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Barclaya longifolia and aponogeton madagascariensis
- Thread starter jamesb
- Start date
I suppose you've allready got the morphology of those covered, by reading, so I won't get into that part.
Barclaya longifolia can be quite hard to get started, but once growing not really that difficult. Needs a fair amount of light ( especially the red version), and rich substrate (or root tabs)
The Aponogeton madagascariensis is not really that much harder to grow, then other members of Aponogeton. There are several different kinds of Apon. madagascariensis, with broader/narrower, longer/shorter, greener/more red-ish leaves and very high variation in how much (or less) the wein-structure is bare. Some varieties are easier to handle, then others. Nice, dark violet and scented flower-stalks are an added bonus. Though the leaves seem big, remember that there's really not that much tissue, to do photosynthesis, due to all the "holes"..... so good light is needed, as is rich substrate. They will grow better, in lower region of pH, then in serious high end.
Mick.
Barclaya longifolia can be quite hard to get started, but once growing not really that difficult. Needs a fair amount of light ( especially the red version), and rich substrate (or root tabs)
The Aponogeton madagascariensis is not really that much harder to grow, then other members of Aponogeton. There are several different kinds of Apon. madagascariensis, with broader/narrower, longer/shorter, greener/more red-ish leaves and very high variation in how much (or less) the wein-structure is bare. Some varieties are easier to handle, then others. Nice, dark violet and scented flower-stalks are an added bonus. Though the leaves seem big, remember that there's really not that much tissue, to do photosynthesis, due to all the "holes"..... so good light is needed, as is rich substrate. They will grow better, in lower region of pH, then in serious high end.
Mick.
sparkyweasel
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Both usually get off to a good start, using the energy stored in the 'bulb'. You need to supply plenty of nutrients to ensure that they continue to thrive. Some strains of A. madagascariensis need a resting period, but some manage without one. If it starts to lose its leaves after growing for a while*, take it out of the tank and store it in moist sand for a few weeks, then replant it. If you have fed it well when it was growing there will be enough energy/food stored in the bulb to start it into growth again.
* If the 'bulb' has leaves when you get it, don't worry if they drop when you plant it, more will soon grow.
Barclaya usually manages without a rest period, but still needs plenty of ferts. It often flowers, but usually dies after flowering, some people cut any flower buds off before they open. It's quite interesting that sometimes the flowers don't open, but can pollinate themselves and produce seeds anyway. That's called cleistogamy.
Both will grow without CO2 injection.
hth
* If the 'bulb' has leaves when you get it, don't worry if they drop when you plant it, more will soon grow.
Barclaya usually manages without a rest period, but still needs plenty of ferts. It often flowers, but usually dies after flowering, some people cut any flower buds off before they open. It's quite interesting that sometimes the flowers don't open, but can pollinate themselves and produce seeds anyway. That's called cleistogamy.
Both will grow without CO2 injection.
hth
