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Aquael 240 litre Opti-set aquarium

JohnCooke

Member
Joined
11 Dec 2022
Messages
42
Location
West Sussex
This is an account of setting up a lowish tech planted aquarium, starting in late October 2023. I’m writing this with inexperienced or new aquarists in mind, explaining my choices, so as to help others make up their minds about the various paths they could take. I’m no plant expert, but this may help – learn from my mistakes! In fairness, I have had one or two successfully planted tanks, but that was back in the late 1980s and early 1990s. In those days, the aquatic plants being offered were mostly bullet-proof ones like giant Vallis, and you would have had to have had a permanently dry tank to fail with that.



The aim of this tank: The tank is in a prime position in front of the chimney breast in our front room. My aim is thus to have an attractively planted tank that delights the eye, but doesn’t need the immense attention that can sometime flow from having CO2 injection. I also want it to suit small South American fish; mainly tetras and corydoras catfish. No non-South American fish will be allowed! [Yes, this is a very subjective approach, but I can never shake off feelings of unease when I see SE Asian and Amazonian fish in the same tank. Has someone been to a piscatorial jumble sale, I wonder? Illogically, I don’t have the same feelings about plants, perhaps because I struggle to remember their geographical origin.]



Filtration: Although it’s low tech, there’s a canister filter; an Oase BioMaster Thermo 600, but there’s to be no CO2 injected.

The thinking behind such a large filter is that I will be heavily stocking fish, albeit small ones. In addition, the flow will counter-balance the tangled wood assemblies that I’ll be using. In any case, the filter’s flow rate will inevitably decline as it starts to collect detritus. A large volume filter like this one does mean less major cleans, thus lowering the workload.

There is a prefilter to clean, probably every week, but it’s cleverly designed to be easily done. You don’t have to take the whole canister filter to the sink [preferably when the Other Half is out of the house], just the prefilter tube itself. You’ll see useful accounts of the Oase Biomaster filters on the internet, so I won’t go into details, but my model means there’s no heater in the tank.

If you’re reading this, and you’re very new to fishkeeping, then let me reassure you that you can spend less than I did on the [relatively expensive] Oase, and still get a good filter. There’s now an embarrassment of riches out there. When you do make your choice, however, think carefully about how easy it is to keep the filter clean. In my case, the easier it is, the more often I’ll do it.
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Hardscape: There’s two spider roots [Redmoor wood], and some bits of very old bogwood I’ve had lurking about since at least the 1980s. One of the spider roots is up on an assembly of red lava rocks. I prefer the look of Dragon Stone, but when I picked it up at a shop I thought no – this weighs too much for my peace of mind. Whereas, the lightness of red lava rock reminded me of live coral rock, which I’ve been used to for many years, and which can be easily drilled.

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The substrate is Aquael’s Advanced Soil Plants. It’s sold by Aquael, but is the H.E.L.P brand, made in Japan, as far as I can see. I’ve used about 5-6 litres of it, kept in about 18 fine mesh bags.
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This substrate is covered by about 20 kilos of Unipac Aquarium Silica Sand. It has a nominal particle size of about 1mm. I like the natural look of this [sandy-coloured!] sand, and this is a friendly surface for the Corydoras catfish I’m counting on keeping. I appreciate that there’s an argument for a dark substrate to show off the colours of the fish, but, again, my subjective view when I see such tanks is to feel that someone wants to remind themselves of what it’s like to live down a coal mine. [Only joking!]

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The Aquael tank itself: It’s difficult to see this white Aquael 240 litre Opti-set aquarium in the flesh, and I had to cross my fingers that the few pictures and videos I saw did it justice. It’s made in Poland, a country known for its strong fishkeeping tradition, and it seems to me that its creator took some cues from Scandinavian designs. It’s the sleekest tank I’ve ever had – and the first one I set up was in 1962! There’s a clean look to it; nothing fussy. As far as I can tell, it’s very well-made, and the lighting arrangement is cleverer than a clever professor from the University Dept of Cleverness. The thin lid is so minimal that it has to be lifted with care, but a small price to pay for such a streamlined effect.

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It has one planting drawback; its depth, from front to back, is a bit less than 41cm. In fact, measured internally, its depth is only 38cm. This doesn’t allow much elbow room for dense planting. However, this also means that the tank’s footprint is room-friendly; it doesn’t poke out. [My last tank, a soft coral reef aquarium, was 151 cm long, and came out by 61 cm. Mutterings as to the “monstrous carbuncle” in the front room were to be occasionally heard, much to the consternation of my nervy Copperband Butterfly.]
 
Oh, this is nice to see. Turns out my folks (bless them) have bought me one of these for Christmas 😅 so I’m glad to hear they look alright. Certainly looks better than I’d have thought.

I’m planning to do a local tank with mine; something like a nice stickleback tank.

Looking forward to seeing what you do!
 
I have the 125 litre version of this tank, which I think is a tiny bit shallower. Agree it is nice and unobtrusive but requires some care to get a sense of depth. Curious to see how you get on with the lights - I've got both on for about 8 hours a day at the moment but am getting some algae so it might be too much?!
 
