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APT complete

Deano3

Member
Joined
8 Feb 2012
Messages
2,507
Hi everyone, i currently use AIO DIY ferts and am i thinking of trying the 2hr aquarist product to see if get any better colours or different results.

Is anyone using them and is there much difference from the complete to the zero ?

What would you advise and i havnt had time to properly look yet but is there a dry salts recipe for these products and has anyone made them up ?

Any help appreciated as i am terrible at the fert side of things, wanting to bring more colour and healthy plant growth.

Thanks dean
 
I used to use APT Complete, then I realised that I could save 50% by buying APT EI at the same price and using half the amount. :p

I'm currently dosing 1.2ml of APT EI a day, so a 500ml bottle will last more than a year, which is a cost I'm able to live with.
 
1642933503106.png


Correct the cost of the EI mix gives more 'bang per buck'
1642933693861.png


the complete cost per commercial fert list
1642933655259.png


The cost of using the APT range varies also as in some country's you have to pay more to get it imported as well, which was the one factor which could make using it quite a bit more expensive than other products.
(edit 32/1/2022) as incorrect valves for was posted for APT
)
 
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Thanks @Zeus 😊 , i thought would be on there, as i say i am wanting more colour and healthy plants so think of going this a try.

Can i ask what difference if from the APT range ? I was reading somewhere is a sort of lean dosing method os this correct.

Also will i say in what order to add the dry powders in the calculator as i wont have a clue.

Thanks dean
 
I've recently started using apt complete. About 2 weeks in now. Seems good so far, if I understood the fert calculator a bit better I'd have a go at copying it. But as I don't this was a safe choice.
 
Recientemente comencé a usar apt complete. Alrededor de 2 semanas en este momento. Parece bueno hasta ahora, si entendiera un poco mejor la calculadora de Fert, intentaría copiarla. Pero como no lo hago, esta fue una elección segura.
C
 
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I've recently started using apt complete. About 2 weeks in now. Seems good so far, if I understood the fert calculator a bit better I'd have a go at copying it. But as I don't this was a safe choice.
Knowing the parameters of this 7.2N,0.28P,15.2K,1,6Mg,0.2Fe, it's simple, you go to the Rotala calculator and that's it
 
Can i ask what difference if from the APT range ? I was reading somewhere is a sort of lean dosing method os this correct.
The Complete and the EI are just different levels of N P and Fe which may make a difference.

Also will i say in what order to add the dry powders in the calculator as i wont have a clue.
Add the Ascorbic acid and Potassium Sorbate first, then the other salts, There is an order esp when making a custom Trace DIY mix, it was something I was going to implement but never got round to it as we had enough to do as it was.

You can make a clone of APT by using the IFC calculator
Turns out we have an error on the release version and it gives the incorrect [NO3] for APT complete :oops::rolleyes:, we also have all the values for APT EI as the valve for Mg has been confirmed- so we can get that sorted as well as we wasnt happy to have it in the release version until we had a confirmed [Mg]
 
There is an order esp when making a custom Trace DIY mix
would you mind explaining more? i know you must add preservatives first, but is there a particular order you have to add the micro salts in?
 
The Complete and the EI are just different levels of N P and Fe which may make a difference.


Add the Ascorbic acid and Potassium Sorbate first, then the other salts, There is an order esp when making a custom Trace DIY mix, it was something I was going to implement but never got round to it as we had enough to do as it was.


Turns out we have an error on the release version and it gives the incorrect [NO3] for APT complete :oops::rolleyes:, we also have all the values for APT EI as the valve for Mg has been confirmed- so we can get that sorted as well as we wasnt happy to have it in the release version until we had a confirmed [Mg]
Thanks @Zeus. You have done a great job and when i get time when off on sunday i am going to make up a fresh batch.

Yeah i usuall add absorbic acid and potassium sorbate on my mix currently but after that as long as i add in order i already do hopefully be fine and good shake inbeetween.

