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Bluey greeny yellow...ish

Big G

Member
Joined
20 Apr 2020
Messages
174
Location
London&Thanet
Morning all,

Just wondering if it’s just me that is not finding it that easy to differentiate my drop checker’s hue? I’m finding that the pigmentation in the solution provided with the DC is well, a little translucent. I use the white signature strip on the back of an old plastic, credit card-sized RAC membership card with a pincette and slide the former between the funnel and bulb of the DC under the glass goose neck in situ which helps......a bit.

I’m wondering if its the solution that is a bit vague and lacking opacity and if so, are they all much of a muchness i.e. dKH 4 and BB is what it is. I understand when the two components were provided separately it was possible to add a touch more BB to make the solution more punchy with the possible affect of marginally shifting the Kh of the total solution.

I understand this is quite a blunt tool and that it’s more used as a relative indicator than an absolute one but I would like to be able to see at least something with a bit more saturation upon which to base my ineptitude if I can.



All the best,

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Hi all,
I understand when the two components were provided separately it was possible to add a touch more BB to make the solution more punchy with the possible affect of marginally shifting the Kh of the total solution.
You can buy <"bromothymol blue pH indicator"> relatively cheaply via ebay etc.

Ebay seller "kitchen-chemistry" are still selling it, ~£6 for 35mL.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all, You can buy <"bromothymol blue pH indicator"> relatively cheaply via ebay etc.

Ebay seller "kitchen-chemistry" are still selling it, ~£6 for 35mL.

cheers Darrel

Thank you very much again Darrell. Think I’ll get some of that along with some dKH 4 standard solution and give it a go. Might even get a second DC and have them run side by side to see what’s going on. If I get any interesting results I’ll post them.

(aside) - I’m 38 pages into the Twinstar debate (don’t hate me ;)) Heavy going in places but perfect example of the value of UKAPS not least of which,as with many topics I read here, has helpful and productive input from no less than one dw1305. 👏👏 🤝 .

regards

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Morning all,

Just wondering if it’s just me that is not finding it that easy to differentiate my drop checker’s hue? I’m finding that the pigmentation in the solution provided with the DC is well, a little translucent. I use the white signature strip on the back of an old plastic, credit card-sized RAC membership card with a pincette and slide the former between the funnel and bulb of the DC under the glass goose neck in situ which helps......a bit.

I’m wondering if its the solution that is a bit vague and lacking opacity and if so, are they all much of a muchness i.e. dKH 4 and BB is what it is. I understand when the two components were provided separately it was possible to add a touch more BB to make the solution more punchy with the possible affect of marginally shifting the Kh of the total solution.

I understand this is quite a blunt tool and that it’s more used as a relative indicator than an absolute one but I would like to be able to see at least something with a bit more saturation upon which to base my ineptitude if I can.



All the best,

Bg

When I first set my tank up, I couldn't resist buying one of the 'trendy' all glass drop checkers that we see in so many nice scapes - I couldn't tell the colour difference against the green background of my plants at all. In an exercise of head over heart, I switched to one of the JBL drop checkers with the white back, and its far far easier to determine the correct colouring of the solution (though I do stop short of adding the nasty colour table sticker to the front of the glass):

1600779291897.png
 
Hi all,
I’m 38 pages into the Twinstar debate
We have a few of these <"long and inconclusive threads">. I'm a <"self-confessed luddite">, but I think it is important that people try new products, even though they may eventually conclude that the advantage they offer doesn't out-way <"their cost"> or inconvenience. My guess is that if something works (like CO2 injection) people will adopt it and if it doesn't work it will fall by the wayside.

I also think that a Twinstar lies somewhere in the middle, it may offer some advantages for certain people in certain circumstances, but most people will get fed up with continually <"changing the mesh"> etc.

cheers Darrel
 
When I first set my tank up, I couldn't resist buying one of the 'trendy' all glass drop checkers that we see in so many nice scapes - I couldn't tell the colour difference against the green background of my plants at all. In an exercise of head over heart, I switched to one of the JBL drop checkers with the white back, and its far far easier to determine the correct colouring of the solution (though I do stop short of adding the nasty colour table sticker to the front of the glass):

View attachment 154422
That’s an excellent idea W. Thank you very much. Bg
 
Hi all, We have a few of these <"long and inconclusive threads">. I'm a <"self-confessed luddite">, but I think it is important that people try new products, even though they may eventually conclude that the advantage they offer doesn't out-way <"their cost"> or inconvenience. My guess is that if something works (like CO2 injection) people will adopt it and if it doesn't work it will fall by the wayside.

I also think that a Twinstar lies somewhere in the middle, it may offer some advantages for certain people in certain circumstances, but most people will get fed up with continually <"changing the mesh"> etc.

cheers Darrel


I’m not even going to go there Darrel 😆

I have indulged in a Nerite snail recently that could arguably be, in one sense, considered to be in the same class of purchase as the TW . As it happens, I’m growing quite fond of the little chap (no eggs so I presume.....). Endless fun playing Where’s Wally. He always wins.

Peace

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I think this sort of demonstrates my issue (or confirms I have I’ll never work with an Adobe colour palette for a living);

E228AFE8-7098-43E4-95A8-B56DD6C98E9F.jpeg 43C5C46E-7427-4473-AF77-37CFD73DC97E.jpeg

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I'll be honest, I can see quite a difference between the two.
Exactly. So can I. Those pictures were taken within a minute of each other. The question is; if we go by the former/left image then that’s more or less a mellow lime green - within a broad optimal co2 saturation level for plants. Jolly good - next issues please etc. Go by the second picture, which (to me) is as a far colder, bluer-green and we’ll be looking to perhaps up the bubble count, possibly at the expense of livestock in the tank if we’re careless or unlucky (there is but one snail in this tank atm).

I do note though that looking at these two images again I can see that the colour balance is not the same and in fact all of the tones (the sand, for example) are colder in the second image. I would put this down to the auto white balance/ exposure on the phone I shot this with which has clearly shifted as I’ve reached for the plastic card. To be fair therefore the differences , in the flesh so to speak, are not quite as stark as they may otherwise appear. I think the point stands though.

Perhaps the answer is ultimately - pick a method (card behind or not) and be consistent. It is after all all relative and not in any way absolute as a tool.

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