. I use them in the 12 outlet long version for my computers, my electronics lab and in the garage. Highly recommended!

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https://www.amazon.com/Opentron-OT4126-Metal-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00O8NVPBI/
 
While I have to wait for the hoses and power strips I did the pseudo schematics for the plumping and wiring of phase 2, the implementation of the SIEMENS LOGO Controller.



90cm_Tank_2.png
 
I got life in the way and didn't get much done the past 2 weeks.

I hooked up the 2 surge protected power strips. Didn't want 2 wires and a 3rd adapter hanging around so I ended up wiring one strip into the other. For that I had to order (and wait for) a specialty screwdriver bit in order to be able to open them up. Yep that's right, I waited 1 week for some funky triangle screwdriver bits.

A quick shot with my iPhone this time around is below.

I hope I'll be able to work on 1 or 2 scapes this weekend. As soon as I have come up with something I like, I'll post some images and order the plants.


Img_3271.jpg
 
Nice power strips, but how are you going to integrate the PLC into the power outlets

I did 20 power outlets
upload_2017-7-21_17-0-27.png

with 20 individual live power feeds which could be controled Via the PLC software. Did the neutral and earth on a ring circuit to reduce the number of wires.
upload_2017-7-21_17-2-17.png

second pic pre final wire up
 
Nice power strips, but how are you going to integrate the PLC into the power outlets

I did 20 power outlets

with 20 individual live power feeds which could be controled Via the PLC software. Did the neutral and earth on a ring circuit to reduce the number of wires.

second pic pre final wire up


I'll drill holes and use rubber grommets next to each outlet in the same way I did with the wire running from one strip to the other. Currently all outlets are connected internally with simple, long copper lines. It will be very easy to take them out and solder wires in for each outlet.

But I'm also considering getting rid of all that power supply / power strip nonsense and directly drive an industrial grade multi-voltage power supply. Basically all is run by 5, 6, 12 and 24 V and rather low amps.


Power.png
 
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Good to see some movement here, thought his may turn into the world longest thread without a wet aquarium. To me the scape above looks a bit to formulated with a stone in each corner, I do like the two front rocks and the idea of using them to bank the soil at the back of the tank, I dont feel the two rocks in each back corner add anything, could do something more / better use of rocks in the back area.
 
Good to see some movement here, thought his may turn into the world longest thread without a wet aquarium. To me the scape above looks a bit to formulated with a stone in each corner, I do like the two front rocks and the idea of using them to bank the soil at the back of the tank, I dont feel the two rocks in each back corner add anything, could do something more / better use of rocks in the back area.


How about this... higher banks... uneven number of stones...


DSC00888.jpg
 
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