Can i ask what one you recommend for a more sort of lean dosing what apt product and will it be to the recommend dose once made up ?

Thanks dean
 
is there a particular order you have to add the micro salts in?

The way I usually do it is to start with the Zinc compound first because if you haven’t acidified the mix correctly it will precipitate (looks like paper pulp, reacidifying the mix results in it oxidising and becomes plant unavailable), better to waste one compound than the whole lot. Manganese I do next as it’s generally the next heaviest mass of compound to add (even though it targets a higher ppm for the equivalent mass compared to the Zinc because if it’s Zinc Sulphate it’ll be a hydrate and thus extra water on board). I start working my way down the rest of the compounds by weight, for me next that would be Boric Acid, then Copper Sulphate, Molybdenum Sulphate and Nickel Sulphate. The last to go in is the Iron because it will change the colour of the liquid and mask any precipitate formation in the other compounds.

Should be a problem free experience!

:)
 
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The way I usually do it is to start with the Zinc compound first because if you haven’t acidified the mix correctly it will precipitate (looks like paper pulp, reacidifying the mix results in it oxidising and becomes plant unavailable), better to waste one compound than the whole lot. Manganese I do next as it’s generally the next heaviest mass of compound to add (even though it targets a higher ppm for the equivalent mass compared to the Zinc because if it’s Zinc Sulphate it’ll be a hydrate and thus extra water on board). I start working my way down the rest of the compounds by weight, for me next that would be Boric Acid, then Copper Sulphate, Molybdenum Sulphate and Nickel Sulphate. The last to go in is the Iron because it will change the colour of the liquid and mask any precipitate formation in the other compounds.

Should be a problem free experience!

:)
Cheers M8, you have supplied me with the mix order before, I will endeavour to get it added to the IFC👍
 
The way I usually do it is to start with the Zinc compound first because if you haven’t acidified the mix correctly it will precipitate (looks like paper pulp, reacidifying the mix results in it oxidising and becomes plant unavailable), better to waste one compound than the whole lot. Manganese I do next as it’s generally the next heaviest mass of compound to add (even though it targets a higher ppm for the equivalent mass compared to the Zinc because if it’s Zinc Sulphate it’ll be a hydrate and thus extra water on board). I start working my way down the rest of the compounds by weight, for me next that would be Boric Acid, then Copper Sulphate, Molybdenum Sulphate and Nickel Sulphate. The last to go in is the Iron because it will change the colour of the liquid and mask any precipitate formation in the other compounds.

Should be a problem free experience!

:)
Hi, I have Fe DTPA, Mn EDTA, Zn EDTA, Boric acid, Cu EDTA, ammonium molybdate and Nickel sulfate. because they are chelated, would you recommend a different order? or would the same order work. Thanks!
 
I would still do the same order, highest mass to lowest mass with Iron at the end. The Copper, Molybdenum and Nickel you will be making a concentrate first then dosing a part of that concentrate to the mixture as the weights involved are very small and dosing dry decreases accuracy (depending on scale sensitivity and accuracy) in specific targeting of values.

2E471110-F115-4499-80A7-669F19388008.jpeg


:)
 
View attachment 180542

Correct the cost of the EI mix gives more 'bang per buck'
View attachment 180546

the complete cost per commercial fert list
View attachment 180545

The cost of using the APT range varies also as in some country's you have to pay more to get it imported as well, which was the one factor which could make using it quite a bit more expensive than other products.
(edit 32/1/2022) as incorrect valves for was posted for APT
)
We have had the valves for APT complete and EI confirmed by D Wong as NO3 and PO4 on the products website and not Nitrogen and Phosphorus , there are some minor changes in the products ppms and a name change to boot, me and @Hanuman feel the changes are so minor (and was correct when we released the IFC), there is no need for an update at present
The latest ppms for the product can still be be used by not cloning and entering the valves manually, it will still be a clone 👍
 
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