I have the 125 litre version of this tank, which I think is a tiny bit shallower. Agree it is nice and unobtrusive but requires some care to get a sense of depth. Curious to see how you get on with the lights - I've got both on for about 8 hours a day at the moment but am getting some algae so it might be too much?!
I've doubled up on the lights! I have two 7000k sunlight LED tubes, and two 9000K "plant" LED tubes. I've got two on for 11 hours, and the remaining two on for 8 hours. I suspect 11 hours is too long, but the tank is in the front room, and my other half is not keen on seeing a dark tank during the day. [Come to think of it, neither am I. We're both retired, so see the tank a good deal during the day.] As a result, and also because the tank has not yet settled, I do have thread algae. This I counter with the suction power of my trusty OXO Turkey Baster. Any other kinds of algae are being tackled by 3 Nerite snails, 4 Amano shrimps, and 9 Octocinclus catfish. I have a few floating plants; they're difficult to come by round here. I hope they start proliferating soon.

I'm not too fussed, yet, about the algae. I had 9 interminable months of a vile dinoflagellate invasion in my marine tank and almost shut the tank down, so thread algae doesn't keep me awake. [Black brush algae might, though - that really is unsightly.]
 
First planting: My local fish shop got in a large number of plants, knowing I wanted to fill up the tank, to crowd out any nuisance algae that might appear. I got pots of old favourites; Ludwigia Repens, Hygrophilia Difformis, Hygrophilia Corymbosa and Vallisneria Spiralis. I was disappointed there was no Hornwort, [Ceratophyllum species] but there you are. If I was doing this again, I would leave out the Vallisneria, in favour of something else quick-growing. Yes, Vallis is reliable, but I’d forgotten that it’s a rosette plant, not a stem plant, and the Hygrophilia and Ludwigia have grown much more quickly.

There’s also an issue with the Hygrophilia Corymbosa, an unexpected one. In the 1980s and 1990s, Giant Vallis and Hygrophilia Corymbosa were the two most reliable plants I grew. The Giant Vallis would be a nuisance in my present tank, but I thought the Hygrophilia Corymbosa would be ideal. Now, it has grown very stoutly in the past 5 weeks, but it’s bushed rather than stretched for the surface. Perhaps, I thought, it’s reacting to the strong LED lighting; 2 x 17 watt 7000K and 2 x 17 watt 9000 tubes. It doesn’t need to go for the stronger light near the surface? However, I planted it in two places. One was in the far left corner, where my wood “island” obscured a good deal of the light. The Hygrophilia Corymbosa there behaved in the same way as the same plant under stronger lighting. Pondering this [I’m retired, so spend some time pondering…] I recalled a newish form of Hygrophilia Corymbosa – “Compact”. If I’m right, I suspect it was mis-labelled at the shop. I’ve moved both groups of this species nearer the front of the tank. It is, this issue notwithstanding, a remarkably handsome plant.


Second planting: With the faster-growing plants underway, I put in standard Java Ferns and Anubias Barteri on the wood roots. Again, my local fish shop got these in for me; unpotted ones, which had the advantage of already being sizeable. [It’s a bit like making money – if you want to make a large fortune, start with a large fortune.] To compensate for the Hygrophila Corymbosa probably being vertically challenged, I put in some Hygrophila Guanensis at the back.


Third [impulse] planting: My iron determination to stick with just these plants for the first six months soon went rusty. I spotted a beefy Echinodorus Ozelot being sold as simply”Green”, but which looked like a red variety to me – perhaps “Red Flame”. That’s gone into a central position with an eye to the future. I also put in an Alternanthera Cardinalis, already pleasingly red, just to see how it would cope under my lighting. Lastly, I succumbed to a good-looking slightly bronzy specimen of Cryptocoryne Moehlmanni. Although it’s probably a bit too early for crypts, I thought, let’s try one at the front, just for the hell of it. I put a root tab underneath it, and after about 4 weeks, it hasn’t melted.


Five weeks later, what’s gone right with the planting?: The initially-green ludwigia has amazed me the most; the group centrally placed, getting the most light, has gone red. The group at the far edge of the tank has gone bronze. Despite there being no CO2, both groups have put on vertical growth. The Hygrophila Corymbosa has strongly dense growth. The Hygrophilia Difformis got some thread algae on its lower leaves, but has recovered and its top growth is a vibrant green. The Java Fern is producing babies from the tips and undersides of its leaves. The Anubias Barteri is still static, but has resisted algae incursions.


What’s gone wrong with the planting?: Thread algae appeared fairly quickly on many plants, but I was able to suction a good deal of it off with my OXO Turkey Baster. Some of it I twirled off with a bristly pipe brush. My clean-up crew [more about this later] helped. Some of the Vallis and an Amazon Sword at the back lost leaves. Given that – being rosette plants - they needed to put roots down, this was not unexpected. The spider roots remained clean, again, because of the clean-up crew.


However: After about 3 weeks, the bulk of the thread algae simply vanished, much to my surprise. There are still bits and pieces on decaying leaves, but those I can snip away soon.

I spent between £70-£100 on these initial plants. This is not a small amount, especially given that I’d already spent about £80 on spider roots, and there was money for the substrate, too. However, my approach is that the initial planting is crucial, and I waited, and saved up for these plants. In the past, I would’ve spent my money on the fish, and then gradually added plants. Wrong! We now know better! This way I have a better chance of getting ahead of the algae. [I have bad memories of Anubias leaves surrounded with Black Beard Algae, one of the most vile of aquatic nuisances.]

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I think I may have duplicated one of these pics; still trying to get to grips with this new-fangled World Wide Webby tech. This last pic is about 4 weeks from the first planting.
 
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